Eaton APR48-3G 1.8kW Light Compact Charger PSU

After rethinking about it the hardware mod for amp change should be similare as for the voltage.

Just need to find the right track, plug a variable resistor et voilà !

By the way I wonder how was discovered the voltage hardware mod :?:
 
Possibly a stupid question considering the fans and all, but would it be possible or practical to pot an Eaton for added shock protection, water resistance, etc? Perhaps a complete conversation from active to passive cooling?
 
Hey guys, I just received my Eaton over UPS, wrapped in enough bubble wrap to survive a nuclear bomb. Even then, it was all askew:
1bDDc9Q.jpg


After opening it up, I found that this transformer was like this:
XXRRrUQ.jpg


It is possible to pop it back with a satisfying click though. Is it really a "pinned" part or have I been really unloved by the shipping gods?

Caring for my safety, hope you guys know more than me..
 
I have desoldered the component and it seems to be just a choke. The third "pin" is just holding it on the PCB. I have resoldered it and will test it later today..
 
Whoever tries that, don't. It will just blow the fuses. I wonder, does wnybody know if it is a three pin or a two pin component? I guess finding a replacement will be impossible.. Is it possible to "mcgyver" it though, I am not sure.

Maybe some of you have "meter reading guide" for testing what is bad with my Eaton?
 
Make sure you are careful when handling the PSU circuit board when out of the case. I got the shock of my life from the 300V (If I remember correctly) caps in the corner. The pins that are under the caps stuck into my finger. Even if you wear gloves it could poke through them.

I volt tested the caps after the shock and it was still sitting at 200 volts.

The power was off for at least a couple of minutes, I'm not sure how long they stay powered. I have read stories from people opening up computer PSU and getting shocked.
 
Offroader said:
Make sure you are careful when handling the PSU circuit board when out of the case. I got the shock of my life from the 300V caps in the corner. The pins that are under the caps stuck into my finger. Even if you wear gloves it could poke through them.

I volt tested the caps after the shock and it was still sitting at 200 volts.

The power was off for at least a couple of minutes, I'm not sure how long they stay powered. I have read stories from people opening up computer PSU and getting shocked.
Click to expand...

I've had only two shocks from big caps, were enough to teach me the lesson.. First time was a small PSU "brick", then a big PSU. Not repeating that again.

I wonder what should I check though.. My Eaton seems to just blow fuses nonstop. After few seconds, so I figure when the DC part kicks on?
 
Are you saying that this worked before you removed and re soldered the transformer?

Now it doesn't work?
 
Offroader said:
Are you saying that this worked before you removed and re soldered the transformer?

Now it doesn't work?
Click to expand...

No, I received it today. Bought it Used, tested and working. When I received it, seems like UPS delivery guys played football with it, it was all kinds of banged up with 10!!! layers of bubble wrap. Must have stomped on it or something.

I opened it by drilling out the rivets, to see the internal damage. This inductor was the only thing that I saw askew, so I unsoldered it to check if it is only a 2-pin component, it was. I resoldered it back, tried turning on the PSU.. click click went the fuses after a few seconds. New fuses - click, click again. It takes a few seconds and burns up. So I figure it's the DC part that burns up..

Hopefully there will be somebody who's more savvy with these Eatons than me. I am a bit bummed atm.
 
yeah, join the club. I had trouble with mine after trying to program it. I thought mine was toast also.

The unit does click on startup, that may not be the fuses making the noise but the unit itself. You still burnt the fuses out anyway.

Luckily I was saved by the help here and actually saved my PSU, spent a lot of time messing with that thing and got a good shock along the way. It was a good learning experience.
 
Offroader said:
yeah, join the club. I had trouble with mine after trying to program it. I thought mine was toast also.

The unit does click on startup, that may not be the fuses making the noise but the unit itself. You still burnt the fuses out anyway.

Luckily I was saved by the help here and actually saved my PSU, spent a lot of time messing with that thing and got a good shock along the way. It was a good learning experience.
Click to expand...

Problem is, mine doesn't even kick DC on. When it tries to kick the DC on, it blows the fuses. The silent click is definitely the fuses.. :( I am out of fuses now ofc... and quarantine... darn it...
 
Murloc992 said:
HK12K said:
Contact the seller and ask for a replacement?
Click to expand...

I don't think I qualify, because I have taken it apart. :/
Click to expand...

True, but if you show them the pics of how it arrived with the crushed exterior and tell them it didn't work when it arrived you wouldn't be lying. They might be willing to accommodate you, especially if they can recoup the value via a claim with the courier. It's not like you got it and decided to mod it and botched it and now want your money back. If the courier damaged it, they should eat it. Not you, nor the seller. But certainly not you as the purchaser. Fair is fair.
.
 
john61ct said:
Most require a claim be filed as soon as the damage is noticed.

Worth a shot though
Click to expand...

I understand that so I am giving it a 50/50. I really hoped it will work even after small "bashing", seems like it wasn't designed for this. :)
 
I need to know did you test this before you removed the transformer? Was it working at that point?

Then after you resoldered the transformer it stopped working?

Or did you only test it after you did the soldering?
 
To come back to the topic of the thread, I don't really understand why this topic does not interest more people.

I might miss something but EATON based chargers are by far the best option (with Flatpack from Eltek) from a quality & power / price point of view.

Is there any alternatives in this range of power or any drawback I missed ?

I would be happy to hear your thoughts !
 
Few need that much power, and only a tiny fraction are willing to tinker, or have ever even touched a soldering iron.
 
Ok, but it will act at least as CC charger no ?

Let's take an example.

I have a nominal 48V battery which voltage level is 40V.

Eaton is set for 50V max voltage and 10A max current.

What will happend when I connect both ? For me battery voltage at first should be around 40V and input current around 10A.

Then voltage will rise up until 50V.

After it reaches 50V, I don't bet what happend, I would think amp would decrease but without certainty.
 
Of course you can use these PSUs as chargers I've been doing it for almost 2 years now.

After it reaches 50V, I don't bet what happend, I would think amp would decrease but without certainty.
Click to expand...
If you set the charger to 50V it will charge the battery to 50V that's it. Once the Battery has reached the set voltage current stops flowing, it doesn't matter if I leave it connected for a day or a year...

Current cannot flow if the charger isn't constantly increasing the voltage.
 
It is not conducive to longevity to continue feeding CV stage (Absorb) current until amps trails to zero.

EndAmps at 0.05C is as high as I'd go, even at 4.05V

Terminating with an HVC so CC only stage is also just fine, at a low C-rate can get up to well over 90% capacity that way

and does not rely on human attention and memory.

Some failsafe mechanism should be there to handle the psu/charger circuitry failing.
 
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