RicoSwave
100 µW
Hello from Canada, I have an EVT 4000e, need to change the rear tyre, got any suggestions? Long term., id like to switch it to Lithium Ion batteries, what should i know? Has converting gotten cheaper?
EVT-4000e What could it cost to go brushless?
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RicoSwave
100 µW
I have an evt 4000 with +-1400kms. I've changed the batteries recently, but its been in the garage for years and noticed the rear wheel is flat. It's tubeless and so I need to remove the whole thing...Is it worth it to just change the tyre, should I look into going brushless? Whats the cost? Anyone in Montreal, Quebec?
Do you just want the same capability, or do you want more speed or torque or new features, etc?
If you don't need anything to be different, it's not worth the cost to change the motor, since you have to change out at minimum the controller and motor and wiring between them. If there is a display or control panel (usually on hte handlebars) you may have to replace that, too, if it communicates with the controller or is connected to it or the motor. It's likely the throttle and brake levers will still work with the new controller, but if it's a potentiometer throttle you may have to change the settings in the controller for throttle start/end value, etc. (if it can't do that you may need a new hall type throttle).
If you do want something to be different, then specify what that (those) thing(s) is (are) and we can see what it might take to do that.
If you don't need anything to be different, it's not worth the cost to change the motor, since you have to change out at minimum the controller and motor and wiring between them. If there is a display or control panel (usually on hte handlebars) you may have to replace that, too, if it communicates with the controller or is connected to it or the motor. It's likely the throttle and brake levers will still work with the new controller, but if it's a potentiometer throttle you may have to change the settings in the controller for throttle start/end value, etc. (if it can't do that you may need a new hall type throttle).
If you do want something to be different, then specify what that (those) thing(s) is (are) and we can see what it might take to do that.
RicoSwave
100 µW
Well, ideally, i would like more range, and faster... I don't have the Lithium model. (Also, I fixed the tyre issue since i posted...)
Since we don't know how much range you have, or how much you want, or how fast it goes now under the specific riding conditons you have there, or how fast you want to go, we'll need more info.
For us to help you find the right things to do those, you'll have to specify the actual speed and range you want, and the riding conditions you have there (terrain, hill slope & length if any, wind, road, etc) and your riding style (gradual acceleration, wheelie-popping, in-traffic riding, long highway journeys, etc), along with the approximate total weight of you, the bike, and anything you carry with you.
Then these can be put into simulators like those at ebikes.ca to see how much power it will actually take to do that, at minimum, and then things can be found to do that job.
Without that info, I can simply suggest that you need a controller, motor, and battery that can supply higher total power than you have now (however much that is). The battery should probably be higher voltage, too, to help with higher speeds. More range means more Wh, so higher voltage will help with that as well, for the same Ah.
QSMotors makes many motor types, so it is highly likely they have one that will fit the bike, and a controller to run it.
A good battery seller is harder to find, but there have been some people using Amorge with success
Search results for query: amorge
endless-sphere.com
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RicoSwave
100 µW
Ok, well, considering I live in Montreal and there is the Mont-Royal in the middle, Its quite a big incline up and then down...On a full charge I'd go up and down the incline in power mode (distance of about 10-12kms each way) and barely made it back if i didn't charge again... if Google is a good indicator, it says its a "moderate incline" of 275 feet up and then 360 feet down and then in reverse.. so total 25- 30 kms incline included. my speed going down hill was easy 50km/h to 65 km/hr, going up was 30-40km/h max at first and on top like 20km/hr till i reached the top which i think is not great...I believe that if i went on a flat surface, the scooter would go up to 50km range in eco and 30 in power mode...
If you don't know the slope you can measure it with various phone apps. Knowing the slope, weight, and speed is required to determine power required to do the work.
So far there isn't any of the required info to calculate what power you need to do what you want it to do. All we have so far is just info on how it already performs for you on an unknown slope with unknown weight.
If you prefer not to state the required info, you can always just go directly to the simulator at ebikes.ca or other online calculators, and input the info directly to get your power needs. Then you can use that to research the parts required to do it.
So far there isn't any of the required info to calculate what power you need to do what you want it to do. All we have so far is just info on how it already performs for you on an unknown slope with unknown weight.
If you prefer not to state the required info, you can always just go directly to the simulator at ebikes.ca or other online calculators, and input the info directly to get your power needs. Then you can use that to research the parts required to do it.
RicoSwave
100 µW
Thanks for you reply, I weigh 180lbs and the bike and batteries weigh 280lbs. it is an evt 4000 e, and uses 4 Sealed Lead Acid Long WP50-12NE, so i guess the fact that i got that far is pretty good...just wish i could get further on a charge and faster. I thought that switching batteries to lithium in 2023 might be cheaper and easier, or maybe a few tweeks by knowledgeable people here might be helpuful... so far thanks for all your input btwIf you don't know the slope you can measure it with various phone apps. Knowing the slope, weight, and speed is required to determine power required to do the work.
So far there isn't any of the required info to calculate what power you need to do what you want it to do. All we have so far is just info on how it already performs for you on an unknown slope with unknown weight.
If you prefer not to state the required info, you can always just go directly to the simulator at ebikes.ca or other online calculators, and input the info directly to get your power needs. Then you can use that to research the parts required to do it.
That is one of the required pieces of info.
Once you decide how far you need to go, and how fast you need to go at the fastest, and what speed you need to go up what worst-case slope, you can then take that and the total weight to the calculators or simulators to find out what it takes to do what you want.
Cheaper and easier than what?
Not really many tweaks you can do for what you've described so far, beyond the things you can do for any vehicle, some of which you may already be doing:
For instance, to get more range you can:
--go slower
--accelerate less quickly
--make the whole bike and yourself more aerodynamic, for instance by building a full fairing for it such as those by Craig Vedder (lots of info around the web on those).
--ride only on flat ground, avoiding any slopes you can
--use efficient tires fully aired up
--use a smaller diameter tire on the drive wheel for better torque (but lower speed)
To get more speed, the third thru fifth apply, plus using a larger diameter tire on the drive wheel for better speed (but lower torque)
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AussieRider
1 kW
You can get a 50ah 48v lithium battery with charger for reasonable cost on line that's much smaller & lighter than the lead batts. I shed about 50 kg in my 168 & had room for the charger in the batt compartment (the 168 doesn't have under seat storage). A simple wiring harness with whatever plug the batt has, mine came with XT90 , at one end and 2 Anderson's, one with just the positive & the other with just the negative on the other end. Check the 4 Anderson's on the scooter & find the first & last, one with wires running to the the controller. If you can't work out first & last, use an ohm meter on pin 1 of the scooter's charge plug to find the first & pin 5 for the last.
Hopefully this makes sense to you.
BTW, is the big main cale of the controller silver or black?
Silver is a 45km/h unit & black is 60km/h.
I wouldn't bother changing to brushless, just open the motor about every 3,000km & blow out the brush dust with compressed air. Wear a dust mask.
AussieRider
Hopefully this makes sense to you.
BTW, is the big main cale of the controller silver or black?
Silver is a 45km/h unit & black is 60km/h.
I wouldn't bother changing to brushless, just open the motor about every 3,000km & blow out the brush dust with compressed air. Wear a dust mask.
AussieRider
RicoSwave
100 µW
It’s black… it goes to 55-60 on flat surfaces. I have the same type of connectors as you. I labeled 1 to 4 thinking the bottom front was 4 then 3 and so on…I found this online too, I wonder if I can tweak it to go faster…mine seems to have a wire going where he’s saying to switch out too. I’m gonna spend my winter trying to make this scooter like new again.
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AussieRider
1 kW
Interesting. I checked my spare controller & none of them have this. Maybe it's on the brushless or lithium variants but I doubt it. Why would a manufacturer make a bike speed limit compliant then put such a blatant, obvious de-legalise switch on it? As we say in Oz, sound like a Furphy.
Although. I did find a blue pot on the PCB that adjusts throttle response but nothing for speed. Not that easy mate.
AussieRider
Although. I did find a blue pot on the PCB that adjusts throttle response but nothing for speed. Not that easy mate.
AussieRider
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