Goldenmotor Hall Sensor Question

[Pete1961]

Hi All,
New guy here, have a golden HBM 36 brushless, fried the controller on a long hill & am trying to determine if the motor is still OK. Have 0.4 ohm res reading across any two of the three phase wires & inf. to the casing. took cover off motor - there is no sign or smell of burning so think main windings OK, & reassembled motor.
Hall sensors: Put 5v dc across red & black (observing polarity) put meter probes across black & the three signal wires in turn
green = 0.01 to 0.04 volts as the wheel is moved slowly throu 60 degrees. blue exactly as green. Yellow 0.04 to 0.1 volts at 60 degree peaks (have verified meter on correct scale by putting it across a torch cell, reading confirms)
Have seen vid on youtube 'testing hall sensors' but he seemed to be getting higher peak readings, just want to know what is typical for these values

The HBM 36 is a model now discontinued by golden island as they seem to have a new range. I was running it with the stock
(shenzhen ???) controller on 36v SLA. Worked well for over a year. Am considering either replace hall sensors or a sensorless controller as I need a new controller anyway. One of the failings of the golden controller vs xlyte's was said to be that the former had no heat sensing shutdown in it, while the latter did, does anyone know if this has been addressed in the golden/shenzhen units?
Think phase wires just beyond controller out connector overheated & caused a short frying controller, don't know what effect this may have had on hall system, any advice greatfully received
Pete

 

[ZapPat]

Hi All,
New guy here, have a golden HBM 36 brushless, fried the controller on a long hill & am trying to determine if the motor is still OK. Have 0.4 ohm res reading across any two of the three phase wires & inf. to the casing. took cover off motor - there is no sign or smell of burning so think main windings OK, & reassembled motor.
Hall sensors: Put 5v dc across red & black (observing polarity) put meter probes across black & the three signal wires in turn
green = 0.01 to 0.04 volts as the wheel is moved slowly throu 60 degrees. blue exactly as green. Yellow 0.04 to 0.1 volts at 60 degree peaks (have verified meter on correct scale by putting it across a torch cell, reading confirms)
Have seen vid on youtube 'testing hall sensors' but he seemed to be getting higher peak readings, just want to know what is typical for these values

The HBM 36 is a model now discontinued by golden island as they seem to have a new range. I was running it with the stock
(shenzhen ???) controller on 36v SLA. Worked well for over a year. Am considering either replace hall sensors or a sensorless controller as I need a new controller anyway. One of the failings of the golden controller vs xlyte's was said to be that the former had no heat sensing shutdown in it, while the latter did, does anyone know if this has been addressed in the golden/shenzhen units?
Think phase wires just beyond controller out connector overheated & caused a short frying controller, don't know what effect this may have had on hall system, any advice greatfully received
Pete

Pete - You need to use pull-up resistors when checking hall sensors. This means connecting a 10kohm or so resistor between the hall output and the +5V line while testing it. You should now be getting readings of either close to 0V or close to 4-5V from the hall sensor. They should be fine in theory.

 

[rkosiorek]

easiest way is to use a 9V battery with a 1K resistor. use the 9V battery to supply power to the Hall sensor + and -. then connect the 1K resistor between the 9V+ and the Hall sensor output.

of course it would be totally silly to suggest using the SEARCH function within this very forum to find out that there is a "Motor Hall Sensor and Harness Replacement" thread that includes tips on how to Test and replace the hall sensors.

has pictures schematics and everything.

http://www.endless-sphere.com/forum...4626&start=0&st=0&sk=t&sd=a&hilit=hall+tester

rick

 

[Pete1961]

Thanks ZapPat & Rick,
Have added the pull up resistor readings now as they should be. Had seen video & thread but did not get the bit about pull up resistors (I am not an electronics guy) also had researched on goldenmotor forum but some ideas seemed to contradict.
Main thing is I have learned something here. Will try & get controller from e-crazyman, bought a charger off him. At least I now know motor ok. Pete

 

[philf]

Heya Pete...

Just to save you some aggro...

When you get your e-crazyman controller (note that he's only shipping the XC846-based units now), you'll find that the connectors are the same as the GM one - except that the brake and throttle connectors are the wrong sex. No worries if your old controller is fried - just re-use the connectors from it.

The other thing you'll find is that the wiring isn't quite the same. The hall and phase wires are slightly different. For the GM Motor, you'll need to swap blue and yellow on both the hall sensor connector and the phase wires. My phase wires are individual (with bullet connectors) instead of the old GM design with a 3 blade "Molex-like" connector, so I left the motor wiring alone and just stuck coloured tape on the controller end to remind me I physically swapped the blue and yellow wires in the controller-end hall connector, too. This allows me to switch between the e-crazyman and the GM controller without changing anything.

Hope that's easy to follow. I'd be happy to take a picture