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handlebar rise or longer goose neck?

ptegler

10 µW
Joined
Apr 9, 2023
Messages
5
Location
Maryland
which is the safer configuration, installing a taller gooseneck, or installing riser handlebars to raise the hand position?

I understand which is simpler to swap, but I'm having a problem with finding higher rise handlebars that leave enough space for grips, throttle, brakes etc before the bends
Hence the initial question tia
 
Safer in which aspect?
Safer in terms of which has better rigidity? Which affords greater control? Which is more comfortable in case of a frontal wipeout?
 
BMX bars and stem are probably the most rugged, secure, and structurally sound option for you.

Pedicabbers in my area who contend with the same bar crowding issue you describe seem to get on well with a CW style handlebar, which has a constant diameter all the way across the top, and allows you to attach components right up to the weld, as well as on the center section. I've used this bar on a few of my own bikes, and it does what it looks like it will do.


31CBCjVgeoL._AC_UF1000,1000_QL80_FMwebp_.jpg


P.S. - if you want to talk to bike-savvy people without making them wince, it's "handlebar stem" or just "stem", not gooseneck. Gooseneck is for people who don't know that bikes can be made out of aluminum, and probably haven't ridden one in over forty years.
 
I'm having a problem with finding higher rise handlebars that leave enough space for grips, throttle, brakes etc before the bends
I've been using this handlebar extender to help with that here:

Things I don't touch during the ride get banished to that like the display, headlight, and phone mount. I've even seen people put speakers and rear view video monitors on them.
 
BMX bars and stem are probably the most rugged, secure, and structurally sound option for you.

Pedicabbers in my area who contend with the same bar crowding issue you describe seem to get on well with a CW style handlebar, which has a constant diameter all the way across the top, and allows you to attach components right up to the weld, as well as on the center section. I've used this bar on a few of my own bikes, and it does what it looks like it will do.


31CBCjVgeoL._AC_UF1000,1000_QL80_FMwebp_.jpg


P.S. - if you want to talk to bike-savvy people without making them wince, it's "handlebar stem" or just "stem", not gooseneck. Gooseneck is for people who don't know that bikes can be made out of aluminum, and probably haven't ridden one in over forty years.
ha... to me 'stems' for bikes, have two clamps, one each end. ... one for the fork down tube and the other end the handlebars. Goosenecks are as they are called because of there neck shapes. New school, old school..... "new school has lost the ability to learn, ...only regurgitate, imitate. (Groucho Marx quoting W.C fields) (pun intended)
I'd considered those very bars!... ended up with a 320mm gooseneck :)
thanks everyone for all your inputs. good stuff
 
Depending on the frame you use some older bmx necks and bars are smaller and not easily compatible, I have sleeved bars before and ran bolts thru to overcome this delimma. Beware raising a neck so high it can snap with the fork tube. A larger front wheel and smaller rear wheel can aid the position, and bmx parts are built for abuse. Those CW Racing bars are tall and tough if you can find them. A layback seatpost built for mountain bikes which are bigger than bmx posts would be a cool invention. I sleeved my bmx bars with aluminum kids scooter tubing, FYI, but its a jimmy rig.
 
Aging here...recent e-bike conversions for the ol' lady and I. Seems 'city bike' better defines our configurations these days. Getting close to these old bones not willing chance the old stump jumping days. Beside I don't want to here it from the wife when/if i go down. (never hear the end of it) ;) thanks all
 
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