Help me save this motor with a new setup!

[sketchism]

Hey guys!

OK, so i blew the halls in the leaf style motor on my main bike (i replaced the guts of that motor now that bike is going great again)

Now have an almost new 1000/1500W hub and rim by itself that i want to use for a new build

I'm based in Australia and i'm looking for a sensorless controller, throttle and battery in the best combination to get as much power from this motor as cheaply as possible.

i will be removing the hall wires and upgrading the phase wires in the hub ad well as setting it up for oil cooling so i think i can push 2000w through it as long as i don't burn it out on hills (it might be in an 80's style 20" bmx as well for the fun of it) pics attached.

The question is,
A) does anyone know of a 2000w 48V sensorless controller & throttle setup, all i can find are these (http://goldenmotorcz.en.made-in-china.com/product/vSqxGMPdXpWa/China-48V-2000W-BLDC-Motor-Controller-with-CE-Certificate.html (would this be ok for a bike? how would i set it up with a throttle? they have replied and can ship one today) and http://kellycontroller.com/ksl4810024v-48v100asensorless-bldc-controller-p-660.html)

B) what would the most appropriate battery be for 2000w at 48V, i guess it would need a nom discharge of 40A correct? ~10AH is ok for this project

C) do i need an lcd/cycle analyst for a sensorless controller i want to keep this setup as simple as possible

thanks for your help guys!

 

[dogman dan]

I'd just fix the halls.

But then nothing wrong with your next controller running sensored or sensorless. Except for money. Slap a cheap sensored controller on it.

 

[Drunkskunk]

You could hit eBay for a cheap sensorless controller. I wouldn't put any more money into it than that, because sensorless at 2000 watts will suck. hard. You need sensors for the motor to run smoothly on a 48v 40A controller.

The good news is hall sensors are like $1, and just glued in. changing them is easy.

 

[sketchism]

Thanks guys


I ordered one of these with sensored/sensorless options and a set of SS411A (i hope these are correct) Halls as well so i think ill do both.
( http://goldenmotorcz.en.made-in-china.com/product/xMwJGlvOABUq/China-48V-2000W-BLDC-Motor-Controller.html )

(Q) is that controller ok?


The main reasons I was going to ditch the halls is so i could go a much thicker gauge wire thru the hub, oil cool it and run it at 66V with 3 X 22.2V 10Ah LiPos

( i know theres no BMS but i have dealt with batteries a lot from RC, as long as 66v isn't too much for this controller?)

i've never run sensorless, is it that clunky?

 

[John in CR]

At higher power, ie enough to need cooling mods, sensorless controllers SUCK. I have some moderately high power controllers that do sensored/sensorless by just unplugging the hall connector to go sensorless, and sensorless operation is only good for hobbling home in the event of a hall or hall wire failure.

Like Dogman said, fix the halls. If you got a motor hot enough to create a hall failure, then the wiring harness is now suspect and needs replacing. You may get lucky and find that it's not even a hall problem, but a shorted hall wire in the axle.

 

[sketchism]

Thanks guys, you've inspired me to order a set of halls and i will install them when they arrive next week hopefully, the controller has both modes so it's more of a question of how much voltage i can run thought it now, it's rated for 60Vmax but would 66.6V from 3 22.2V Lipos be ok without any controller mods?