Hiding the controller and wires- suggestions needed!

[majornelson]

I'm building out a traditional steel road bike with a small rear hub motor (Q100CST) with a small sine wave controller and PAS only. I bought the mounting box for the controller and also a small Lunar battery (with seat bag) that will go under the rear seat.

Mounting box is here:
http://www.greenbikekit.com/controller-case.html

The case will mount on my seat tube and I'm looking for some inspiration on how to hide the gaggle of wires and connectors that come from the controller or a different approach to concealing both the controller and cables. My only inputs to the controller will be battery, motor (power and hall sensor), one brake cutoff, LCD display,one speed sensor and the PAS sensor. I'll cut the additional connections.

Questions:

1) Are there any other preferred connectors to replace the standard ones on the controller?
2) Should I just cut and solder the connections (I hate soldering and suck at it)? Or use some other type of smaller connectors? For example the hall sensors are only 22 ga but the connector is huge.
3) I've used a frame bag recently to hide all but I'm after a more traditional (vs. classic) solution for this bike as it has drops, etc. Any other ingenious ways to hide the controller and connectors? I'm not afraid to cut and have built a number of bikes. But I've always shied away from making permanent connections to the controller from the various parts.

My last build with the frame bag (city style bike with a more classic design) but I'm looking for something different this time...
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=84433&start=25

Pictures of the case and controller attached.

Any ideas appreciated!

Lee

 

[docw009]

You can't jam the connectors into the controller box?

I would get rid of the cruise connector, making sure it's disabled. If the brake grip connector is high level, I'd get rid of it too. Also lose the horn connector. Now it should fit,

[strike]BMSbattery sells this waterproof connector controller kit.[/strike]This came with my fatbike Bafang hubmotor from CNEbikes.com. It's pretty clean. Two wires for the battery. Two JST connectors for speed sensor and PAS sensor. A round Bafang motor connector, and a round connector that supports the handlebar controls (two brakes, throttle, and LCD- unit). I used this unit for a bit. [strike]However, it's sensorless, and unless ordered with something else, the shipping is horrible.[/strike] It only supported 36 volts though, and I wanted more battery compatibilty,



I wish more controllers were simplified like the above. I bought some Bafang cable fragments with the molded male/female connectors, and have replaced the 5-hall and 3 phase wires on two other controllers, and two motors with a round cable system. Lots of splicing. In hindsight, next time I'll run the round cable into the controller and make the splices inside the box. Safer that way.

 

[motomech]

I had some of those controller "boxes", didn't care much for them. They don't go together well and the frame mounting wasn't much good either.

I just made a stealth water bottle battery using a single wall Stanley thermos, but it could be used to hide a controller;

If you are worried about heat build-up, the bottom could be "Swiss-cheesed", or even removed;

Other things I do for stealth are;
Start w/ a dark bike.
Use black wires only.
Cover any connectors that are not black w/ blk. shrink-fit tubing.
I always cut the wires to length and use 4 mm bullet connectors for power wires, 3,5 mm bullets for the phases and jxt's for most everything else.For jst/jxt's I use charge lead extensions(for example; a 4S extension, which has 5 wires, for the Halls).
The wiring can be directly soldered to the controller, elimitnating all the connectors there, but I wouldn't recommend it until the bike has been test rode and everything works to satisfaction.

 

[dogman dan]

http://www.ebikes.ca/shop/electric-bicycle-parts/connectors/conbag.html

You can get smaller connectors there, that can fit inside the box with a bit shorter wire. Hard to crimp good for me,, so I tend to crimp careful, then put a tiny spot of solder on them. Tiny, because otherwise they won't fit in the housing.

Likely easier to make permanent soldered connections.

Another thing you can do,, make the halls and throttle connections, then just put heat shrink over the individual blade connectors. You don't have to use the scooter type housings.

 

[majornelson]

Thanks to all! I've ordered smaller connectors and will see what works best.