Hubzilla Cromotor V2 information
- Thread starter zombiess
- Start date
zombiess said:
Yes I used the 3 jaw puller to get the bearing off. I should have used a socket to get the breaking back in the cover I just put the bearing in the freezer and the cover in the oven set to 170 F and pounded it in with a rubber mallet, it went in pretty easily.
I cant get the cover back on the motor. Should I try just pounding on the cover or should i try the freezer and oven thing at the same time also. do you pound on the disc brake spacer only?
The problem I see with putting the motor in the freezer is that when it comes back to room temp it is wet.
zombiess
10 MW
So your bearing is already installed and the cover is giving you problems? I've never had a problem installing the cover if the bearing is already in place. In most cases I just push it on by hand while slightly wiggling it back and forth and it goes on easily. Getting the bearing on is usually the hardest part. Keep in mind that I am not very good doing things mechanically, I understand them in theory but am not very good at the actual task.
When I use a rubber mallet I just hold on one side by hand and beat on the opposite side with the mallet. Makes a hell of a racket, but I just did one a few days ago and start to finish the entire job took 20mins. I hated every minute of it too since it really kills my back sitting on the floor.
When I use a rubber mallet I just hold on one side by hand and beat on the opposite side with the mallet. Makes a hell of a racket, but I just did one a few days ago and start to finish the entire job took 20mins. I hated every minute of it too since it really kills my back sitting on the floor.
Yes I have the bearing in the cover. From what I understand you are using the mallet to get the bearing in the cover?
My problem is I can not get the cover on the motor, it gets stuck. The cover gets stuck when there is a 3/8th of an inch gap in between the cover and the where it screws into the magnet ring. Is this where you hammer on the cover?
my bearing is in the cover but I can not install the cover on the motor. Once the bearing hits the lip where the axle gets slighting larger it gets caught up.
My problem is I can not get the cover on the motor, it gets stuck. The cover gets stuck when there is a 3/8th of an inch gap in between the cover and the where it screws into the magnet ring. Is this where you hammer on the cover?
my bearing is in the cover but I can not install the cover on the motor. Once the bearing hits the lip where the axle gets slighting larger it gets caught up.
zombiess
10 MW
No, I usually install the bearing on the axle, then just press the cover on by hand. If the bearing comes out in the cover as it often does it makes installation a bit more difficult, but still pretty easy, I just beat on it with the rubber mallet. It's not going to hurt the cover. I beat the living crap out of my covers on install and not so much as a scratch on them.
Your other option is a large socket/pipe. Put it on top of the cover and hammer away, the bearing will seat. I have used a handle from a floor jack for this.
Yes, you can usually press the cover with bearing on by hand until there is around 0.5" gap which is what I do, then it's "hammer time"
Your other option is a large socket/pipe. Put it on top of the cover and hammer away, the bearing will seat. I have used a handle from a floor jack for this.
Yes, you can usually press the cover with bearing on by hand until there is around 0.5" gap which is what I do, then it's "hammer time"
zombiess
10 MW
Scott said:
Good idea to not do it at night lol. Sounds like someone ringing a fight bell at a boxing match it you don't hold your hand on the opposite side you are hammering. You should hold it like that and squeeze while banging away and rotate the cover every few whacks. It will go in with a min of 2 of this. Once there is only a small gap left less than 0.25" you can use the bolts to pull the cover the Res of the way on, just use a torque star pattern and go slow. Then when its almost tight. Hammer time again. This is a great exercise to during if you are frustrated or upset since it involves lots of noise, a big effin.hammer and you get to fix something vs dearly it.
Found myself referencing this thread, plus a second thread, a lot, so I thought I'd cross-link them.
"8.4KG CROMOTOR & COMPARISON OF V1,V2,V3"
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=55211
"The Unofficial 'CroMotor' Owners Tech-Tips Thread" 17 pages
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=33831
"8.4KG CROMOTOR & COMPARISON OF V1,V2,V3"
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=55211
"The Unofficial 'CroMotor' Owners Tech-Tips Thread" 17 pages
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=33831
Long story short unless you have tons of batteries the position of your temperature sensor (top or bottom of motor) does not matter if it is on the windings.
While I replaced the hall sensors in my motor I added another temperature sensor to the top of the motor because without knowing it I added my first one to the bottom of the motor near the hall sensors.
There is very little difference in temperature from the top and bottom of the motor. Most of the time the difference is less than 0.5°C. This was noticed while riding really hard at 90v 120A for 20 minutes with temps around 90°-100°C. After I let the motor sit for a few minutes the top of the motor was a 3°C higher than the bottom. But the motor was cooling off the whole time.
I have never had the problem of a motor heating up right after pushing it hard. If the temp is 90°C and I stop riding at 35-45 mph for 5 minutes the motor cools off it does NOT get hotter. This is just what I have experienced other people have had opposite results.
For Hall sensors I ordered 6 from Lyen here. I used M3 Scotch Weld DP 110 adhesive to hold the hall sensors in. The adhesive has a 8-11 minute working time (really 7-8 min) then it takes 20 minutes to set. Because of that this adhesive should be stronger at higher temps when compared to most 5 minute epoxies. This epoxy does not come with an applicator to push the plungers down, I just used a lego.
While I replaced the hall sensors in my motor I added another temperature sensor to the top of the motor because without knowing it I added my first one to the bottom of the motor near the hall sensors.
There is very little difference in temperature from the top and bottom of the motor. Most of the time the difference is less than 0.5°C. This was noticed while riding really hard at 90v 120A for 20 minutes with temps around 90°-100°C. After I let the motor sit for a few minutes the top of the motor was a 3°C higher than the bottom. But the motor was cooling off the whole time.
I have never had the problem of a motor heating up right after pushing it hard. If the temp is 90°C and I stop riding at 35-45 mph for 5 minutes the motor cools off it does NOT get hotter. This is just what I have experienced other people have had opposite results.
For Hall sensors I ordered 6 from Lyen here. I used M3 Scotch Weld DP 110 adhesive to hold the hall sensors in. The adhesive has a 8-11 minute working time (really 7-8 min) then it takes 20 minutes to set. Because of that this adhesive should be stronger at higher temps when compared to most 5 minute epoxies. This epoxy does not come with an applicator to push the plungers down, I just used a lego.
zombiess
10 MW
That's a better use for a leggo than having lay on the floor like a land mine waiting for someone to step on it lol.Scott said:
What happened to your hall sensors? The factory ones are rated for at least 120C. Honeywell SS41's are what I have used in the past on my 9C motor which had a wiring accident, they work on the Cromotor as well if they need replacing for some reason.
ridethelightning
1 MW
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Lego landmines are the worst!zombiess said:
My temperature sensor wires were soldered directly to the wires going to my CA without a connector. When I pulled my motor off the fix the dented rim I did not hook back up my temperature sensor and at that time I was running 126v (30s LiPO). I believe that the motor temp got to around 140°C or so. I'm not sure how easily that winding temperature will kill the hall sensors but when I went to ride my bike home the middle hall had died.
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