-
Howdy! we're looking for donations to finish custom knowledgebase software for this forum. Please see our Funding drive thread
Iacocca ebike
- Thread starter neoender
- Start date
dogman dan
1 PW
Look at the motor, if it says 36v on it, it is definitely worth $350 if it runs when a 12v battery is hooked to the wires. 24v ones are worth about $250. Your guess is good as mine on the value of the frame, but it is a pretty nice frame for an ebike in my opinion. I'd say frame alone is worth $100 to someone who is into ebikes. If there is no controller, just get one from ecrazyman or a scooter place. A 15-20 amp brushed is all you need, and a throttle.
On the battery, is the battery case even still there? If so, it has sla's inside it, and a built in charger. So you just open it up, and get some more sla's in the same size from b&b or some other reputable source. On my bike, I'm replacing the sla with nicads from ebikes-ca. The hole for the battery will fit a 36v 8ah pretty nice. I'll be carrying one 8 ah 24v pack in the frame, and another on a rear rack parallel connected so I'll have 16 ah of 24v. I'll have the same weight and double the range.
I really like mine, but at 24v it is a bit weak on the hills. Overvolting a 24v can be done, but I fried one that way last winter. At 36v on a 24v motor, you need to keep the rides real short. But the frame is great, and like I'm trying to, selling the motor so you can put a faster one on is a possiblility.
On the battery, is the battery case even still there? If so, it has sla's inside it, and a built in charger. So you just open it up, and get some more sla's in the same size from b&b or some other reputable source. On my bike, I'm replacing the sla with nicads from ebikes-ca. The hole for the battery will fit a 36v 8ah pretty nice. I'll be carrying one 8 ah 24v pack in the frame, and another on a rear rack parallel connected so I'll have 16 ah of 24v. I'll have the same weight and double the range.
I really like mine, but at 24v it is a bit weak on the hills. Overvolting a 24v can be done, but I fried one that way last winter. At 36v on a 24v motor, you need to keep the rides real short. But the frame is great, and like I'm trying to, selling the motor so you can put a faster one on is a possiblility.
yoyoman
1 kW
Does anyone know if the bike will fit on a car bike rack once the outer shell is removed? My bike rack is the kind with the two arms which the bike rests on. The arms need to go through the frame, so I'd like to strip off the shell.
I saw a really cheap one of craigslist today, and it'll be a bit hard to transport it home if I can't put it on my rack.
Also, the bike is listed as not working. Can someone tell me if there's an easy way to get access to the wires to connect to a battery. Obviously the value is in the motor and then the frame, but I'm definitely more interested in the motor. So, a 12V battery is sufficient to test a 36V motor? Heh, I have a few 12V batteries in my trunk right now ...
I saw a really cheap one of craigslist today, and it'll be a bit hard to transport it home if I can't put it on my rack.
Also, the bike is listed as not working. Can someone tell me if there's an easy way to get access to the wires to connect to a battery. Obviously the value is in the motor and then the frame, but I'm definitely more interested in the motor. So, a 12V battery is sufficient to test a 36V motor? Heh, I have a few 12V batteries in my trunk right now ...
deardancer3
10 kW
yoyoman said:
There is a little box on the left rear stay velcro-ed to the frame. open it up and you will see the heavy motor connector wires.
d
yoyoman
1 kW
Hmm, the seller wrote, "The battery was good and the motor stopped "
In that velcro'd box, what kind of battery connectors are there? If I disconnect them, can I easily connect them to the terminals of a battery? Just wondering if I'd have to bring alligator clips or something to connect from the bike wires to the battery.
In that velcro'd box, what kind of battery connectors are there? If I disconnect them, can I easily connect them to the terminals of a battery? Just wondering if I'd have to bring alligator clips or something to connect from the bike wires to the battery.
99.9 percent of the time, the motor is good. The weak spots on an evglobal are the battery terminals on the bike frame and on the battery pack, as well as the stock controller. The stock controlers didnt get cooled enought and they blow easy now that the parts inside are sometimes over 10 years old. As others have said, bring a 12 volt battery and on the rear triangle, you will find a set of power connectors. Open that up and send 12 volts to the motor. it may spin backwards and it may need a little help with your hand to get it started, but it will spin if its good.
As for the wiring on the frame, its all sort of cheap and has Controler specific plugs that will not match anything you can buy, short of a new evglobal controler (which you dont want anyway!!!)
what I did with my three is buy cheap (15 buck) razor 5 wire throttle controlers, then I spent 6 bucks more and got the light up twist throttle. I wired it up and away I go. Note that I did add a huge heatsink to the new controler. I really should cut some air holes in the "body" of the bike, but I just cant bring myself to do it.
If the bike does not come with the removable batter holder and charger, you can stuff the batteries in the bike, its not a big deal to fit the batteries in the frame.
one more thing about the evglobal is that the motor is loud. Its not as loud as a gas motor, but it very loud compared to a gearless motor....
I would be happy to help with any wiring or any other questions you have...
bob in phx...
As for the wiring on the frame, its all sort of cheap and has Controler specific plugs that will not match anything you can buy, short of a new evglobal controler (which you dont want anyway!!!)
what I did with my three is buy cheap (15 buck) razor 5 wire throttle controlers, then I spent 6 bucks more and got the light up twist throttle. I wired it up and away I go. Note that I did add a huge heatsink to the new controler. I really should cut some air holes in the "body" of the bike, but I just cant bring myself to do it.
If the bike does not come with the removable batter holder and charger, you can stuff the batteries in the bike, its not a big deal to fit the batteries in the frame.
one more thing about the evglobal is that the motor is loud. Its not as loud as a gas motor, but it very loud compared to a gearless motor....
I would be happy to help with any wiring or any other questions you have...
bob in phx...
yoyoman
1 kW
hmm, for $50, I don't have much to lose ... now, if I only had more room to put it!
dogman dan
1 PW
I don't think it will carry too good on a bike rack that has a hanger. I carried mine on a rack that had wheel loops but even then, I had to use a lot of bungees, since the racks clamps were too narrow to fit over the bikes plastic covers. It might carry on a regular rack with the covers off, but you'd have to relocate some stuff, horn, controller, etc that fits pretty nice there. All you need to test the motor is to hold the connectors to the wires, touching the wires to each wire, much like you'd do with voltmeter probes to check voltage. 12v won't spark much.
yoyoman
1 kW
cool. I just wanted to make sure the battery connectors didn't have heat shrink tubing all the way to the tip that would make testing a little more difficult.
gmouchawar
100 W
- Joined
- Mar 28, 2008
- Messages
- 105
I have carried mine many times on a rear trunk mounted rack. They are heavy. I lighten the load by removing the batteries and wheels.
Use a lot of bungies.
Excellent ebike. You will love it.
Let us know if you need help getting it going.
Use a lot of bungies.
Excellent ebike. You will love it.
Let us know if you need help getting it going.
yoyoman
1 kW
I didn't act fast enough, and it was already sold. thanks for the offer.
chet
100 W
Someday we may find them in a museum.
Similar threads
- Question