Kona Stinky build

[electraflyit]

My original ebike frame was an ebay ‘Special’ I built up, so I thought before I kill myself I’d better upgrade to a decent bike. I wanted a strong frame, good suspension and large hydraulic disk brakes. I found a well used but mechanically good Kona Stinky for the right price that had it all.
I wanted to be able to pedal along at a reasonable pace so I needed to remove the bash ring and replaced it with a 44 tooth chain ring. I also ordered an IRD 5 speed freewheel 11/32 to replace the old 14/28 original on the GM hub.

Build Parts:
Kona Stinky Down Hill, GM1000 Hub, Ping 48volt 20amp battery, 6 Fet programmable controller, CA , Multi switch, Marvic rim, SS spokes, IRD freewheel,
44 tooth chain ring, SRAM chain.



I was looking for a simple and clean layout.
I had a little fun trying to get clearance for the shifters with the throttle and multi switch.


Green momentary button(horn) – Regen/Brake
Red button(lights) – Cruise control
Blinker switch – Speed 1, 2 & 3 switch


I moulded up a Fibreglass battery box just big enough to fit the Ping 48v 20a.
The weight is on the border line for the beam mount. It’s rated at 10kg and I’m at about 12kg.
I think the FS frame will help take out any sharp loads on it (I hope)
I know….the seat….anyone know/recommend a comfier one.




Scoops for exhaust air.
I had a small glider mould so I just used it to make the two fiber glass scoops on top and front of the battery box.

View attachment 6
Jiffy box for all the connectors/connections and a mount for the ESC 6 fet (with updated fets). Marine quality circuit breaker, precharge button and Charge port.


Kept the wiring black and put the motor wires in black snake skin, sort of hides it pretty well.



Would have loved to have kept the Hydraulic rear brake but it was just to thick to fit.
The 200mm rotor was helpful in getting the calliper to fit…sort of…clearance from the disk to swing arm is 1 to 1.5mm and about the same for the calliper to the hub.
The screw on disk adaptor….that’s another story…#^^#*@%* threads*^%*$*(
I ground the Caliper back(hub side) and the caliper mount to get things to fit.



I had two 1/4'” steel torque arms that I repurposed/reshaped to fit the dropouts and lock in.
I have brand new IRD and Shimano(both better gearing and quality) freewheels that sit quietly in their boxes while I pulled apart the old one and, cleaned, regreased, shimmed and put it back on the hub ….. *(^%%($# …….GM threads on this motor aren’t standard. Two to three turns with the new freewheels then stop..., no, not cross threaded….no easy way out just had to put the old one back on.




My first wheel build, ended up really good…..until my first few rides. I built up a new rear wheel with a Marvic rim with 13/14 gauge SS spokes. I knew they would loosen up a bit…..but…..that much (a little buckle)?? Anyway their retightened now, just a bit worried with the amount of bend on the spokes coming out of the nipples. Maybe I should have done a radial (straight) pattern instead. YES/NO??

The maxis hookworms seem like a great tyre, they look good and you can really lay the bike over now….great cornering traction, handles more like a motorbike.

Next:
I’m in the process of building a FG mount for a GPS to sit on the bars.
Also waiting on some Lipos, only 14s 5amp, just to check them out, see how many I can get in the triangle, check out the charging and lifespan. Also a bit of backup on my long rides.

Eddie
TBC

 

[beast775]

nice build,i like those kona frames,maybe a few wire ties to the seat bars might reduce the stress on your batt box.but it looks good.

 

[tycreek]

I know….the seat….anyone know/recommend a comfier one.

Well, I've been through a few and I like my current seat so far... It's a relatively low end seat: Planet Bike 5020.

 

[electraflyit]

yep, like the look of that seat.
I feel a lot more confident now heading offroad with a bike I know that can take it.
It's also alot more stable. I'm only putting 2000w max though it at about 55km/h and it still feels good at this speed.
Did a 65km trip around the 'downs' yesterday and used 12.5A/hr, mostly at about 25 to 30km/h.
Eddie

 

[doc007]

nice build, how's the handling with all the weight back there? maybe i missed it, but what type of controller are you using?

 

[dogman dan]

Probobally handles bad compared to the stripped bike, just like my rear hub, ping on the back dirtbike. But once you adjust to it, not intolerable at all. I just lean into the bars a bit more, and the extra traction on the rear wheel can be handy in deep sand.

But for sure, that bike is crying for lipo in the frame for dirt riding. On the street, nothing wrong with it at all. Expect some seatpost and rack problems eventually. Put some wood, or a smaller diameter seatpost up that bikes seatpost if possible.

 

[boostjuice]

Nice fabrication work, however.....
You have one of the few Full suspension frames that has enough room in the frame triangle for a decent sized battery. By relocating the battery weight to this location it would greatly improve your handling. It would likely require a new battery enclosure, and perhaps a rearrangement of the cells within, but it is well worth it IMHO.

 

[SunCoaster]

So, do you press your blue pre-charge button before flipping the circuit breaker switch on?

I may duplicate that, thanks.

 

[electraflyit]

The controller is the EB206 with new fets & shunt soldered up a bit. I am keeping it at 40amps max for the pings sake.

I am looking at lipos in the triangle.... or even the ping...just have to pull it apart and rejig the cells....mmm maybe not.
The ping cost me $1000au so I think I'll leave it as is. It wont fit the triangle as is.

Yep, push the blue button in and hold while turning on the circuit breaker. I do it with one hand easly.

I don't mind the handling on the road, just use body weight to turn, more like a motorcycle.
But yes, it would be better in the middle and lower.
I do pedal all the time so anything in the triangle needs to be thin.

I'm waiting on Lipos at the moment. So if they work well I may use them for short comutes, and have the Ping to use in long trips.

Eddie

 

[Mark_A_W]

Your rack will break.
Or your seatpost will break.
If not, the frame will break.


Trust me I know


What boostjuice said: Put battery in frame.

You will go from a nice build, to a truly great build.

 

[deecanio]

i have to agree, although the box is well put together you could put all your gubbins in the triangle - thats what stinky's do best!!!!
will give you much better distributed weight, lower c of g.

D

 

[jmygann]

24" rear wheel ?

5 or 7 speed rear cassette ? smallest tooth on rear ? 14-16??

 

[deecanio]

looks like 26 front and rear to me.

 

[electraflyit]

Mark
I'm not banging the bike around to much and the suspension really takes out any big shunts on the beam rack. I check it all the time and no problems so far, but i will take on board your comments. Somebody mentioned stuffing something inside the seatpost as well.

My 14s 1p of Lipos just turned up so I am looking at how I can fit them now. Thinking ahead I will need at least 2p or maybe 3p, so just looking for the best arrangement in the future.

Yep 26" rim with a 14, would have loved to get the IRC on, it has an 11. Can only pedal to about 40km/hr max, more like 35km/hr lonbg term.

Eddie

 

[Mark_A_W]

I have a steel post fitted inside my seat post - because I broke a seat post.


That was good for a while.


Then the frame cracked....

 

[Drunkskunk]

We need an Electric Kona Stinky Team badge or something.
No, not really.

Nice bike. I love the build of that battery box, But... As others have said, get the batteries in the frame, or at the very least, strapped to the sides of the frame. Been there - done that with the tail rack. because of the extra high riding position, and the extra long travel suspension, a rear battery placement makes the Stinky handle like a drunken water buffilo on roller skates. Get the battery between the suspension points, and it will handle like a heavy version of it's unpowered self.

 

[Microbatman]

How is the bike holding up?
Specifically how well have the dropouts and custom torque plates/arms held up?
They looked great.
Reson I am asking is that I am looking around at Kona Stinkys.
I need to decide if I buy a Stinky with or without modular dropouts?
Modualr dropouts are 2008 2009 2010 models. All others are not.
A modular dropout is one that is removable. So if I go modular then I can have someone machine/make the dropout into a torque arm.
Here is a moduar dropout
http://cgi.ebay.com/derailleur-hanger-KONA-Coil-air-Coiler-Stinky-Stab-/140479076583?pt=Cycling_Parts_Accessories&hash=item20b53498e7

If yours are holding up fine then I may go non modualar.
Who made your torque plates? Will they do it again for someone else like me?