Kuberg freerider owners look here if you don't like fire.

Ianhill

Ianhill

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Sep 25, 2015
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Kuberg freerider uses a 500w charger on a xlr barrel connector, now when everything is new a shiny that's the limit of its spec but when that connector gets oxidized with ages no matter how careful you are it will begin to get warm.
Took my bike off charge and burnt my fingerprints off I was like that's not normal so I had an inspection and came across this melted connector after doing the math I concluded it's piss pour choice
IMG_20200612_011850931.jpg
I done a bit of browsing and found Anderson powerpole connectors in a small enough size with housing to replace the existing jobby this is a picture of me half way through, I needed to make an extra plate to cover up the existing holes.
IMG_20200612_012227607.jpg
While the battery was out I had a look at the batterys output terminals from the controller they are Anderson power poles from the factory I not checked the rating on these yet but the connection again is shit what a mess bare wire twisted up and not all is even in the connector considering this is a factory bike never been altered just a joke.
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Anderson power poles are normally crimped. But, I believe you won’t feed enough current to melt the solder anyway.

Good that you found the problem before it started a fire.
 
MadRhino said:
Anderson power poles are normally crimped. But, I believe you won’t feed enough current to melt the solder anyway.

Good that you found the problem before it started a fire.
Click to expand...
:oops: read bk through i didn't say solder is that from the 3rd pic that's factory connector to a 12kw controller :roll:
I should have stated that i crimp them then flood from the top with solder only a bit it takes to wet the joint up secure it solidly , heat sleeve and good to go.
 
Not sure that would have caused a fire, but good catch either way! You never really know

Do you have any pics of the inside of the Kuberg battery? Curious what chemistry/cell type/config
 
Could have started a fire, if you put your charger on top of your pile of newspaper to recycle. Or carpet.

Otherwise, its the bms failure on your battery that burns your house down. Charge or store that thing outside is what I do now.

At the very least, put that charger on a non flammable surface.
 
Since reading your experience dogman I changed my habits and only charge in my shed away from other objects.

The battery has 130 vtc3 cells 13s 10p, I don't think it would have got to the cells but its definalty a flash point on the charger cable until a short cuts power and the bike is dead to the world so I was damn close to needing a bms by looks I just saved my arse.

Job complete now, the connector looks like its on the wonk but when the battery is installed the charge socket is then level.
IMG_20200613_000355758.jpg
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Had a look at the Anderson powerpole on the output of the battery and they are rated to 125amp, at the moment there's no signs if wear even though they see max of 220 amp at 13s, so I've added heat sleeve to tidy it up
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I have a saying if it ain't broke don't fix till its dodgy, get the most for your cash safe as possible be wise if u can spot a fault and be the one to take it seriously.
 
One quick question in the phase output of the battery there's magnets like on a PlayStation controller to prevent Interference hiw does this apply to a dc battery?
 
Ianhill said:
One quick question in the phase output of the battery there's magnets like on a PlayStation controller to prevent Interference hiw does this apply to a dc battery?
Click to expand...

There aren't any phase outputs on a battery.

If you're describing what I expect, those aren't magnets.


Please upload and attach a photo to your post of what you are talking about, on your specific unit, so that we can help you figure out what you want to know.
 
IMG_20200613_213844600.jpg
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The main power from the battery I was referring to not sure the correct terminology.
 
They remind me of what's found on the old PlayStation controllers with leads I thought that was for interference on signal wires but these don't carry signal just dc so I'm lost never seen it before on any ride.
 
Ah, those are just the main battery discharge wires. (unless it's a brushed motor and the controller is inside the battery, and those are the controller-motor wires...unlikely).

The cylinders on the wires are ferrite "beads", and are used to help mitigate inductive spikes, to assist the capacitors in the controller with smoothing out the voltage spikes and dips that occur as the controller pulls current from the battery to operate the motor.

(because nothing with a variable load is truly pure DC).


Whether they actually *do* anything in this application, I don't know. You would have to use an oscilloscope with variable loading just like you were riding, and watch what happens both with and without them, to see if there is any difference. It will likely be small.
 
If thats the case i can't see them doing much there's peaks of over 200amps going through them might stop outside interference getting in at the bms?
Charger is sorted now done a cycle of the batts from empty as I like to take it, that's normally hour and half before the constant voltage side kicks in and the wattage starts to calm so the connector handle that 500w easy, anyone has one of these I recommend highly change the barrel don't wait.
IMG_20200617_002047544.jpg
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Next on my list is the chsrger unit itself its completely blind as to what's going on other than turning the bike on and seeing charge level on a simple 3 stage led indicator, that's fine for when I'm riding I've got a good judge of what's going on as I've learnt the bike with time but as for charging it's not ideal.

Solution for me is going to be a shunt and volt/amp display so I can see exactly what is going on and fine tune the charger if it's needed as it's 3 years old now and a good overall is needed, I've got front fork rebuild kit and the rear wheel is going to be stripped and rebuilt with a new hub to allow me sprocket choice as freeriders use a stupid 7 bolt sprocket and hub just to piss people off unlike an oset hub that has an adaptable carrier to use cart sprockets, but the motor sprockets are the same so I have an endless supply but only 10t I can find I think there's 11t floating about but I can seem to find a seller UK side.

Stock it's 10t front 80t rear for 8-1 on a 16 inch trial wheel and 200amps sees the front wheel become lively specially hot of the charger, I plan to allow a 60-90 tooth and beyond sprocket choice so I can have a top speed of 47 mph or as little as 31mph that's with the stock front set up of 10t, I use the bike off-road alot so I'll opt to slow it down and extend the range a bit by giving a greater torque advantage through the gearing but be honest it go up near vertical no issues I come off before the bike shits outs so it be mental with that extra 9-1, id like to get some 11t front sprockets ideally to really lower it down and get some crazy wheelie action and extend my range a bit.

And I not talking tarmac hills I'm mean big steep rutted stuff other bikes and 4×4 have killed and failed and I go up with ease it's no racing 125cc but it's a good laugh at climbing keep up on slow technical stuff and thats where this comes into it's own and I can lift it over a fence under 40kg do that with a 125cc scrambler 2 people struggle.
 
Ianhill said:
Kuberg freerider uses a 500w charger on a xlr barrel connector, now when everything is new a shiny that's the limit of its spec but when that connector gets oxidized with ages no matter how careful you are it will begin to get warm.
Took my bike off charge and burnt my fingerprints off I was like that's not normal so I had an inspection and came across this melted connector after doing the math I concluded it's piss pour choice
View attachment 274767
I done a bit of browsing and found Anderson powerpole connectors in a small enough size with housing to replace the existing jobby this is a picture of me half way through, I needed to make an extra plate to cover up the existing holes.
View attachment 274768
While the battery was out I had a look at the batterys output terminals from the controller they are Anderson power poles from the factory I not checked the rating on these yet but the connection again is shit what a mess bare wire twisted up and not all is even in the connector considering this is a factory bike never been altered just a joke.
View attachment 274769
Click to expand...
Hi Ian, any chance you could tell me what size Anderson connectors these are? Cheers!
 
The small ones in those images are PP45, and the larger ones are PP75.

Both of them have several versions of contacts depending on the wire gauge you need to crimp them to, and two versions of each of those for different retention force levels (how hard it is to unplug).

THe PP75 use the same contacts as the SB50 series.
 
dynz said:
Hi Ian, any chance you could tell me what size Anderson connectors these are? Cheers!
Click to expand...
Anderson powerpole pp45 rated at 45amp not sure on max volts but they have good separation of conductors so id feel safe running them upto 84vdc but id half the amps no more than 25amp at 84v for 2kw charging load max if your stock battery gives plenty of room to upgrade if thats your intention in the long run.
 
Not got the battery no more to check but i think it was 14awg on the charging side and 4awg on the power
 
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