LightningRods mid drive kit

One more dumbass question \ clarification...

On the controller, the +ve ignition lead in the power connector block - I assume that's needs a switched +ve feed - essentially an on\off switch?
 
Unless labels fell off in transit everything should be labeled except for the blue, green and yellow fat phase wire connections to the motor, the fat red and thin red connections to the positive on the battery and the fat black connection to the battery negative. One detail that screws a lot of people up is the thin red 'ignition' wire that has to be connected to the battery positive to energize the controller. This should do it.

Lyen_controller_wiring.jpg
 
This feedback just in from Zack in Hawaii on his newly arrived big block kit:

"HOLY CRAP that thing is faster than my 300cc gas [bike] off the line…. amazing and the CG feels so perfect…"

:twisted:

He is having issues with the bike's rear gears skipping so that will be the next hurdle here. With this much massive torque it's going to take some special rear gears to handle it. I REALLY want a Rohloff for my Lunacycle mid bike drive!
 
It is not the cassette that is the problem. It is the detailer not having enough spring tension. That causes high power systems to chain skip under high loads. He will need to figure out how to stiften the derailer spring.

He will wear out sprockets and chains quickly now with this much power.

Matt
 
You're right Matt. I was being sloppy with my language. I meant rear transmission by "gears". I've been told that the Shimano XTR derailleurs are excellent in high power systems. MotoMoto has run an Astro 3220 through one and supposedly it didn't skip.
 
LightningRods said:
This feedback just in from Zack in Hawaii on his newly arrived big block kit:

"HOLY CRAP that thing is faster than my 300cc gas [bike] off the line…. amazing and the CG feels so perfect…"

:twisted:

He is having issues with the bike's rear gears skipping so that will be the next hurdle here. With this much massive torque it's going to take some special rear gears to handle it. I REALLY want a Rohloff for my Lunacycle mid bike drive!

the only issue i have the with rohloff is the grip shifter it's using vs the the trigger shifter in the alfine, while i understand it's probably more durable, the amount of the torque you'll have will make you quickly max out the gear in a few seconds, so if you are doing a lot of shifting you'r hands would mostly be on the shifter with less grip on the handle and brake. that's was my impression any way when i was using grip shifters. (and grip throttle btw)
 
LightningRods said:
You're right Matt. I was being sloppy with my language. I meant rear transmission by "gears". I've been told that the Shimano XTR derailleurs are excellent in high power systems. MotoMoto has run an Astro 3220 through one and supposedly it didn't skip.
Yup, he is s good one to ask about pulling power through a derailer.

Once you get to the point of pulling so much power that the chain skips, you now have enough power to not need the multiple ratios.

Matt
 
Roger that. It's a pretty ingenious way of protecting the transmission. Eric at electricbike.com told me that it's $60 to have a Rohloff technician in SF replace the shear pins. Much better than blowing up a $1500 IGH.
 
r3volved said:
Then just swap out for some adamantium pins and you're good to go. Maybe mithril.

hmm that would just break something else then:)
 
I've been told that the Shimano XTR derailleurs are excellent in high power systems. MotoMoto has run an Astro 3220 through one and supposedly it didn't skip.

are you talking about the old ones or the new clutch style?
 
recumpence said:
LightningRods said:
I'm looking for some pins made from Unobtainium. I can't seem to find a source for them. :p
Make sure it is grade 9 sub-nuclear iridium hard coated unobtain. :wink:

It's hard to find in stock, though.

Matt

considering what happened to the former individuals who tried to aquire them i would not recommend it..
 
recumpence said:
It is not the cassette that is the problem. It is the detailer not having enough spring tension. That causes high power systems to chain skip under high loads. He will need to figure out how to stiften the derailer spring.

He will wear out sprockets and chains quickly now with this much power.

Matt
I have been wondering how to strengthen the rear mech spring and came across this
http://www.mtbr.com/cat/drivetrain/chain-accessories/bullet/brothers-chain-tensioner/prd_350833_111crx.aspx
and thought it may help.
The chain and sprockets would still wear quick but if the chain behaves thats me happy.
Darren
 
Dave Kaufmann fabbed something very similar on his mid-drive hubbie longtail cargobike, made from a V-brake arm...it looked VERY professional. I believe it was a combination chainline diversion idler/chain-tensioner...
 
Here are a couple of good articles from Park Tool on how to adjust rear derailleur spring tension. Many rear derailleurs have a second internal spring position that is firmer than the as-delivered setting.

External adjustments: http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/rear-derailler-adjustments-derailleur
Internal service and adjustment: http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/rear-derailleur-overhaul

Unfortunately the Bullet Bros chain tensioner is discontinued. You can still get them on closeout.
 
LightningRods said:
You're right Matt. I was being sloppy with my language. I meant rear transmission by "gears". I've been told that the Shimano XTR derailleurs are excellent in high power systems. MotoMoto has run an Astro 3220 through one and supposedly it didn't skip.
My lunacycle kit did not come with a derailleur hanger. I dug up an old axle mount derailleur from the used parts bin at a local bike shop and it mounted up ok. It looks similar to this:
http://www.mytenspeeds.com/My_TenSp...rltonBrown/CarltonKensBrownDerailleurRear.jpg
I look forward to seeing what you come up with for gear changing on the Lunacycle/Mid bike kit.
 
Unfortunately the Bullet Bros chain tensioner is discontinued. You can still get them on closeout.

They look like an easy thing to copy.
I have not looked at Dave Kaufmanns version yet but a v brake and a spring sounds easy to make and would have adjustable tension if you welded a brake boss to something that bolts to the bike.
Back to the batcave to see what i can make.
Darren
 
Has anyone tried LRs kit on an Edgerunner, or any other bike with a 20" 406 rear wheel. Is the gearing pretty easy to adjust? What kind of gear inch range do you get? What kind of top speed could I expect with a 48V 30A setup?
 
I don't know if you were wanting a reply from me, but my kit has the most adjustable gearing of any mid drive. You can vary the 219 secondary drive sprocket from 12T (standard) up to 18T. You can also vary the 219 secondary driven sprocket from 64T to 93T. 75T and 80T are standard and the only sizes that I offer pants rings for.

Top speed for my small block kit is going to be around 33 mph @ 48-50V on flat ground unless limited by lower gearing. With a 20 inch wheel you won't be able to pedal along at higher speeds. You'll have to gear the secondary for a higher pedaling cadence to overcome the small wheel diameter. But you can gear a 20" wheeled bike to do 33 mph at 48-50V.
 
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