LightningRods mid drive kit

Hey wanted to show yousomething for those who want a stronger chain+sprockets.

I used the fat kmc 910 chain with double sprockets and it fits nearly without any modifications.
The only "problem" is a correct chainline, otherwise it'll make bad sounds :)




Hope Mike's parts arrive soon, very thankful to him, normally he doesn't supply gng parts anymore...

I'm still looking for a strong chain tensioner on the back, my one looks so bad, but it works.
 
Hi folks

Got an issue that I can't work out what's not right - hoping someone can give me some pointers...

As you'll see in the video, turning the crank is pretty stiff and lumpy (like it binds and releases). Have tried with chain from jack shaft tighter & looser - doesn't seem to make any difference. Checked for bolts \ whatever catching and all appears clear. I think I've got things pretty well lined up straight (although the photo doesn't look that way at all)

Any suggestions?

<edited to remove image & vid to clean up thread>
 
Cryptic said:
Hi folks

Got an issue that I can't work out what's not right - hoping someone can give me some pointers...

As you'll see in the video, turning the crank is pretty stiff and lumpy (like it binds and releases). Have tried with chain from jack shaft tighter & looser - doesn't seem to make any difference. Checked for bolts \ whatever catching and all appears clear. I think I've got things pretty well lined up straight (although the photo doesn't look that way at all)

Any suggestions?
Click to expand...

Was it working before?

Maybe you didn't screw the crank correctly into the bottom bracket thread.

How does the crank turn when theres no chains on it?
 
Working before - there was no before - this is first fit.

Cranks spin freely.

However, the large drive belt pulley had unscrewed itself down its freewheel and catching - thanks for idea Darren.

I assume that this freewheel is loaded in the tightening direction under load?
 
Cryptic said:
Working before - there was no before - this is first fit.

Cranks spin freely.

However, the large drive belt pulley had unscrewed itself down its freewheel and catching - thanks for idea Darren.

I assume that this freewheel is loaded in the tightening direction under load?
Click to expand...
Mine did the same on my AFT kit a few weeks back, was really confused by it till i took it apart.
Hope you get it sorted mate
Darren
 
This only seems to happen when the kit is first assembled and run under no load. I've had it happen to me while bench testing. When the kit runs under load the hub adapter is self tightening and shouldn't come loose again. If it ever did I'd go after it with blue Locktite.
 
Thanks Mike - I assumed it would tighten under load so pressed on.

First test ride - short vid clip (excuse my knees and poor angle of CA)

Looks like the hall \ phase set up may have com back to haunt me. Hardly moving at full throttle, slight hill defeat pretty much brought me to a standstill.

Halls are y-y b-g g-b, phase b-b g-g y-y which on my bench testing gave a max of 30W. As you can just about make out, on the test ride, max watts was about 99. Running 18s charged to approx 70v.

Help (again) please :?

<edited to remove vid to clean up thread>
 
The first thing I would try is b-g, g-b, y-y on the phase wires as Edward recommends. At least that way when we go to him for help we can say it's hooked up as he recommends. It doesn't work on my test rig or the other Lyen controllers I have here but I defer to Edward on anything electrical.
 
LightningRods said:
The first thing I would try is b-g, g-b, y-y on the phase wires as Edward recommends. At least that way when we go to him for help we can say it's hooked up as he recommends. It doesn't work on my test rig or the other Lyen controllers I have here but I defer to Edward on anything electrical.
Click to expand...

Yeah, if you recall, I went through all combinations of phase and hall wires, and with both phase and halls set to cross over the blues and greens, the motor didn't spin at all. Attached are the results I had (one thing I didn't note was direction of spin). I was bench testing at about 48v and from posts earlier on, was looking for something in the order of 150W.

This test ride fits with my observation that on bench test it seemed to spin very slowly.
 
I can't repeat strongly enough that you can also have a dodgy connection somewhere else in the system, most likely from battery to controller, that will cause all kinds of strange problems.The most common symptom that I have found of a bad battery connection is for the motor to jump briefly and then stop running. It's maddening. High voltage DC running to a controller behaves differently than anything I ran into in basic motorcycle, automotive and household wiring.

It just takes a second to swap those phases back to what Edward recommends. If the motor still does not spin (the results I get myself on my bench equipment) we need to go back to him with this information.

Let's please take this off forum until we have a conclusion to come back to the group with. Thanks.
 
The current build queue:

David dV.
Frank J.
Paul Z.
Richard P.
Luan L.
Francisco dZ.
Robert B.
Stephen D.
Brian H.
Rick R.
Mark E.
Clifford B.
Conny J.
Didrik W.
Paul Z.
Christoper G.
Joel H.
David C.
Frederic P.

The orders at the bottom of this list are less than 30 days old. :D
 
LightningRods said:
I looked your bike up. Unfortunately it has one of the press fit BBs which will require a press fit to BSA thread adapter tube similar to this one:

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/us/en/sram-pressfit-30-to-bsa-adaptor-kit/rp-prod71306

I solved for the curving front downtube with an extended lower mount bracket. The pressfit BBs are a bit more of a problem.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the reply :D

so if i replace the bb using the kit from the link your kit is compatible with my bike?

cheers.
 
You need to make certain that the adapter is for SRAM Press Fit GXP 92 to BSA thread. The other issue is the width of the frame shell. I had a customer contact me recently who had a 92mm BB shell. I make 68mm, 73mm, 83mm and 100mm lower brackets. I'm really not excited about adding 92mm BBs to the list.

Really cool bike otherwise. See if the seller of the adapter tube can tell you anything about the similarities and differences between GXP 92 and BB30.
 
While I'm making lists, here is a list of countries that I've shipped mid drive kits to. This is directly due to Endless-Sphere and electricbike.com. I have yet to spend a penny on advertising other than my web site.

France
Sweden
Canada
Australia
New Zealand
Israel
Finland
Great Britain
Denmark
Spain
Norway
Portugal
Switzerland
Singapore
Netherlands
Belgium
Italy
Japan
Wales
Germany
Indonesia
Croatia
Thailand
Kazakhstan
 
Cryptic said:
Looks like the hall \ phase set up may have com back to haunt me. Hardly moving at full throttle, slight hill defeat pretty much brought me to a standstill.
Click to expand...

Hi Mike,

you're right on the money - without the CA connected, motor runs like a train - connect CA back up and it's back to mobility scooter.

The only settings I've changed in the CA from out-of-the-box are the battery chemistry and the cell string.

***************************

This is turning out to be a CA setting issue rather than anything with the hall or phase wires. For Cryptic's motor and all of the motors that I have worked with using any of the Lyen controllers that I have had in the shop here is the wiring config:

Halls:
B>G
G>B
Y>Y

Phases
B>B
G>G
Y>Y

My experience has been that normally the motor does not run at all wired B>G, G>B on the phases. I did get a couple of motors wired differently from the factory that did run B>G, G>B.
 
would i be able to use spacers of some sort and use the 100mm one you provide? or would there be problems with where the threading is placed?

if im way off here and there is a thread i can read to learn more please let me know.

Thanks
 
I'd start with the adapter tube. First see if you can get one for your GXP 92. If there is one there are probably flanges on the outside of the tube. That will eat up maybe 2mm per side. I have thick laser cut BB spacer rings that could make up the rest of the gap to a 100mm. I was going to offer to make a 92mm bracket for you and then realized that we have to use a 100mm wide Gigapipe thread in BB cartridge. So we need to get your spacing right to make the lower bracket fit.

I'm sorry that manufacturers are doing all of this daffy stuff now. I'm doing my best to standardize things around standards that will make parts interchangeable. Many bike manufacturers now seem to be going for oddball proprietary parts that makes swapping parts around between bikes really difficult. I'm sure there is some mad scheme behind all of this.
 
wow, what a quick reply! :D
dont worry about it, as far as i can see you stuff is amazing and work hard to give people what they want.
im going to have a good look now for that adapter. oh and i think you are right there, while looking for the adapter i was going through pages of them... :eek:

Thanks for all the help! :D
 
Cryptic was e-mailing Justin today. For starters he had the throttle hooked up as you would expect- to the controller. Once a CA is involved the throttle needs to be connected directly to the CA, not to the throttle plug on the controller.

I'm getting set up to be an OEM supplier for the CA3. I'm going to ingest everything I can find on the CA3 to make integration with Lyen's controllers and my kit as simple as possible.
 
Alan B said:
I had the same problem the first time I hooked up a CA V3 to a Lyen controller. They cover this in the CA V3 manual, there are a few ways to hook it up and set it to solve the problem, best to check the manual and visit the CA V3 thread for help.
Click to expand...

Yeah me too... I think I managed to get the colours wrong when connecting the HALL sensor wires to Lyen's controller.
 
I know i'm no longer part of this thread or subscribed to it and be ignored, but with the problems of setting up ca , i should probably mention something about the speed sensor version.

in some cases (like vibrations from the frame, or the magnet slightly mis-aligned with the sensor) the speed may "spike" 3-4 times then the current one, you could be riding joyfully at 50 kph and suddenly see the reading jump to 400, and back again, this will trip the speed limiting function which cannot be disabled (just increased to the max) and cut off the throttle, i also have analogger readouts that show these spikes like that on file as well.

if you are riding and suddenly experience throttle cut-offs with no apparent reason, the "left" screen from ca3's main screen is the "flag" screen (Volt,Speed,Watt etc..) which lit up each time an appropriate limiting factor is reached, so you can examine those while riding (while looking at the road at the same time) to see if any of those provide a reason for the cut-offs.

btw if you aren't aware grin released a while ago http://www.ebikes.ca/tools/trip-analyzer.html which if you got a analogger will allow you to share your rides. as well as to get a complete analysis of usage with gps route.

we now return you to your regular broadcast..thank you.
 
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