Magura throttle on a 24 Fet Lyen/infineon?

[Philistine]

Hi guys,

I am looking to connect a Magura throttle to a Lyen 24 Fet controller. I have found a few threads on connecting Magura throttles, but each one has differing recommendations. The most reliable I have found is one thread where Aussie Jester says he was successful with a 1K resistor on the Magura blue cable and a 3K resistor on the Magura Black cable, but in the same thread Fechter recommends a 1.5K resistor on the Magura blue and black.

Can anyone confirm the best resistor combo for a Magura throttle to a 24 Fet Lyen?

EDIT: Also, out of interest, would it make any difference when the throttle is changed to a different sized/fet controller, or would it be the same regardless of controller? Ie, would what works on a 24 Fet work the same on a 12 Fet, or would the resistors used make a difference?

 

[nicobie]

I'm running a magura throttle with a 12 fet lynns controller wired up the same way as AJ did it and it works great. No dead spots on either the top or bottom end.

I can't see what difference it would make using it on either a 12 or 24 fet controller.

 

[Philistine]

Thanks Nicobie - I will go with Aj's recipe - much appreciated.

 

[Philistine]

So I went with Aussie Jesters wiring (thanks again Nicobie for confirming), ie, a 1K resistor on the Magura Blue wire and a 3K resistor on the Magura black wire, and it worked a treat! These Magura throttles are the business - feels so much better than the cheap thumb throttle.

Interestingly though, the throttle on my 12S Yuba is 100% perfect, but on my 20S Greyborg with no throttle applied the wheel spins slightly, as if slight throttle is being applied (ie, it is not "zeroed"). It is about 26W, and is enough so that when you turn the bike on it moves ever so slightly and when you turn it off it "rests" slightly back on its side stand. Does this mean I need a different resistor on that setup?

These are the resistors I used:

 

[AussieJester]

So I went with Aussie Jesters wiring (thanks again Nicobie for confirming), ie, a 1K resistor on the Magura Blue wire and a 3K resistor on the Magura black wire, and it worked a treat! These Magura throttles are the business - feels so much better than the cheap thumb throttle.

Interestingly though, the throttle on my 12S Yuba is 100% perfect, but on my 20S Greyborg with no throttle applied the wheel spins slightly, as if slight throttle is being applied (ie, it is not "zeroed"). It is about 26W, and is enough so that when you turn the bike on it moves ever so slightly and when you turn it off it "rests" slightly back on its side stand. Does this mean I need a different resistor on that setup?

These are the resistors I used:

Check under the magura, see the little 'self tapper' screw? if you loosen that you can turn the pot inside the throttle either way to get it back to zero, tiz a fine adjustment thang...WARNING though, while adjusting make sure the rear wheel is off the ground

Maguras RoCK those cheap hard plastic hall sensor throttles are for kids toys...IMO

KiM

 

[Philistine]

Thanks Kim, had no idea about the adjuster, much appreciated.

Maguras RoCK those cheap hard plastic hall sensor throttles are for kids toys...IMO

Yeah, it completely changes the feel of the bike, should have bought them ages ago.

Cheers, Phil.

 

[Philistine]

WARNING though, while adjusting make sure the rear wheel is off the ground

Its funny you should say that, after I first put it on my Yuba, I forgot I had left the bike on, and I am so in the habit of being able to grab both handle bars (because of a thumb throttle), and I grabbed a handful of throttle and it took off like a wild horse. I had the huge Yuba with 40ah of lipo on board and two kids seats, and I had it wheel standing with me running after it like a man chasing a runaway horse. I won't do that again

 

[AussieJester]

I won't do that again

OooH please do, this time film it for us all too see

KiM

 

[Philistine]

I posted this anecdote on another thread on throttles, but thought I would repeat it here as a warning to any readers of the thread thinking of moving to Maguras, they are unbeatable as a throttle for riding, but they have their own safety issues....

The anecdote below is what followed my story above.

Minutes after installing it, out of habit I grabbed both handlebar grips to move the bike, and grabbed a handful of throttle - the problem is the more that happens the more throttle ratchets on and you are attached to a missile. I sent myself flying into the garage wall. OK - learned my lesson, won't do that again. But then another ES member comes past my place to have a look at the bike, I don't warn him, he grabs a handful of throttle, now he is charging after a runaway bike. A few days later, I visit with my dear mentor and friend, who is aged 78. I turn on the bike and step away from it for a moment, in the meantime he grabs my bike by the handlebars before I can say anything, my 78 year old hero and mentor is charging after a wheelying bike, and luckily his fall is cushioned by landing on my huge yuba mundo. Luckily he is only bruised and didn't break any bones, but my heart was in my mouth. I am thinking I might have to sacrifice the magura (which I absolutely love for riding purposes), as it is just too much of a loaded weapon. Motorcyles at least have a clutch, so if they are idling away (which you can also hear as a warning) a grabbed throttle will just rev the enginge.....

 

[AussieJester]

Hit up recumpence he has a thumb conversion for the magura Phil You get the good mounting
the magura offers along with a Delerin thumb throttle made by 'da man'

My best mate jumped on my blue cruiser for sit/look, the first time he had been by when it was actually running, i went for a pee as i left i emphasized, don't touch the throttle its very precise, little is alot "ok" he says...i leave the garage then near immediately hear a BANG...roll around the door too see me mate under my blue cruiser which had rammed into the garage door..."what did i say?" h'e said " i only touched it a bit..." again i said to him " what did it say!!!!!!" Too this day he still hasn't ridden any of my bikes, one of a couple i won't let ride them
simply because they will not follow instructions.

Glad ya old mate wasn't hurt anywayz Phil... good luck with the Magura

KiM

 

[voicecoils]

You can have a handlebar switch so your throttle is always 'off' unless you are ready to ride. (Having the switch enable the controller's ebrake cut off is one of the simpler ways)

I watch ebikes shoot away from people regularly...right hand, left hand, full throttle and half grips. Even people who have never ridden a moto/scooter/ebike before still eagerly 'blip' the throttle or give it a little twist just to see what happens :lol: . Ebikes with 20" wheels especially have a habit of climbing walls

Lastly, I've got one of those thumb converters from recumpence, never used & I'd be happy to sell it if you want to send me a PM Phil.

 

[Alan B]

I used a 5K pot on both ends of the Magura throttle and adjusted it perfectly. Works great and exactly as much dead room at each end as you want - which is a little - and no self-crawling.

The pots I used are 20 turn circuit board mount types so they stay put when you set them.

 

[Philistine]

Thanks Kim/Voicecoils/Alan B, all really good info. I really love the throttle, it is so nice to ride with. I like your idea Voicecoils (re the ebrake switch). I was just trying to logically think of something though - what I would love is if I could have a switch/push button (much like the ignition button on a motorbike), that I had to push in in adition to the general (thin red wire) switch to turn the bike on. Obviously I could have that as a switch relating to the ebrake switch, but when I then got to my destination, and turned off the bike (ie the switch relating to the thin red wire), unless I remembered to also switch the ebrake switch again, it would remain on, and the safety feature would be pointless. What would be perfect is if they could be sequential switches (ie, once the general power switch was turned off, the "throttle" switch would have to be switched again after the power was switched on again.

What I am trying to explain is (because I can hear you guys saying "put the thin red wire switch next to the throttle, and only turn the bike on when you are about to go"), but the point I am making is that you often turn your bike on, then stop and go do something (or alternatively pull up somewhere, hop off for two secs), then some idiot goes to move the bike (like a bicycle) and grabs a handfull of throttle. What I am saying is that on a motorbike the clutch/neutral acts like an idiot barrier - I want something like that, so that there is that final mental act before moving (ie an equivalent of putting into gear and releasing the clutch) for the throttle to work.

 

[Alan B]

I'm planning to use a keyswitch and a kill switch. I don't walk away from a vehicle with the keys in it.

I am planning to learn to use the kill switch so when I stop I throw the kill switch.

Also put a switch in the seat. Probably a good idea anyway. Sit to start?

Maybe you want to put a sound generator to make idle noises when the throttle is hot.

 

[nicobie]

Maybe you want to put a sound generator to make idle noises when the throttle is hot.

 

[Philistine]

Maybe you want to put a sound generator to make idle noises when the throttle is hot.

That's it, when the throttle is hot the bike emits the sound of a jacobs ladder......

 

[Alan B]

Or the really deep rumble of a star destroyer. So powerful you can even hear it through the vacuum of space.

 

[Philistine]

Or the really deep rumble of a star destroyer. So powerful you can even hear it through the vacuum of space.

Another good option, but I think I am pretty settled now that it will emit at high volume MC Hammer's You can't touch this.

[youtube]NyEE0qpfeig[/youtube]


That will never get annoying.

 

[jonescg]

On the subject of throttles,

My Cell_Man e-bike has been giving me nothing but trouble lately. The throttle failed, so I put a new one on. It worked great for about 1 km before setting the bike into cruise control

So I got a new one from the local shop, wire it up, nothing. I check it with the multimeter- nothing! I get 0.27 KOhm between red and black (with cheap throttles these days, colour is meaningless). So I give up and start playing with a Magura throttle Voicecoils sent me.

Nothing. I have resistors in series with black and blue as per the above thread, still nothing. At least this throttle shows 5.2 KOhm to 0.9 kOhm across brown and blue as you wipe.

So I plug in the spare controller and repeat. Nothing.

Sigh, WTF now?

 

[jonescg]

OK so I finally got it going again.

And like all of my e-bike troubles to date, it stems from the throttle wire colours. For frocks sake, can we please agree on a colour scheme for the throttle wires?? I was getting nothing cause I couldn't work out which wire was +5 V and Ground. Black being ground was one consistency, but blue for +5 V and brown for the wiper? I mean surely +5 V should be red, or some shade of red, like brown The resistors seem to be doing their thing, as the throttle is nice and linear. The past cheap (as in cheaply made, not cheap to buy given the failure rate) throttles have been like 2-stroke throttle responses - nothing till WOT.

Oh, and I tried to use mini Molex connectors for all of these parts but they drive me insane. How to crimp them without munching everything up has got me stuffed. I ended up soldering and shrinking everything instead. Yeah yeah I know; flex breakage, corrosion etc but I ruined the Molex plugs anyway and I wanted a working e-bike after all this time. So I did what I know how to do and soldered the frockers in place.

Now I can find a Cycle Luminator to brighten up my day...

 

[gwhy!1]

I have often thought about this problem about a live bike, I have grandkids ( not just grandkids do it ) and no matter how often you tell them never to twist a throttle on any type of bike its always the first thing they want to do either on one of my gas bikes or on a e-bike but they never twist a throttle on my gas bikes if the engine is running. I was thinking about a beeper so when the throttle is in the rest position for more than say 5-10secs a regular beep will be emitted ( 1 beep every sec ), nothing to annoying or loud ( because of normal riding conditions ) but it will serve as a reminder that the bike is live.

 

[John in CR]

OK so I finally got it going again.

And like all of my e-bike troubles to date, it stems from the throttle wire colours. For frocks sake, can we please agree on a colour scheme for the throttle wires?? I was getting nothing cause I couldn't work out which wire was +5 V and Ground. Black being ground was one consistency, but blue for +5 V and brown for the wiper? I mean surely +5 V should be red, or some shade of red, like brown The resistors seem to be doing their thing, as the throttle is nice and linear. The past cheap (as in cheaply made, not cheap to buy given the failure rate) throttles have been like 2-stroke throttle responses - nothing till WOT.

Oh, and I tried to use mini Molex connectors for all of these parts but they drive me insane. How to crimp them without munching everything up has got me stuffed. I ended up soldering and shrinking everything instead. Yeah yeah I know; flex breakage, corrosion etc but I ruined the Molex plugs anyway and I wanted a working e-bike after all this time. So I did what I know how to do and soldered the frockers in place.

Now I can find a Cycle Luminator to brighten up my day...

Those little ebike testers end all wiring anxiety about hall throttles, as well as check to make sure the throttle is functioning properly. Trouble shooting starts with a process of elimination that the test gets done quickly. eg Bike doesn't work...has voltage-check, phase wires all the way into the motor proven ok by the tester-check, hall sensors work-check, throttle works-check, controller sends +5V to throttle and halls so you know it's actually turned on- check. That takes just a couple of minutes to prove the problem is with the controller. I probably check throttles with it more than anything else.

 

[John in CR]

I have often thought about this problem about a live bike, I have grandkids ( not just grandkids do it ) and no matter how often you tell them never to twist a throttle on any type of bike its always the first thing they want to do either on one of my gas bikes or on a e-bike but they never twist a throttle on my gas bikes if the engine is running. I was thinking about a beeper so when the throttle is in the rest position for more than say 5-10secs a regular beep will be emitted ( 1 beep every sec ), nothing to annoying or loud ( because of normal riding conditions ) but it will serve as a reminder that the bike is live.

That's why I put a key-switch on every bike. I've driven cars enough decades that it's second nature to turn a key off and remove it when I stop, so carrying that habit over to my ebikes has been easy.

 

[jonescg]

Yeah John, I got the controller outputs OK (+5V, 0V) but as Id added the resistors in series with the throttle blue and black wires I really didn't know what readings to expect from them. I actually have a separate controller I can plug in to test if the fault stems from controller or not, and this has been effective to date. But when it's a double negative, like faulty throttle AND the controller senses a hi-throttle fault, it gets a bit tougher.

I really should just get one of those testers...

 

[gwhy!1]

Yeah John, I got the controller outputs OK (+5V, 0V) but as Id added the resistors in series with the throttle blue and black wires I really didn't know what readings to expect from them. I actually have a separate controller I can plug in to test if the fault stems from controller or not, and this has been effective to date. But when it's a double negative, like faulty throttle AND the controller senses a hi-throttle fault, it gets a bit tougher.

I really should just get one of those testers...

Just remove the resistors from the throt to test it on the controller, it will work ( as long as everything else is ok ) all the resistors do is make the dead spot at the beginning of the twist smaller.