Meanwell clone fail...?

monkeychops

100 W
Joined
Oct 17, 2011
Messages
160
Location
Wiltshire, United Kingdom
So I got my new Meanwell clone from eBay. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/170661884432
I did the current limiting mod, set it charging my lipos and turned the screw on the pot until the current hit about 6A.
I hadn't yet done the 'always on' fan mod.
Half hour later the green light went off on the front of the power supply.
Nothing.
Power supply seemed completely dead.

Inside the PSU looks like this:
20120725_222234.jpg

and close up on the mod looks like this:
20120725_222259.jpg

Part of me thinks, maybe this is normal. Quality control not good, anything could go wrong. Another part of me thinks maybe I did something wrong.
Any ideas anyone?
 
when tuning meanwells. u need to have fan on mod., then keep hand on back where fets are bolted to .. feel here while test charging a fully depleted pack. if u can barely keep ur hand there, ur good. if it gets hot enough to burn, ur trying for too many amps, unplug before it burns up . trim shunt or do other current mod. untill u can hohand on screw on back.

u might try checking the 110/220 switch for continuity, once my buddy left the fan against the floor, his switch melted and broke inside. :mrgreen:
 
I would be checking the inrush current limiter for continuity first, and work your way along from there (have seen the common-mode chokes de-solder themselves on these). If you put DC into the mains terminals do you get the voltage across the caps? (testing if the bridge rectifier is OK).

The transistors do die a death if overheated, but I run a genuine 48V meanwell limited at 6A and 57V, and it travels on top of the battery every day (and has done so for 3,000Klms, the only problem has been the crappy fans - I fitted an 80mm one to the top).

If the shottky diode desolders (or has a dry joint) you also lose output. The fan mod works well, at least you know you have some rails powered.

I would start by looking for dry joints first, or anything out of the ordinary.
 
his ICL looks intact.

that power supply has the front end running across the top in that picture. those two big caps in the top left corner is where the DC voltage sits after it goes through the rectifier diode bridge.

you wanna see if there is 300V across those caps. if there is voltage there then we can go farther along the current path.
 
Thanks for your replies.
I measured the resistance across the current limiting pot at 300 ohms. Yes, it is intact
and still connected.
I can't get my probes underneath the 2 large caps.
across the fuse there is no voltage.
Is there anywhere else I can safely and easily test?
cheers guys.
 
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