mon-goose to MON-STER

Tench charges $200 for axle (any size) , nuts , bearings and shipping from UK to Au.
Its reasonable but still allot.
He quoted $160 without nuts or bearings. So if it took me all day to make an axle I'd have a bit of budget left for shipping.
Thanks to Snowchyld for showing me the bolt on mill adaptor for the seig lathe. Should be all set up to go for about $1100
I don't really have the money right now but I'll be buying that setup instead of buying axles from now on. Also need a hydrolic press. I'm tempted to try again at making one but after the last failed attempt I'm a bit shy.
Edit
Something like this.
http://www.machines4u.com.au/view/advert/WORKSHOP-PRESS-12TON/146706/
 
pendragon8000 said:
Tench charges $200 for axle (any size) , nuts , bearings and shipping from UK to Au.
Its reasonable but still allot.
He quoted $160 without nuts or bearings. So if it took me all day to make an axle I'd have a bit of budget left for shipping.
Thanks to Snowchyld for showing me the bolt on mill adaptor for the seig lathe. Should be all set up to go for about $1100
I don't really have the money right now but I'll be buying that setup instead of buying axles from now on. Also need a hydrolic press. I'm tempted to try again at making one but after the last failed attempt I'm a bit shy.
Edit
Something like this.
http://www.machines4u.com.au/view/advert/WORKSHOP-PRESS-12TON/146706/
Click to expand...

Good to know, I think I will have to get a hold of tench down the road for an axle when I get my hands on a TC4080 with the regular spoke flange.
 
John Bozi said:
..................
I imagine Hyena would have swallowed the camera or at least looked like this
article-2336924-1A2CF0AC000005DC-106_634x610.jpg
Click to expand...

shit jay nice to see you looking so well... did you get a haircut or something?
 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GL5HTzW_sYg&feature=youtube_gdata_player
[youtube]GL5HTzW_sYg[/youtube]
Just did a test drive . I can report she's running great. Thanks for your help Hyena :)
Was going to ride to work but not enough time to charge. Sleepy time...
 
Rix said:
Shes back, got a 4065 on it. Let us know how you like that over the 3525. I am betting by leaps.
Click to expand...
Yeah probably. I was pretty gentle with it. Can't explain it but seems allot smoother. Probably the new ca v3 firmware. Ebikes.ca updated it to prelim 6 for me. I might reprogram the controller back down to 100% now that I have more power and speed with the h40.
 
pendragon8000 said:
Rix said:
Shes back, got a 4065 on it. Let us know how you like that over the 3525. I am betting by leaps.
Click to expand...
Yeah probably. I was pretty gentle with it. Can't explain it but seems allot smoother. Probably the new ca v3 firmware. Ebikes.ca updated it to prelim 6 for me. I might reprogram the controller back down to 100% now that I have more power and speed with the h40.
Click to expand...

Don't tone down your programming, that would be very un-pendragon like Ken. Give it try with your current programing curve and over percentage setting. I will bet you have a religious experience. :mrgreen:
 
Nice to see you finally getting it going Ken.
I'm with Rix, if there's any evidence you riding in a sissy manner I'll take the motor back off you :p
 
Hyena said:
Nice to see you finally getting it going Ken.
I'm with Rix, if there's any evidence you riding in a sissy manner I'll take the motor back off you :p
Click to expand...
Shiiiiiit. Well that settles it. I best get my right wrist ready for some unprecidented throttlin'!
 
pendragon8000 said:
Hyena said:
Nice to see you finally getting it going Ken.
I'm with Rix, if there's any evidence you riding in a sissy manner I'll take the motor back off you :p
Click to expand...
Shiiiiiit. Well that settles it. I best get my right wrist ready for some unprecidented throttlin'!
Click to expand...

Glad to hear it Ken. Too boot, you got the Jay thumbs up approval to do so :twisted: . That speaks volumes. :mrgreen:
 
Monster is totally amazing with the 4065. My mate Ryan and I were hookin round the unused bit of old F1 track in the Adelaide parklands. 1 nice smooth corner we got some nice 80kph leans happening. My apologies for no video, phone was flat battery. Motor was virtually silent to spectator and tyres noise only with notable dopler effect.

Leaking brakes:

Rear brake pads wore out and started leaking. Could they be OK if I just put new pads in or do I need to bleed / top up? Rix I'm lookin at you sir. I lost a few ml of oil. Not shit loads but could be significant.
Thanks for any help yall
 
pendragon8000 said:
Monster is totally amazing with the 4065. My mate Ryan and I were hookin round the unused bit of old F1 track in the Adelaide parklands. 1 nice smooth corner we got some nice 80kph leans happening. My apologies for no video, phone was flat battery. Motor was virtually silent to spectator and tyres noise only with notable dopler effect.

Leaking brakes:

Rear brake pads wore out and started leaking. Could they be OK if I just put new pads in or do I need to bleed / top up? Rix I'm lookin at you sir. I lost a few ml of oil. Not shit loads but could be significant.
Thanks for any help yall
Click to expand...

The caliper shouldn't be leaking just because your pads were wore thin and the pistons are extended in the caliper. Just doesn't sound right at all. You should be able to go metal to metal and the pistons extended max without leakage, but that being said, put some new pads and bleed. See if there is any leaks, if not, good to go.
 
good to see your back on the road, :mrgreen:

How was the heat compared to the vented 3525?
Hows the efficiency? or to early to say...

Have you given up on crazy controller/ca setting stuff? I don't let my ca do anything but display info because I get no power cuts or other weirdness creeping in.
 
Thanks Rick, I'll check the oil and put new pads in. Its only the rear so if its I tiny bit spongy because of air I'll just deal withit


John Bozi said:
good to see your back on the road, :mrgreen:

How was the heat compared to the vented 3525?
Hows the efficiency? or to early to say...

Have you given up on crazy controller/ca setting stuff? I don't let my ca do anything but display info because I get no power cuts or other weirdness creeping in.
Click to expand...
It seems to over heat way less. More power as well. But the extra weight is noticeable by Ryan and I.
 
pendragon8000 said:
It seems to over heat way less. More power as well.
Click to expand...
Evolution of the hadron range :p
They actually run a bit warm on 24S. If you drop it down to 18-20S they run much cooler and have really good efficiency too. But who cares about efficiency when you're belting around like the previously linked dog with his head out the window :mrgreen:
Talking about the old F1 track takes me back to my trip down to Adelaide, and me losing my gopro (and the opportunity to record the trip) :(

But the extra weight is noticeable by Ryan and I.
Click to expand...
Best not ever consider a cro-style motor then! The weight of a H40 is just normal to me now and the extra little bit in the TC not a bit deal, but step up to the cro and you know all about it, especially when pair with a moto rim and tyre.

Re: your brake leaks, I'd actually clean the area right up then force the pads apart and fit a bleed block and squish down on that first. As Rix said just low pads shouldn't cause a leak so it's most likely either the piston or the banjo (or similar interface on your caliper). I'd be reluctant to fit the new pads straight up because if the leak IS else where you don't want to foul up a set of new pads.
 
Hats off to you Ken, because you can feel the difference between a 16.75 pound 3525 and an 18 pound 4065. Feeling the difference of 1.25 pounds on the rear, especially when that weight is not towards the outer edge such as a MC tire vs MTB tire, but towards the center, tells me two things about you. First, you are paying attention to whats going on, 2nd, you are a good rider. Only someone who has his shit together would notice a 1.25 pound increase on the rear. Like Jay said, stay away from the cro, the crown, and the 54xx.
 
Ken, the 4080 spoiled, me. Its much lighter than the 54xx. I will gladly pay the penalty of heat build up resistance for the weight decrease. I didn't know how significant the difference was until I ran the 5403 on the back of my Fighter. Huge. Maybe if I was running 10kw would the 5403 be worth the weight penalty, but at say 6kw or less, no way. I think your 6kw set up with the 4065 is perfect.
 
After talking up H40s and lighter motors in general for years, you guys are gonna shit bricks when I tell you how much the latest motor I'm looking at weighs :lol:
Mind you it's going on the madass so I don't have to pretend it's even vaguely a bicycle
 
Hyena said:
pendragon8000 said:
It seems to over heat way less. More power as well.
Click to expand...
Evolution of the hadron range :p
They actually run a bit warm on 24S. If you drop it down to 18-20S they run much cooler and have really good efficiency too. But who cares about efficiency when you're belting around like the previously linked dog with his head out the window :mrgreen:
Talking about the old F1 track takes me back to my trip down to Adelaide, and me losing my gopro (and the opportunity to record the trip) :(

But the extra weight is noticeable by Ryan and I.
Click to expand...
Best not ever consider a cro-style motor then! The weight of a H40 is just normal to me now and the extra little bit in the TC not a bit deal, but step up to the cro and you know all about it, especially when pair with a moto rim and tyre.

Re: your brake leaks, I'd actually clean the area right up then force the pads apart and fit a bleed block and squish down on that first. As Rix said just low pads shouldn't cause a leak so it's most likely either the piston or the banjo (or similar interface on your caliper). I'd be reluctant to fit the new pads straight up because if the leak IS else where you don't want to foul up a set of new pads.
Click to expand...
Hey just going back to this, I won'tbe running less than 24s on this anytime soon. But if/when I do a raptor, I'm thinking 21s .
Also good points about not ruining more brake pads. Im not sure how the piston much works, like if it extends too gar does it leak or if it leaks a bit does that mean it totally shagged?
Yeah the f1 track is cool Jay, I'll have to record a hot lap soon :)

I'm guessing you won't be doing jumps with the madass then Jay, with all that unsprung weight? :p
 
pendragon8000 said:
I'm thinking 21s .
Click to expand...

Why?

Your the second person who has said this odd number is there ideal who has not tried it. It interests me because came to it by the limitations of grinfineon controller, not my logical choice usually controlled by hk lipo choices of 6s and then logical even numbered charging ports.

24s2p makes sense and 12s4p makes a lot more sense for realistic riding speeds, battery health etc. but too slow.

Now I saw they've got 8s lipo on hk with a single balance plug....

16s2p is looking very sexy and even, although it won't fit my triangle but have been contemplating 4x6s in triangle and 4x8s outside it.

Stupid speed at 28s just under 120v 2p (possible with the lyen I've got)

or run 14s4p which is looking like a tidy long distance haul....

or sorry to digress in my case with my planned dual motor:

14s2p x 25amps bafang mid drive
14s2p x 60 amps 4065 hub which would be in its continuous rating of 2500w

I doubt you could top that with these new 14s hyperion chargers (if they had 7s single plug lipo cheap) or with the 8s ichargers that are also out
 
pendragon8000 said:
I'm guessing you won't be doing jumps with the madass then Jay, with all that unsprung weight? :p
Click to expand...
haha no, the nearest I'll be getting to jumps on the road is hitting speed bumps at high speed.

John Bozi said:
pendragon8000 said:
I'm thinking 21s .
Click to expand...
Why?
Your the second person who has said this odd number is there ideal who has not tried it. It interests me because came to it by the limitations of grinfineon controller, not my logical choice usually controlled by hk lipo choices of 6s and then logical even numbered charging ports.
Click to expand...
LOL, using existing hobbyking lipo configurations solely to dictate how you set up your bike is even less logical. :p

I advocate using 21S and build my kits using this series string count, which is where some other references may be coming from.
I do this for a few reasons
A: 24S is too high a voltage for 100v rated components. Yes it may run fine for ever or it might pop the first time you hit the throttle. I can do without that sort of uncertainty on my own bike and I don't recommend it to others (especially if it falls to me to replace when it blows up!)
And if you step up to 4115s or similar 150v rated components when you're only just going over 100v it's a backwards move for trivial gains and more heat and less current handing.
B: Allowing a 10% error window is pretty standard for most components. This is why most controllers with 100v rated parts stipulate a maximum of 90v. 21S = just over 88v which fits with this. 22S would be fine too but...
C: I was originally making long, thin packs to strap to the top bar or down tube and 21S was a good fit for most bikes but 22S + BMS was a bit long (but similar logic to you basing what you use around HK lipo brick sizes)
D: I've found running much over 80v on higher speed wound motors tends to make them more current hungry / inefficient in much of the lower and frequently used speed ranges. I used to run 18S (3x 6S lipo) and then 20S (4x5S) but when I did push the voltage up to 24S for a short period I found the efficiency dropped, heating went up for minimal gains in top speed you'd rarely use.
E: When I went from lipo to li-ion the sag was a little more noticable so I supplemented the old 20S pack voltage with an extra series string to boost it up to 21S
F: Your mum :p
 
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