Motor axle, depth in drop outs
- Thread starter Lakebod
- Start date
DAND214
10 MW
It looks like it is but not sure as we don't know where it was before.
Aluminum frame, Torque Arm/s for sure.
Don't know what motor that is but still a good idea for TAs.
Dan
Aluminum frame, Torque Arm/s for sure.
Don't know what motor that is but still a good idea for TAs.
Dan
dogman dan
1 PW
To perfectly align the disk brake, file the dropout deeper, so that the center of the motor axle is exactly on the same spot the center of the previous wheel was.
But bear in mind,, this is a permanent change, if you go back, the disc may drag on the caliper housing.
Ok to leave it alone, but some of the disc pad will be above the disc rotor. As the pads wear, it can result in the unworn part touching with no grab on the disc itself.
But bear in mind,, this is a permanent change, if you go back, the disc may drag on the caliper housing.
Ok to leave it alone, but some of the disc pad will be above the disc rotor. As the pads wear, it can result in the unworn part touching with no grab on the disc itself.
The pics look fine depth-wise, but as DM noted, it's hard to say since we don't know the position of the original axle center.
Accurate marking for the final desired shape on the dropout ahead of time is a huge time saver and will help you avoid uneven side to side depths that can angle the wheel.
Here's a post with some thoughts that you might find useful:
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=82721&p=1213921#p1213921
Accurate marking for the final desired shape on the dropout ahead of time is a huge time saver and will help you avoid uneven side to side depths that can angle the wheel.
Here's a post with some thoughts that you might find useful:
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=82721&p=1213921#p1213921
New picture added to the link above. Looks like the rotor is actually sitting too deep into the caliper, it almost touches the bottom (the bike is upside down so its actually almost touching the top of the brake pad spacing in the caliper). I'm thinking that's too slim of a space for any flex. Would a 183mm or 185mm bracket adapter do the trick here (its a 180 mm there now)? I'm not sure exactly how much room I should have, an extra 3mm or 5mm (I didnt make note of how the stock set up looked like 
)?
Thanks for the link telek, I might have to get those smaller spacers as the ones I received with my 9C motor are deforming when tightened and placed on the inside of the drop out.
)? Thanks for the link telek, I might have to get those smaller spacers as the ones I received with my 9C motor are deforming when tightened and placed on the inside of the drop out.
The pad should wipe the rotor outer ring without hanging too far over the inner or outer edges. Kind of hard to tell, but that looks like your pad is a bit shy of the rotor edge...
No problem if you want to space it out a bit:
Add stainless 6mm washers to each brake adapter mounting bolt to relocate the caliper outward (local Ace Hardware store). A 'typical' 6mm washer is around 1.5mm so one should be fine.
No problem if you want to space it out a bit:
Add stainless 6mm washers to each brake adapter mounting bolt to relocate the caliper outward (local Ace Hardware store). A 'typical' 6mm washer is around 1.5mm so one should be fine.
Thanks for clear picture! Yes I thought of a washer too but thought there may be a greater than zero chance of a safety issue, I just got a180mm mount adapter from my LBS, I can prolly exchange for a 183mm or 185mm for no more money, so that would add about an additional 1.5 (like the washer suggestion) and 2.5 mm of space respectively, either should be okay? Id rather use the correct sized mount rather than washers if I can get away with it. The front stock rotors (160mm rotor, different caliper, havent switched them yet) seem to be sitting at least 3mm from the bottom. Im prolly at 0.5 mm from the bottom in the rear right now.
No safety issue at all - this is not an uncommon practice. The arrangement does not compromise the strength of the adapter attachment (one or two washers still leaves adequate bolt thread engagement) and will not promote loosening (won't oxidize or deteriorate to reduce bolt tension/torque).
That said, if you have ready access to the other adapters and they make you more comfortable, then there's your answer -- confidence in the safety and robustness of your handiwork will give an ongoing payback in peace of mind. Otherwise, don't give it a thought and get that puppy on the road...
That said, if you have ready access to the other adapters and they make you more comfortable, then there's your answer -- confidence in the safety and robustness of your handiwork will give an ongoing payback in peace of mind. Otherwise, don't give it a thought and get that puppy on the road...
FWIW: I'm not a fan of anecdotal evidence as 'proof', but I've had the identical washer addition in my previous build for 13000+ mi with hard stops and long downhill braking of a 350lb bike from 40+mph (180mm BB7s). A newer build has washers on the other adapter mounting bolts to adjust the L/R caliper offset for a wider more centered adjustment range...
Stuff sometimes needs a little help to line up just right
dogman dan
1 PW
Wierd it's too deep now,, but once you get into adapters anything can happen.
Washers, or a different adapter and deepen the dropout 1 mm is what I'd do. But again,, if you plan to ever convert the bike back to pedal to sell it, leave the dropout alone.
Washers, or a different adapter and deepen the dropout 1 mm is what I'd do. But again,, if you plan to ever convert the bike back to pedal to sell it, leave the dropout alone.
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