Coming from an RC background, most people say that any motor temperature under 160° F is great. Anything over 200° F is killing the motor. Since Ive only built 2 EVs to date, I was curious over this. According to a lot of research, pending on the insulation levels, some motors are safe to 300°C! I have a 48V 21A 1000W ZY1020 brushed motor with 48V 30A 1000W controller, using 2 6S 13A 35C lipos in series in one of my builds. I have it geared for more speed so that means less torque and more heat, speed equals amps, do doubt about it. I always use an IR gun to monitor temps after a run to get an idea what gear ratio to use. Ive always done this with my RC trucks, quads, planes and now EVs. Im only measuring on the outside of the can at the hottest point. Im pushing 150°F at the hottest spot on this ZY1020 motor. Seems fine and dont seem to have any issues. Controller and battery temps are fine. Granted its hotter on the inside of the motor, but what temps are you guys running at? Is there a rule of thumb for EVs like there is for RCs?
Motor Temperatures
- Thread starter Joecool
- Start date
Drunkskunk
100 GW
The weak point is the magnets. Neodymium magnets come in many specified heat ranges, but the ones used in most ebike motors have a max working temp of 80C, ( 176F ) and will be toast at 100C ( 212F )
You can get the Stator temp up much higher, as long as you can keep the heat out of the magnets
You can get the Stator temp up much higher, as long as you can keep the heat out of the magnets
Rubber seals on the sides of the Chinese bearings, plus Chinese wire insulation may not actually be of the level of quality that is written on them (PVC?).
Two words: "Chinese solder".
Also, if you are frequently converting your battery watts into more than 200F /93C of heat, I would suggest that you might gain significantly more battery pack range by upgrading the drive-design to one that is more efficient at your user-profile loads.
Two words: "Chinese solder".
Also, if you are frequently converting your battery watts into more than 200F /93C of heat, I would suggest that you might gain significantly more battery pack range by upgrading the drive-design to one that is more efficient at your user-profile loads.
dogman dan
1 PW
Anything under 200F at the stator seems pretty safe,, but measuring the outside,, you are about there with 150F. I never measured the magnet temps, but suspect they also run a least 50F less than stator, for direct drive bike hub motors that have the magnets on the outside.
By 250F inside,, you start seeing the varnish on the windings scorch black, and you can start cooking off your halls. I've fried some bike hub motors,, and my experience is that cooking off the halls generally happens first. But if you spike the heat fast enough,ooking out your magnets can happen too.
By 250F inside,, you start seeing the varnish on the windings scorch black, and you can start cooking off your halls. I've fried some bike hub motors,, and my experience is that cooking off the halls generally happens first. But if you spike the heat fast enough,ooking out your magnets can happen too.
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