Need New Bike - what would be best for my situation?

[Lurkin]

Some time ago, I made the exact same decision. I pinched pennies. I went hard tail.

I regret it. I consider buying half measures like suspension seat posts is throwing good money away after bad. Some might be satisfied with it, but it's not really comparable to a full suspension bike.

I also went 29er. I would not do so again. Just because it is convenient or cost effective does not necessarily make it a good call in the long run. I found I'm not as confident through tight spots. Would revert to 26er or 27.5", 26er being the preference.

I would not buy a steel framed bike because of its weight. However, it has other advantages - if it cracks in the middle of no where, you have a higher chance of getting it welded well enough to get home.

The most relevant research you can do has nothing to do with what is written on this forum. Go out and try as many bikes as you can - go to bike shops, borrow mates bikes, read posts to see what other people like and why. Maybe the weight of a steel bike is acceptable to you, but not to me. Maybe you prefer hydraulic disc brakes (as I do) to mechanical discs or rim brakes or maybe you weigh less are are not concerned about the rims going out of true and constantly rubbing (as they did for me)

It's tempting in the beginning to just ask on here because it gets a quick, justified answer. But really you should be more concerned with making up your mind based on real experience. I would definitely be taking a decent full suspension bikes out for a ride from the bike shop before going down the path you are currently headed. Further, testing a bike with the suspension/seatpost suspension you are proposing would also be a good idea. You can compare them and make a decision between them, regardless of price or other people's opinions.

It might be worth considering whether you need to save more money over time?

These days I'm more concerned about figuring out what attributes are important to me, then trying to find a bike that meets them, then trying to make it cheap. I think you will end up spending far more in the long run because you have made the decision in the reverse order, with less reliance on real experience (which is exactly what I did).

 

[Raged]

Im in the 29er crowd but it depends what youre using the bike for. 29er as a x-country and commuter is perfect. Big fat puncture proof cushion tires and cruising speed of 30mph on a strong frame is a great feeling.

have a look at my build thread to get any ideas. I beleive with the 700c wheel you dont even need to relace the mac (as 700c and 29er is the same rim).

 

[motomech]

Some time ago, I made the exact same decision. I pinched pennies. I went hard tail.

I regret it. I consider buying half measures like suspension seat posts is throwing good money away after bad. Some might be satisfied with it, but it's not really comparable to a full suspension bike.

I also went 29er. I would not do so again. Just because it is convenient or cost effective does not necessarily make it a good call in the long run. I found I'm not as confident through tight spots. Would revert to 26er or 27.5", 26er being the preference.

I would not buy a steel framed bike because of its weight. However, it has other advantages - if it cracks in the middle of no where, you have a higher chance of getting it welded well enough to get home.

The most relevant research you can do has nothing to do with what is written on this forum. Go out and try as many bikes as you can - go to bike shops, borrow mates bikes, read posts to see what other people like and why. Maybe the weight of a steel bike is acceptable to you, but not to me. Maybe you prefer hydraulic disc brakes (as I do) to mechanical discs or rim brakes or maybe you weigh less are are not concerned about the rims going out of true and constantly rubbing (as they did for me)

It's tempting in the beginning to just ask on here because it gets a quick, justified answer. But really you should be more concerned with making up your mind based on real experience. I would definitely be taking a decent full suspension bikes out for a ride from the bike shop before going down the path you are currently headed. Further, testing a bike with the suspension/seatpost suspension you are proposing would also be a good idea. You can compare them and make a decision between them, regardless of price or other people's opinions.

It might be worth considering whether you need to save more money over time?

These days I'm more concerned about figuring out what attributes are important to me, then trying to find a bike that meets them, then trying to make it cheap. I think you will end up spending far more in the long run because you have made the decision in the reverse order, with less reliance on real experience (which is exactly what I did).

Wonderfully insightful post!

I also went 29er. I would not do so again. Just because it is convenient or cost effective does not necessarily make it a good call in the long run. I found I'm not as confident through tight spots. Would revert to 26er or 27.5", 26er being the preference.

In 1981, Honda startled the motorcycling world by equipping the CR motocross and XR/XL enduro models with a 23" front wheel. If a 21" wheel provided more stability than a 19" wheel, why wouldn't a 23 " provide more of the same? Well, it did climb over logs and other trail obstacles better, but unexpectedly(for Honda at I presume), problems crept in on sweeping turns, when "top-heaviness" of the wheel ASM overcame the natural 'self-centering" precessional forces. The tire would "bite", but as the bike was leaned over farther, the wheel would fall-in, creating an effect of the wheel "sawing".
Now I understand the dynamic forces at work differ from bicycle to motorcycle, but still, at what point does a bicycle wheel/tire ASM become too tall for secure low-speed turning?

One way to divide Ebike usage into two routes on life's highway is to classify them into commuters, those that are transportation, and hobby bikes.
As one in the latter category, my prioritized "needs" have evolved. I have overcome "range anxiely" and reduced pack sizes. I have had my speed thrills and now except, for me, "calming speeds" are more enjoyable than riding on the "edge".
Now, the one thing that preoccupies me is comfort, the ability to go longer before the wrists ache, before "butt burn" sets in, etc. And to this end, I have never doubted my original decision to go full suspension was the right one.
When I'm taking a break and casting my eyes lovingly along by bike, they linger on the deceivingly simple air shock with it's beautiful brushed alum. link and wonder at how well the system works. And wonder why everyone wouldn't want to have this system between their butt and the road?

 

[javi]

Thanks for all the posts and insight. Someday, I might go to full suspension, but I use my bike for utility hauler a lot, and putting a solid rear rack on the bike is pretty important to me. I also have a huge amount ($900) invested in a really big battery that I need and is shaped in a triangle, so my options for full suspension is pretty limited (although they are out there).

I found some bikes. To keep it simple, I wrote my posts above like I just needed one bike, but I really need to do the same switch for my bike and my wife's. Same thought process either way since we have same system and issues (both systems are mounted to touring bikes).

This forum has been great - but it is true that after reading everyone's thoughts and tons of other info, I needed to get out and look at bikes. Lucky for me, two hours away in Madison, WI there are a couple of used bike shops with lots of selection. I think I found two bikes that will work:

- For me, I found a 1995ish TREK 850 SHX. This bike came with front shocks and is nice steel frame. It has 1 1/8 steering tube, but currently has threaded suspension fork and stem. But I can change out headset and then use threadless down the line. This was complete bike for $100

- For the wife, i found a 1995ish TREK 930 that came factory with shocks and is a nice steel frame. Currently has ROCK SHOX INDY Forks that seem to be in good shape. Comes with 1 1/8 threadless headset and a mostly complete bike was $115.

I think both these bikes will get me where I think I want to be. Of course, when I get there I might change my mind. Thanks for all the help and ideas - it was super helpful to get feedback and to think things through. Hopefully I made a decent call with these bikes...

 

[nutnspecial]

Excellent to hear the awesome deals you got on some solid bikes. As I said, I loved my 830, and it was less upgradable than those. (in fact, my dad still has it- I'm tempted to take it for a ride. It was so solid and responsive!, and it would feel like a feather compared to this frankenstein I've created :lol: ) I def think you made a good choice.
Good deal, have fun!