New Bafang Crank-Drives

opperpanter said:
tomjasz said:
Opperpanter, How long is this commute? My BBS01 does 20 and no where near that heat. Do you know what the motor is drawing in Watts?
5km (added it to my post). Display indicates around 500Watts @ 48V750W.

WOW! That's stunning given a 7 mile/11km trip running 18-20 gives me a barely warm to the touch case. I have a temp sensor and a external IR thermometer. I haven't bothered to install the temp sensor yet. I'll check it again, with the ir thermometer, to get some real numbers. But I don't think I'll get 50C/122F.
 
The difference in temperature maybe down to gear selection, it is real easy to overload the crankdrive by using too high a gear.
My BBS01 is warm (a long way from hot) after a 16 km ride with lots of hills and no rider assist, plus the last km is all up hill.
I keep the gears set to allow the motor to be spinning the pedals at about 80 rpm or more, your power usage skyrockets at lower rpm's reducing range and heating the motor.
 
Geebee said:
The difference in temperature maybe down to gear selection, it is real easy to overload the crankdrive by using too high a gear.
My BBS01 is warm (a long way from hot) after a 16 km ride with lots of hills and no rider assist, plus the last km is all up hill.
I keep the gears set to allow the motor to be spinning the pedals at about 80 rpm or more, your power usage skyrockets at lower rpm's reducing range and heating the motor.
At 44Tx15T and 20mph cadence is 90, so that can't be an issue.
 
Does anyone have an idea how the fan would be hooked up to the BBS02 drive in picture which I posted on page 171? Is there a way to allow for the difference between the controller and case heat and have a thermostatically activated fan kick in when a predetermined range is reached?
It is hot here most of the year - but the motor is going to get a lot hotter without airflow. The fish tank thermometer looked the berries but I'd rather not crack the case unless absolutely necessary.
 
Either of these.
http://www.banggood.com/DC-12V-50-to-110-Temperature-Control-Switch-Heat-Cool-Temp-p-933303.html
http://www.banggood.com/DC-12V-Digital-Led-Thermostat-Temperature-Controller-p-979313.html
And if you want to run it off your motor pack one of these if you are running 48v or more.
http://www.banggood.com/Motorcycle-Electric-Cars-48V-60V-to-12V-DC-Converter-p-959438.html

You could run it of a seperate 12v battery if desired as the fans draw very little power, most draw 200 to 500 ma so you could just wire it up to run constantly and skip the thermostat with a small seperate pack or off the converter above.
 
Recently decided to convert my steel mtn bike to an ebike. Because I eventually want to use this kit on a cargo bike (yet to be purchased) and the area i live in is fairly hilly (Seattle) I was aiming towards the 750W. I was going to purchase the kit from em3ev.com but the biggest frame battery they sell for the 750W is 9.8Ah. I like the convenience of the frame pack (lockable, low COG, etc). I contacted em3ev and they suggested going with the 36V BBS02 500W, for which they have a 16Ah frame pack.

Can anyone give me some insight on this decision? In a practical sense, how much is lost by dropping down to the 36V 500W motor?

Thanks!
 
judson said:
Recently decided to convert my steel mtn bike to an ebike. Because I eventually want to use this kit on a cargo bike (yet to be purchased) and the area i live in is fairly hilly (Seattle) I was aiming towards the 750W. I was going to purchase the kit from em3ev.com but the biggest frame battery they sell for the 750W is 9.8Ah. I like the convenience of the frame pack (lockable, low COG, etc). I contacted em3ev and they suggested going with the 36V BBS02 500W, for which they have a 16Ah frame pack.

Can anyone give me some insight on this decision? In a practical sense, how much is lost by dropping down to the 36V 500W motor?

Thanks!

I run BBS01 36V 350W. Properly geared they run 20MPH without excess heat. I'd guess based on my 13.8Ah EM3ev batt you'd easily get 25-30 miles, and comfortable run at 20MPH. I'd call it great choice. I'd spend a few extra bucks and buy from California eBikes. That way you have USA support.
 
tomjasz said:
judson said:
Recently decided to convert my steel mtn bike to an ebike. Because I eventually want to use this kit on a cargo bike (yet to be purchased) and the area i live in is fairly hilly (Seattle) I was aiming towards the 750W. I was going to purchase the kit from em3ev.com but the biggest frame battery they sell for the 750W is 9.8Ah. I like the convenience of the frame pack (lockable, low COG, etc). I contacted em3ev and they suggested going with the 36V BBS02 500W, for which they have a 16Ah frame pack.

Can anyone give me some insight on this decision? In a practical sense, how much is lost by dropping down to the 36V 500W motor?

Thanks!

I run BBS01 36V 350W. Properly geared they run 20MPH without excess heat. I'd guess based on my 13.8Ah EM3ev batt you'd easily get 25-30 miles, and comfortable run at 20MPH. I'd call it great choice. I'd spend a few extra bucks and buy from California eBikes. That way you have USA support.
I think that the 36V500W will provide all you need, unless you are hauling up lots of cargo up 15% hills.
I have limited my 48V750W to 500W to prevent too much heat.
 
opperpanter said:
Recently I installed my 2nd BBS02 unit on one of my bikes.

It seems to have a bottom bracket between 68mm and 73mm. Can't make up what it officially is. If I measure it, it's 68mm. But considering the fact that I need 2 washers to be able to put the BBS02 on, it looks more like 73m.

Anyway, I can't get the motor to stick in position. It keeps moving (turning) a bit. I think it's because the washers are not of the exact perfect thickness, causing the mounting plate that is locked by the lock ring to be not perfectly aligned.



It's a bit difficult to see, but I guess it's a common issue. Just have to find the righ combination of washers to make the alignment right?

Or is there something else I should be checking? I tried fastening the grey lock ring very firmly, but that's not good enough.

No problems on my other bike with a 68mm BB. Sorry if this is already mentioned somewhere in the 170 pages before this one.
HE WENT DOWN FROM 2 to 1 WASHER AND YOU'RE NOT GONNA BELIEVE WHAT HAPPENED NEXT (clickbait)

I went down from 2 washers to 1... when you put the plate on without the grey lock ring, the angle just looks completely wrong.
But.... when you tighten the grey lock ring, it seems to all fall into place and connect nice and tight.
Motor seems locked into place now :)
I assume the motor force only wants to turn the motor forwards, against the bottom tube?
Only force that is trying to pull it back/down is gravity, when motor is idle?
In that case I should be fine now!
 
judson said:
Recently decided to convert my steel mtn bike to an ebike. Because I eventually want to use this kit on a cargo bike (yet to be purchased) and the area i live in is fairly hilly (Seattle) I was aiming towards the 750W. I was going to purchase the kit from em3ev.com but the biggest frame battery they sell for the 750W is 9.8Ah. I like the convenience of the frame pack (lockable, low COG, etc). I contacted em3ev and they suggested going with the 36V BBS02 500W, for which they have a 16Ah frame pack.

Can anyone give me some insight on this decision? In a practical sense, how much is lost by dropping down to the 36V 500W motor?

Thanks!

I had my old steel MTB with 26" wheels converted to an ebike with the 500W Bafang BBS02/36V 16AH setup and I've been commuting to Seattle (hills and all) with ease. Started riding in March and have put over 1200 miles on it. Granted I don't have a cargo bike, or even panniers, but my setup is not the lightest... I weigh 170 lbs and the bike weighs about 50 lbs. Also I've never rode a 750W so I can't speak to that either. But if you plan on pedaling and using those gears I would think it would work out well; with the benefit of being able to go much further with those extra AH.
 
judson said:
Recently decided to convert my steel mtn bike to an ebike. Because I eventually want to use this kit on a cargo bike (yet to be purchased) and the area i live in is fairly hilly (Seattle) I was aiming towards the 750W. I was going to purchase the kit from em3ev.com but the biggest frame battery they sell for the 750W is 9.8Ah. I like the convenience of the frame pack (lockable, low COG, etc). I contacted em3ev and they suggested going with the 36V BBS02 500W, for which they have a 16Ah frame pack.

Can anyone give me some insight on this decision? In a practical sense, how much is lost by dropping down to the 36V 500W motor?

Thanks!
.

I have both a 48v 500w and a 48v 750w. The 500w is on an EZip steel frame that is quite heavy. It has tons of pulling power and I do hills in 3rd gear with no problem. I have the 750w on a 26" steel fat bike and while the top speed isn't as high because of the lower gearing it too has tons of power and I still use 3rd gear for hills. Both bikes will actually accelerate going up hill in any gear. The point I am making is a lot depends on your bikes gearing and what top speed your looking for. My 500w maxes out at 29mph while my 750w maxes out at 24mph. It's mostly because of the gearing.

As for power consumption; if I ride conservatively I burn about .23WHs/mile. When I ride them hard I burn about .33WHs/mile. Please note I do at most 25% assisted peddling. Meaning I have bad knees so I do as little peddling as I can. I ride with twin 24v 20ah packs (48v 20ah). But they are heavy and like you I prefer a lighter down tube pack. So I just ordered a 48v 9.8ah. down tube pack from California EBikes. Doug has them on sale right now for $699 + shipping. For my type of riding I expect it to be fine.

It sounds like you are trying to make your motor chose based on what battery is available to you. But be sure your really need the added battery size. A 9.8ah pack run to a 75% will give you 7.35ah of usable power. Even at .5ah per mile your in the 15 mile range. Personally, I like POWER!! :D

Bob
 
Fan cooling the controller into the case would not be effective. All the silicone potting compound insulates the electronics, and also gets between the FETS and case.
 
dumbass said:
It sounds like you are trying to make your motor chose based on what battery is available to you. But be sure your really need the added battery size. A 9.8ah pack run to a 75% will give you 7.35ah of usable power.

Bob

This is a very astute point. I have heard such wildly different 'rules of thumb' for the Wh/mile that people claim, it is hard to be sure that I am going to make it to work. My commute is only 10 miles each way. On the way to work I was looking for more assistance so I don't arrive all sweated out. On the way home, I'll be looking to get a work out.
 
I have a BBS02, 750 watt, Bafang mid drive on my mountain bike that is 18 months old. It originally came with a 500 watt controller, though it wasn't listed as such, but the max amps were always exactly 18. When the new controller became available last year I bought one from Paul and put it on, noticing immediately a really big increase in power. It was great. But then....

Occasionally, when peddling hard, and using a high assist setting there will occasionally be sudden grinding slip-like noises coming from the motor. Sounds bad. I don't believe that this is coming from the sprocket/chain/freewheel drive train, as it happens when in a constant gear. I have a quite new drive train, so no wear factors. The only variable is that it happens only under high power settings. If I go on a long ride on #2 out of 5, it never happens. If I want to go really fast in setting #5 it will happen as soon as I really pedal hard.

The motor sounds normal, other than what I've described. If anyone can help, Im all ears and very appreciative.
I'm tempted to take the motor apart, but don't know what I'm looking for.
thanks,
Nick
 
:| :|
speedmd said:
You should post on the fault /fixes thread, but does it only happen in the smaller rear cogs? Does sound like chain jumping teeth.
+1

Mine occasionally does it on the 11T, PAS 5 plus hard pedaling. It will skip a cog or two until it settles down. I find it only happens when I shift through many gears quickly to the 11T cog though.

Ensure your 'b' tension screw is adjusted properly on the rear derailleur.
 
NFN01 said:
Hi All

New Member here. But Have been following this thread and the Programming thread.

I have just put a BBS02 750W on my KMX Venom recumbent trike. Power source is 48V 15Ah LiFePo4 with BMS split across the rear panniers.

Not fully installed yet. But have done 20 miles worth of testing and the battery indicator is still showing full. Had 30mph on 38T to 11T gear selection.

I have also got dual front chain ring setup. 48T-38T on a spider adapter with a 3mm spacer ring between the spider and motor output hub.
I have also got round the front derailleur not being able to reach the outer chain ring. When the bafang motor is fitted the BB
effectively becomes a 100mm BB with the final output gear housing being in the same position as the small chainring position on a triple setup.
So started looking at the fatbike market for a solution, and found a UK based company that makes a seatube bracket that
allows the fitment of the shimano high direct mount series of front derailleur mechs. The bracket moves the mech out further
to compensate for the wider BB on a fatbike. My problem solved.

This solution make not work on a normal DF bike. My chainline is not an issue so this works.

Got a programming cable so will start experimenting once the installation is fully complete.

In the new year plan to upgrade the rear transmission to a Nuvinci N360 with Harmony.

Hi all

Upgrade nearly completed. Running with N360 hub now, just awaiting fallbrook to sort out my harmony unit.
The BBS02 and N360 are working perfectly together, I only use the throttle so I have control of how much and when I need
motor assist. I can get the perfect balance of motor power/speed, pedalling power/cadence, and the right ratio to be in
for the riding conditions/terrain. I'm finding now I'm shifting regularly without even really thinking about it to maintain
a comfortable balance.
Also having the double at the front brings the n360s overall ratio range in excess of the rolhoff 14 speed hub. Despite having a fairly large over lap (38T/48T)
Top speed achieved so far is just under 37mph on smooth flat road cadence peaked at 106. (I couldn't pedal any faster without inducing serious pedal steer).
Iv'e also noticed I use a bit less motor than pre-hub days to the tune of about an extra 15 miles range on a charge. Increasing from the usual 50 miles to 65 or so.
The maximum uphill gradient I can climb is a 17% (1:5) on the 48T and full hub under drive. I haven't tried anything much steeper yet but would definitely have
to drop to the 38T front ring. It also runs and works great on off road trails

But overall the BBS02 is a great piece of kit if you are prepared to keep it regularly serviced and lubricated. I've now have a complete set of bearings and other motor internals.
And a spare controller. I have limited my controllers to 20A (A must) and trimmed the throttle settings to my preference. I don't use PAS at all.
Combined with the N360 it is an awesome ride compared to what it used to be. Hill climb shifting is now a doddle and no nasty noises from the rear end anymore.
Can't wait for the auto mode on the harmony system when it arrives.

I have also been given a dead 48V 500W motor (Controller failure, motor OK). I plan the de-pot the dead 500W controller and replace the MOSFETs with more beefy ones.
If I upgrade the MOSFETs to higher current rated ones, does anything need to be upgraded on the 500W controller PCB? (In other words can I convert the 500W to 750W by just upgrading the MOSFETs?)
And with the upgraded MOSFETs, can I up the current limit beyond the original 18A using the software?

Also can my spare 750W controller be fitted to and run the 500W motor?
My assumption is the 500W and 750W versions share the same motor but have controllers with different current rated MOSFETs. Am I correct?
Or does the factory shipped 500W have a software de-rated 25A 750W controller?

I will add a couple pictures of my heavily modified KMX to my next post.

Thanks in advance for any answers you guys can give

N
 
I can't comment on fets upgrade but I can tell you I just installed one of the newest 750w 25A controllers on my 2year old 500w. I did a 15 mile test ride yesterday and it ran perfect. My screen on the older kit is a 961 model. Even the setup through the 961 was straight forward just as before. I wasn't sure how the setup would go because the "0" setting is throttle controlled and I have for throttle available on a settings 0 through 9.

Bob
 
LyonNightroad said:
opperpanter said:
Anybody managed to find/create a thumb/twist throttle with cruise control for the BBS0x?
I am also interested in this.
Paul/cellman told me this isn't possible with the bbs0x because the controller doesn't support it.
Wouldn't it be possible to create something that sends a fixed/chosen voltage the controller?
Even a 3 speed switch would be something.
 
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