New Bafang Crank-Drives

Somebodystopme,

Can you post a picture of the connection to the USB-to-serial (TTL)?
It appears as if that step is missing, from this thread.
It would be nice to see the entire picture of the TTL and cable end in one shot.

This is excellent info. Thanks for all your work and sharing. It's going to help a lot of us, drive sales of the product and then speed up improvements.

Chalz
 
Chalz said:
Somebodystopme,

Can you post a picture of the connection to the USB-to-serial (TTL)?
It appears as if that step is missing, from this thread.
It would be nice to see the entire picture of the TTL and cable end in one shot.

This is excellent info. Thanks for all your work and sharing. It's going to help a lot of us, drive sales of the product and then speed up improvements.

Chalz

Here is a pic of my serial ttl with the 3 pinouts.

It's really very simple.

USB-TTL. motor Controller plug
Ground -------------------Ground
TX --------------------------RX
RX --------------------------TX
Short PL and P+ together

Turn on your battery and your controller is ready to program.

It seems like a lot if people are having issues with the USB-TTL's. Once you get your laptop/Tablet to "See" the serial port with the software open. Then you connect your cables as shown above and your in.

You do not need to have battery voltage on to see the serial port in the software. You should be able to see that with just the USB TTL plugged into the laptop. It does not need to be connected to the bike in order to get that up.

You will never get a cable/software package from the vendor unless you become a dealer. It a liable thing.

Keep in mind we are experimenting with an expensive price of equipment. All I really wanted is to have WOT at level 0 PAS. Now I have it. I have no intention of hot rodding or over volting it. Which seems like it's very possible now. The vendor doesn't want to warranty shorted control boards.
image.jpg
 
BTW, does anyone know of a source for the waterproof plugs used on the BBS02?

I'm looking for a source of the female plugs seen here on the left to make up some programming cables for everyone.
image.jpg
 
Somebodystopme!! said:
Chalz said:
Somebodystopme,

Can you post a picture of the connection to the USB-to-serial (TTL)?
It appears as if that step is missing, from this thread.
It would be nice to see the entire picture of the TTL and cable end in one shot.

This is excellent info. Thanks for all your work and sharing. It's going to help a lot of us, drive sales of the product and then speed up improvements.

Chalz

Here is a pic of my serial ttl with the 3 pinouts.

It's really very simple.

USB-TTL. motor Controller plug
Ground -------------------Ground
TX --------------------------RX
RX --------------------------TX
Short PL and P+ together

Turn on your battery and your controller is ready to program.

It seems like a lot if people are having issues with the USB-TTL's. Once you get your laptop/Tablet to "See" the serial port with the software open. Then you connect your cables as shown above and your in.

You do not need to have battery voltage on to see the serial port in the software. You should be able to see that with just the USB TTL plugged into the laptop. It does not need to be connected to the bike in order to get that up.

You will never get a cable/software package from the vendor unless you become a dealer. It a liable thing.

Keep in mind we are experimenting with an expensive price of equipment. All I really wanted is to have WOT at level 0 PAS. Now I have it. I have no intention of hot rodding or over volting it. Which seems like it's very possible now. The vendor doesn't want to warranty shorted control boards.
Somebodybuythisguyabeer. :D
 
pjgold said:
+1 I have the exact same set up, throttle on the left alfine shifter on the right.

Yep...like so:
image.jpg

Note the plastic cable housing bending to left... But cable fits neatly around under brake lever and the left bent housing is out of the way.
 
I wonder if anyone has any idea whether or not BMW's bike is using a 68mm or 73mm bottom bracket? This is their 2014 Cruise bike and I'm in love with it, I might just order it this week and slap the Bafang on it.

It's got everything I want on it. Decent shocks, 30 speeds! Shimano Deore. And the price, believe it or not is only around $1200 USD.. I think the frame design and components are better if not equal to Giant's Talon or Specialized Sirrus. Besides, I like the "BMW" badge. :D

How about that chain line? Do you guys think its adequately long enough? BTW, BMW has this bike paired with a Bosch drive and battery. It's sick looking too but they're asking $3700 USD. No thanks..
 

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nukezero said:
I wonder if anyone has any idea whether or not BMW's bike is using a 68mm or 73mm bottom bracket? This is their 2014 Cruise bike and I'm in love with it, I might just order it this week and slap the Bafang on it.

It's got everything I want on it. Decent shocks, 30 speeds! Shimano Deore. And the price, believe it or not is only around $1200 USD.. I think the frame design and components are better if not equal to Giant's Talon or Specialized Sirrus. Besides, I like the "BMW" badge. :D

lol...I prefer the Ferrari bicycle

http://www.bikeexchange.com.au/a/road-bikes/colnago/vic/castlemaine/colnago-ferrari-cf-1/100385562

http://store.ferrari.com/en/product/show/44329
 
Melbourne said:
nukezero said:
I wonder if anyone has any idea whether or not BMW's bike is using a 68mm or 73mm bottom bracket? This is their 2014 Cruise bike and I'm in love with it, I might just order it this week and slap the Bafang on it.

It's got everything I want on it. Decent shocks, 30 speeds! Shimano Deore. And the price, believe it or not is only around $1200 USD.. I think the frame design and components are better if not equal to Giant's Talon or Specialized Sirrus. Besides, I like the "BMW" badge. :D

lol...I prefer the Ferrari bicycle

http://www.bikeexchange.com.au/a/road-bikes/colnago/vic/castlemaine/colnago-ferrari-cf-1/100385562

http://store.ferrari.com/en/product/show/44329

nice bike too, but I need something with a slightly more upright riding position. That Ferrari is has wayyy too many color schemes on it.
 
I've been off the forum for awhile and actually ordered a Bafang BBS02 48v 750w. After making my order I decided to check the forum to see if there was any info on these new motors. To my surprise I found this thread. Had I known there was a US supplier I'd rather have gone that way because right now I'm not sure what I actually received. And I likely have no support if there's a problem.

I placed my order with someone on EBay that had 1 each (48v 500w and 48v 740w). I ordered on 4/17 and received shipping conformation on Easter Sunday. The unit arrived this morning DHL. So 7 days from order to delivery (China to Chicago). Cost was $450 + $105 shipping. I'm assuming there was no import taxes.

I spent about an 1 1/2 to remove the old crank system and install the new motor. Half of that time was to sand and file the bore slightly on the bottom bracket. Other then that it was a no brainer. I plan on doing the electrical connections tomorrow.

I know someone indicated how to tell when your system was made but I don't want to search back 91 pages for it again. So if someone could just tell me what I got I'd appreciate it.

The info on the motor is as follows;

BBS02
48v 750w (20a) I The info on EBay said it was a 25a controller

1403180895
K5ECROF0206
14031097
With a C961 screen

From what I remember reading the 14031097 tells me the unit was made in March, 2014 but I don't remember what the last 4 # mean?

Bob

EDIT: I think my locking rings are different. The first ring is a thick steel ring that requires a spanner wrench to tighten. The second ring is a plastic "cup" ring that can only be hand tightened over the first ring.
 
I searched BBS02 number code and shazam!

All motors have the first four digits as the date code. First 2 digits are the year, second two digits are the month then the next 6 digits are the serial number.
 
dumbass said:
I've been off the forum for awhile and actually ordered a Bafang BBS02 48v 750w. After making my order I decided to check the forum to see if there was any info on these new motors. To my surprise I found this thread. Had I known there was a US supplier I'd rather have gone that way because right now I'm not sure what I actually received. And I likely have no support if there's a problem.

I placed my order with someone on EBay that had 1 each (48v 500w and 48v 740w). I ordered on 4/17 and received shipping conformation on Easter Sunday. The unit arrived this morning DHL. So 7 days from order to delivery (China to Chicago). Cost was $450 + $105 shipping. I'm assuming there was no import taxes.

I spent about an 1 1/2 to remove the old crank system and install the new motor. Half of that time was to sand and file the bore slightly on the bottom bracket. Other then that it was a no brainer. I plan on doing the electrical connections tomorrow.

I know someone indicated how to tell when your system was made but I don't want to search back 91 pages for it again. So if someone could just tell me what I got I'd appreciate it.

The info on the motor is as follows;

BBS02
48v 750w (20a) I The info on EBay said it was a 25a controller

1403180895
K5ECROF0206
14031097
With a C961 screen

From what I remember reading the 14031097 tells me the unit was made in March, 2014 but I don't remember what the last 4 # mean?

Bob

EDIT: I think my locking rings are different. The first ring is a thick steel ring that requires a spanner wrench to tighten. The second ring is a plastic "cup" ring that can only be hand tightened over the first ring.

Bafang most recently modified the controller amp to tune it down on the 750w 48v. The original one was 25Amps, yes. But they are tuning it down a bit so it doesn't overheat. You have 20A, so that appears to be the new fresh batch! :D Can you tell us who the seller is on eBay ? I may considering ordering one now from them...
 
Thanks for the info guys. Knowing it's likely the newest model makes me feel a little better.

I bought it from fyiebikes on EBay. I checked his store and it looks like he only has 2 units right now a 36v 250w and a 48v 500w. Here's the link to his store and the 2 unit he has. But who knows, there could be other suppiers on EBay now.

Bob

http://www.ebay.com/sch/diyebike/m.html?item=321379910433&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l4064

http://www.ebay.com/itm/36v-250w-8fun-bafang-motor-BBS01-crank-Motor-eletric-bicycles-trike-ebike-kits-/221414689602?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&var=&hash=item338d580b42

http://www.ebay.com/itm/48V-500w-8fun-bafang-motor-BBS02-crank-Motor-eletric-bicycles-trike-ebike-kits-/221421202706?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&var=&hash=item338dbb6d12
 
dumbass said:
EDIT: I think my locking rings are different. The first ring is a thick steel ring that requires a spanner wrench to tighten. The second ring is a plastic "cup" ring that can only be hand tightened over the first ring.

Sure that's plastic?

I just got a set of new lock rings and the black over ring is aluminum.

It should take a standard shimano BB spanner... But its only aluminum... So not too tight.
 
nukezero said:
I wonder if anyone has any idea whether or not BMW's bike is using a 68mm or 73mm bottom bracket? This is their 2014 Cruise bike and I'm in love with it, I might just order it this week and slap the Bafang on it.

It's got everything I want on it. Decent shocks, 30 speeds! Shimano Deore. And the price, believe it or not is only around $1200 USD.. I think the frame design and components are better if not equal to Giant's Talon or Specialized Sirrus. Besides, I like the "BMW" badge. :D

How about that chain line? Do you guys think its adequately long enough? BTW, BMW has this bike paired with a Bosch drive and battery. It's sick looking too but they're asking $3700 USD. No thanks..

The only issue I see is with the down tube swinging parallel to the ground. The Bafang hangs below the Bracket...swiveled forward against the down tube. On the bike pictured, the motor will hang pretty low because of the angle of the down tube. This is not an issue except if you plan to hop curbs and such which might result in a motor strike in concrete.
 
sculptingman said:
dumbass said:
EDIT: I think my locking rings are different. The first ring is a thick steel ring that requires a spanner wrench to tighten. The second ring is a plastic "cup" ring that can only be hand tightened over the first ring.

Sure that's plastic?

I just got a set of new lock rings and the black over ring is aluminum.

It should take a standard shimano BB spanner... But its only aluminum... So not too tight.

You are correct O'Wise One :oops: I touched it with a mini file this morning to check and it is indeed Alm. But while it may take a standard spanner it's not one in my tool kit. So I just tightened it with my hand while holding a peace of emery paper.

As for the ground clearance, on my cheap 26" Alm. bike I have 7" from bottom of motor to the ground. About 1" lower then the crank sprocket. That's a lot higher then my Cyclone drive was and I don't remember it ever hitting a curb. I ride 95% forest preserve trails and they are ether paved or at the very least smooth stoned. Only issue comes in when crossing a street. Have to watch the curb drop offs. But for me 7" is great (in more ways then one!).

Bob
 
Danschutz said:
Just noticed on lectric cycle that a price increase hits May 1st. $795.00. This might just be the deciding factor between the Bafang and the LR kit as I won't have enough funds transferred to PayPal until after the first, although I may still wait for EM3EV to get the new shipment.

Dan L.

Just FYI.. I bought my Bafang off an eBay seller direct from China for less than $500. That included shipping. I've had both units and love the silence of the bafang.
 
800 dollars is insane for these.

Bafang have upped their prices, but still..
 
I contacted a Chinese vendor and asked about removing the speed limiter, but as we all know, I may or may not receive what I asked for so I didn't order anything yet.
So is it possible and if so, an easy or hard job to do it myself if it hasn't been removed?

Thanks!
 
ebike11 said:
I contacted a Chinese vendor and asked about removing the speed limiter, but as we all know, I may or may not receive what I asked for so I didn't order anything yet.
So is it possible and if so, an easy or hard job to do it myself if it hasn't been removed?

Thanks!
Ebike11,
Pretty straight forward to reprogram now.
I programmed mine yesterday with good results.
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=58780
 
Ok thx!!
So what voltage are you guys giving this motor? Is 70V too much?
Im looking for top speed on road/street flats mainly
 
Caps are 63V. The max battery configuration is 14S. You might sneak by with 15S as long as you don't charge past 4.18v per cell. But for top speed, it might be better to go with a chain ring adapter and mount up a 60T chainring on the front.
 
Would posters mind listing the make and model bike they used with 69MM BB's.

It sure would be helpful to nOObs and get more of this baby on the road.
I'm going through the thread, again. :headache:

Iron horse Maverick SE 5.5
Trek Pure 2012 73MM fits and chain line is nearly spot on.
Pashley City Bike ??MM
Electra Townie 21D ?MM
Terra trike ??MM
Venzo scud ??MM
1994 Mt. Shasta Legacy
 
I remember reading someone had got it working on a pashley, and figured out how to keep the original crank arms.
They did a whole bunch of bbs01 conversions at once with a conversion party, everyone bringing a different bike.
It was the same person who somehow tried the C965 display, which I don't think anyone else has tried, so maybe you can search for pashley or c965 and have it come up.

My attempt will be on a Soma Juice frame, also a newb
 
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