new cyclone 3000 w mid-drive kit?

[Aftonrider]

Hey Gman.

Sounds like you got recunment fever. Noting like riding a recumbent. The extra weight will help keep your tadpole on the ground, a good thing. I ordered my kit today from Sick Bike Parts. Been tweeting things and the result is very nice. Good luck on our build. I can't wait till my kit arrives. Can't wait to see some photos of your KMC. Ride safe.

Peace

Afton Rider
Dom

Got all 6 packs secured on the trike last night and then went for a 5 mile ride, on human power, to test the "performance" with those packs. I didn't notice much of a difference going up an 11% hill, but the trike is a lot harder to flip now, and not just a bit, now its considerably harder and I was trying hard with some stupid stunts.

I'll probably run a 12V preliminary test once I get all the 12V rail connectors. I am hoping to have the trike fully operational in about 2 weeks.

Pictures then.

G.

 

[robocam]

At stock power levels, at 52V, on speed 2 (i.e. no jumper on the 3-speed connector), my Cyclone has somehow shifted to the point where the left crank cannot clear the motor (i.e. it hits the motor and won't turn). I'm definitely going to have to see if Mike is selling upgraded brackets.

Note: I am using a 48-32 crankset from Cyclone with an ISIS bottom bracket. I may have to use the 44-44 that came with the kit because with the 48-32, it is sending way too much torque to the rear wheel. I can wheelie with the MIDDLE gears on my 29er!!! It's insanely powerful!

I don't remember where I found this photo. Does somebody know who did this mount for what it looks like a Cyclone 3000 motor? Does somebody else can do it for me?

Thanks!

PS: G, looking forward to see your build.

 

[Aftonrider]

Hello

Somewere in this thread Gman posted a drawing for his bracket mod. He's runing a 48 tooth to the motor. My understanding is that the mod does work. Did you lock things down with red loctite.

Talk to Gman, he knows this kit inside out. Hope this helped.

Afton Rider
Dom

Ok, I don't know how everyone else is doing it, but at stock power levels, on speed 2 (i.e. no jumper on the 3-speed connector), my Cyclone 3000w from Luna Cycles has twisted the bottom bracket plates to the point where the left crank cannot clear the motor (i.e. it hits the motor and won't turn). I'm definitely going to have to see if Mike is selling upgraded brackets because there is no way the stock brackets that come with the Cyclone can handle its power even with washers on the bolts (at least not with a 52V 25r Luna battery). If I had known this before, I would have ordered the 2016 GNG kit instead. Be warned. $389 is just the beginning.

Note: I am using a 48-32 crankset from Cyclone with an ISIS bottom bracket. I may have to use the 44-44 that came with the kit because with the 48-32, it is sending way too much torque to the rear wheel. I can wheelie with the MIDDLE gears on my 29er!!! It's insanely powerful!

I don't remember where I found this photo. Does somebody know who did this mount for what it looks like a Cyclone 3000 motor? Does somebody else can do it for me?

Thanks!

PS: G, looking forward to see your build.

 

[robocam]

Thanks for replying. I definitely used Loctite. Everything is tight. I added the washers. Whatever is going on has allowed the motor to twist into a position where it blocks my left crank arm.

Actually, he is running his motor to a 44. His 48 runs to his rear cassette. It's possible that the slight increase in diameter of the 48 caused mine to twist more. But 44 and 48 aren't that different in diameter though.

Hello

Somewere in this thread Gman posted a drawing for his bracket mod. He's runing a 48 tooth to the motor. My understanding is that the mod does work. Did you lock things down with red loctite.

Talk to Gman, he knows this kit inside out. Hope this helped.

Afton Rider
Dom

Ok, I don't know how everyone else is doing it, but at stock power levels, on speed 2 (i.e. no jumper on the 3-speed connector), my Cyclone 3000w from Luna Cycles has twisted the bottom bracket plates to the point where the left crank cannot clear the motor (i.e. it hits the motor and won't turn). I'm definitely going to have to see if Mike is selling upgraded brackets because there is no way the stock brackets that come with the Cyclone can handle its power even with washers on the bolts (at least not with a 52V 25r Luna battery). If I had known this before, I would have ordered the 2016 GNG kit instead. Be warned. $389 is just the beginning.

Note: I am using a 48-32 crankset from Cyclone with an ISIS bottom bracket. I may have to use the 44-44 that came with the kit because with the 48-32, it is sending way too much torque to the rear wheel. I can wheelie with the MIDDLE gears on my 29er!!! It's insanely powerful!

I don't remember where I found this photo. Does somebody know who did this mount for what it looks like a Cyclone 3000 motor? Does somebody else can do it for me?

Thanks!

PS: G, looking forward to see your build.

 

[Aftonrider]

Hi again robocam

This is a quote from a pm I have from Gman.

The crank setup is meant to be used on both human power and motor power. Use the 48T for motor and use the 24T for human pedaling since you'll be pedaling a massive trike.

Check in with Gman. I'm sure he can help you, he's provided me with tons of info as I'm a noob to this bike stuff.

Afton Rider
Dom

Thanks for replying. I definitely used Loctite. Everything is tight. I added the washers. Whatever is going on has allowed the motor to twist into a position where it blocks my left crank arm.

Actually, he is running his motor to a 44. His 48 runs to his rear cassette. It's possible that the slight increase in diameter of the 48 caused mine to twist more. But 44 and 48 aren't that different in diameter though.

Hello

Somewere in this thread Gman posted a drawing for his bracket mod. He's runing a 48 tooth to the motor. My understanding is that the mod does work. Did you lock things down with red loctite.

Talk to Gman, he knows this kit inside out. Hope this helped.

Afton Rider
Dom

 

[robocam]

Oh, that's because he's talking about a trike. Here's the post about his current setup where he confirms that he's driving the 44 with his motor.

https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=69867&start=250#p1149340

Hi again robocam

This is a quote from a pm I have from Gman.

The crank setup is meant to be used on both human power and motor power. Use the 48T for motor and use the 24T for human pedaling since you'll be pedaling a massive trike.

Check in with Gman. I'm sure he can help you, he's provided me with tons of info as I'm a noob to this bike stuff.

Afton Rider
Dom

 

[Aftonrider]

My mistake noted, sorry about that. I'm sure he can help you out. Drop him a pm, he's a great guy and is happy to help others.

Dom

 

[robocam]

Oh no problem at all. I really appreciate your willingness to help!

My mistake noted, sorry about that. I'm sure he can help you out. Drop him a pm, he's a great guy and is happy to help others.

Dom

 

[robocam]

[strike]I figured out what happened. I put the hose clamp around the motor and the spacers on the left (see photo). As I rode, somehow the clamp caused the motor to shift to the left, blocking the crank.[/strike] [EDIT: Upon further inspection after disassembly, the bolts were bent, so it wasn't because of the hose clamp.] I put the hose clamp there because as the motor applied force, I could see the motor twisting to the right. Putting the clamp there reduced that twisting. I'm definitely going to need to modify the bracket or buy Mike's bracket. Those black allen bolts need to be secured to the silver allen bolts.

Ooh, I just thought of something. Maybe I could put some epoxy putty behind the spacers so that the motor can't rotate to the left. The hose clamp will keep it from rotating to the right.

At stock power levels, at 52V, on speed 2 (i.e. no jumper on the 3-speed connector), my Cyclone has somehow shifted to the point where the left crank cannot clear the motor (i.e. it hits the motor and won't turn). I'm definitely going to have to see if Mike is selling upgraded brackets.

Note: I am using a 48-32 crankset from Cyclone with an ISIS bottom bracket. I may have to use the 44-44 that came with the kit because with the 48-32, it is sending way too much torque to the rear wheel. I can wheelie with the MIDDLE gears on my 29er!!! It's insanely powerful!

I don't remember where I found this photo. Does somebody know who did this mount for what it looks like a Cyclone 3000 motor? Does somebody else can do it for me?

Thanks!

PS: G, looking forward to see your build.

 

[juanfeli]

Robocam, May I ask if you are using it in a full suspension bike?

I do and at full throttle my frame flex a lot and make the motor shift as well. It doesn't have any problems if I'm gentle with the throttle but it is not what I want.

Today I tried 44 Motor/32 rear as well and it wasn't worth it as you described.

Tomorrow, I'll install everything again in a hard tail, and I'll post here how it behaves.

At stock power levels, at 52V, on speed 2 (i.e. no jumper on the 3-speed connector), my Cyclone has somehow shifted to the point where the left crank cannot clear the motor (i.e. it hits the motor and won't turn). I'm definitely going to have to see if Mike is selling upgraded brackets.

Note: I am using a 48-32 crankset from Cyclone with an ISIS bottom bracket. I may have to use the 44-44 that came with the kit because with the 48-32, it is sending way too much torque to the rear wheel. I can wheelie with the MIDDLE gears on my 29er!!! It's insanely powerful!

 

[robocam]

Hi! Yes, I am using it in a full suspension bike. It's a Trek Hifi Pro 29.

https://www.google.com/search?q=trek+hifi+pro+29&safe=off&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwi32_iLr-fLAhUKwiYKHdI1DJ4Q_AUICCgC&biw=1920&bih=1038

My chain stays flex to the right like crazy when I apply throttle and brake (while the bike is on a stand), and I'm suspecting this is one of the reasons my bike chain sometimes falls off. I'm worried that it's fatiguing the aluminum. I'm seriously considering a hard tail as well. I look forward to hearing about your findings. Another option is to use a full suspension bike with a fixed rear triangle. That way the motor is mounted to the triangle so that it cannot flex at the pivot.

Man, this Cyclone is way too powerful. LoL. I'm thinking about getting a Lyen controller so that I can use a much higher voltage but with less current.

Robocam, May I ask if you are using it in a full suspension bike?

I do and at full throttle my frame flex a lot and make the motor shift as well. It doesn't have any problems if I'm gentle with the throttle but it is not what I want.

Today I tried 44 Motor/32 rear as well and it wasn't worth it as you described.

Tomorrow, I'll install everything again in a hard tail, and I'll post here how it behaves.

At stock power levels, at 52V, on speed 2 (i.e. no jumper on the 3-speed connector), my Cyclone has somehow shifted to the point where the left crank cannot clear the motor (i.e. it hits the motor and won't turn). I'm definitely going to have to see if Mike is selling upgraded brackets.

Note: I am using a 48-32 crankset from Cyclone with an ISIS bottom bracket. I may have to use the 44-44 that came with the kit because with the 48-32, it is sending way too much torque to the rear wheel. I can wheelie with the MIDDLE gears on my 29er!!! It's insanely powerful!

 

[Aftonrider]

Hi Juan

Nice build. I'm waiting on my kit. I took a look at your vids, way cool. What did you pay for the batteries? I'm going to need some soon. Ride safe and be well.

Aftonrider
Dom

Last Saturday, I put it together my first ebike. A custom Cyclone 3kW from Luna Cycle on a custom Salsa Spearfish 2 2012 with 2x Multistar 6S 16Ah and the result is 10 times better than I could imagine.

I’ll post here how it holds.

My first impression is just fantastic. I rode it for 10 mi between car traffic and some sidewalks with a top speed of 23.2mi/h and average of 18.4. I know that it can go faster and even more when I’ll follow gman1971 advice to release the full speed potential from the controller hack. But for now it feels super-fast. Wheeles at traffic lights next to cars toke me by surprise and if is uphill could be dangerous. I wouldn’t mind to go faster for long up hills (1 mile or more)

Today I have my first ride on trails and everything became even better. It is just amazing. I’m pretty sure that this bike will put a huge smile on anybody that could try it on any trail path.

I don’t have complaints about the noise; I would say that just a little nosier that two DD that I tried before I made my mind for this kit.

For chain to the motor, I went with a KMC z610 HX as I’m pretty sure is better for midrives than anything that I have seen suggested here.

The frame has a 73mm PressFit 30 shell so I’m using a Tripeak BSA bottom bracket adapter. I have chosen it for no particular reason. Nothing to say for now, just that the chain alignment was perfect.

You have to have some bike mechanics skills if you want to install this kit by yourself. Other than that, the cables are pretty straight forward.

The kit in your hands feels huge and heavy, but it doesn’t in the bike. The motor quality looks fine but not the drive train components.
If you plan to buy this kit, I highly suggest going with any other throttle than the one with LED and Power Switch as the key and LED obstruct your thumb to reach the gear shifter.

Here a couple of videos:

https://vimeo.com/159602818
https://vimeo.com/159678868

 

[gman1971]

Okay, I am here.

I just finished wiring the entire DB25 setup for all LiPos... now I can balance all my 18S packs with a single DB25 cable: no more stupid JST-XH PIECE OF CRAPOLA connectors, or sparks due to dumb thumb, or other snafus associated with LiPos; now plug the dang thing and BAM, done!
So within the next few days I should be ready for the first auxiliary 12V rail power up and check. I don't have much of anything to power up as of now yet except a couple of non-modded lights housings but parts are arriving every day and things are starting to take shape. The countdown for Cyclone is ticking, and this Friday is ordering day. After that its then 5 business days before the kit gets here and by then my plan is to have a near fully operational trike.


As for cranks...

First off, I am running a 44-48-32T triple chainring on my BICYCLE (two wheels) with a 13T freewheel on the motor. But as Aftonrider quoted, I do plan on running a 44-48-24T triple chainring on the trike with a 14T freewheel at the motor so I can reduce torque at the chains even further.

Going from 44T to 48T is a 10% reduction in force going through the cassette chain, not on the motor side. The only way to change that would be to use a 14T freewheel at the motor, which will give around 9% force reduction going through the motor drivechain.

Again, I plan on doing that for my trike since I'll be running the motor on 72V and I'll have so many RPMs that I am considering an F-1 style shift light!

G.

 

[gman1971]

This is the very reason why I went with a steel framed Trike... zero flex; the thing is indestructible; will never fatigue and if cared well should last a lifetime.

And my eBike (two wheels) frame also bends when doing brake/throttle as well but much less than it did with the GNG due to the slight torque reduction. I also hardwired mode #3 exclusively and I won't even consider using any of the other two modes b/c those other two modes put the motor down in the RPM powerband where it produces loads of torque and torque is what you want to avoid at all costs (unless you want to fix it or repair it daily)

G.

Hi! Yes, I am using it in a full suspension bike. It's a Trek Hifi Pro 29.

https://www.google.com/search?q=trek+hifi+pro+29&safe=off&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwi32_iLr-fLAhUKwiYKHdI1DJ4Q_AUICCgC&biw=1920&bih=1038

My chain stays flex to the right like crazy when I apply throttle and brake (while the bike is on a stand), and I'm suspecting this is one of the reasons my bike chain sometimes falls off. I'm worried that it's fatiguing the aluminum. I'm seriously considering a hard tail as well. I look forward to hearing about your findings. Another option is to use a full suspension bike with a fixed rear triangle. That way the motor is mounted to the triangle so that it cannot flex at the pivot.

Man, this Cyclone is way too powerful. LoL. I'm thinking about getting a Lyen controller so that I can use a much higher voltage but with less current.

Robocam, May I ask if you are using it in a full suspension bike?

I do and at full throttle my frame flex a lot and make the motor shift as well. It doesn't have any problems if I'm gentle with the throttle but it is not what I want.

Today I tried 44 Motor/32 rear as well and it wasn't worth it as you described.

Tomorrow, I'll install everything again in a hard tail, and I'll post here how it behaves.

At stock power levels, at 52V, on speed 2 (i.e. no jumper on the 3-speed connector), my Cyclone has somehow shifted to the point where the left crank cannot clear the motor (i.e. it hits the motor and won't turn). I'm definitely going to have to see if Mike is selling upgraded brackets.

Note: I am using a 48-32 crankset from Cyclone with an ISIS bottom bracket. I may have to use the 44-44 that came with the kit because with the 48-32, it is sending way too much torque to the rear wheel. I can wheelie with the MIDDLE gears on my 29er!!! It's insanely powerful!

 

[gman1971]

The 44/32 crank is IMHO a BIG mistake. These are not muscle cars where you can boost 300 ft/lbs of torque and the overbuilt transmission can handle it. We are riding bicycles here, and more torque = bad news. With a 44/32T the amount of force running through the chain is INSANE and your drivetrain won't last very long. Of course your frame flexes... I am surprised it didn't snap. Running the 32T chainring with the 11T cog for any period of time with more than 250-300 watts your chain, cassette and chainring lifespan will be measured in minutes. Do your wallet, your bike, and yourself a favor and order the 44-48-32T chainring. I only run the 32T on my triple chainring with either the 36T, 32T or 28T cogs; I also aligned the front derailleur so my chain will rub the derailleur cage if I go beyond gear #4. I do use the 32T when I am pedaling the bike myself (no motor) or towing something with motor uphill at slow speed. (8-10 mph)

Installing this on a hardtail won't solve your problem. I have a 26" hardtail and it also flexes with the 32T... with the 48T still does, but very minimal flex.

Your solution to the flex problem is called 44/48, or if you can get a 44T/52T that would be even better.

G.

Robocam, May I ask if you are using it in a full suspension bike?

I do and at full throttle my frame flex a lot and make the motor shift as well. It doesn't have any problems if I'm gentle with the throttle but it is not what I want.

Today I tried 44 Motor/32 rear as well and it wasn't worth it as you described.

Tomorrow, I'll install everything again in a hard tail, and I'll post here how it behaves.

At stock power levels, at 52V, on speed 2 (i.e. no jumper on the 3-speed connector), my Cyclone has somehow shifted to the point where the left crank cannot clear the motor (i.e. it hits the motor and won't turn). I'm definitely going to have to see if Mike is selling upgraded brackets.

Note: I am using a 48-32 crankset from Cyclone with an ISIS bottom bracket. I may have to use the 44-44 that came with the kit because with the 48-32, it is sending way too much torque to the rear wheel. I can wheelie with the MIDDLE gears on my 29er!!! It's insanely powerful!

 

[juanfeli]

Thanks Aftonrider/Dom,

I paid $79.99 for this, http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__66487__Multistar_High_Capacity_6S_16000mAh_Multi_Rotor_Lipo_Pack_AR_Warehouse_.html They are now more expensive and in back order. I bought two of them.

Last Saturday I did almost 18 mi with a 300 ft elevation gain and pedaling without agitation or sweating (from Crystal City Va to Bethesda MD). I charged the batteries to 4.1V and they were at 3.78 at the end. So maybe they could go for a 20% o 30% more.

Hi Juan

Nice build. I'm waiting on my kit. I took a look at your vids, way cool. What did you pay for the batteries? I'm going to need some soon. Ride safe and be well.

Aftonrider
Dom

 

[mountain biker]

so i went to the website for cyclone tw and they have a triple chainring. one from the motor and two for your bike to use for rear cassete gears......what size chain do they use for the motor to the chainring? also has anyone used their pas feature? is there anyway to limit the amount of amps used. i am assuming the throttle but is there some way to limit the throttle max in conjuction with a three way switch. i noticed the ca can do this are there any other alternatives? like a three way switch and what power levels would i get....where can i find a three way switch? and wouldn't a 3000 watt drive just shred a normal bike derailler in a matter of minutes....any experience with their 24 volt version..how many rpm you guys getting from that to the crank...they emailed me back from taiwan and said they could do 20amp or 40amp in terms of controller.also they have a waterproof one but its hard to tell from their website. with a double chainring a 24t and 44t that would be cool with me. back cassete 14-28.

 

[robocam]

For the motor to crankset, I use a standard 1/8" chain.

http://smile.amazon.com/KMC-K710SL-SuperLite-Bicycle-1-Speed/dp/B001CNC2VY?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00

To limit the current, you'll probably have to use a Cycle Analyst.

The 3-speed connector only requires a SPDT switch. Nothing connected is speed 2. Here's what I bought to control the speed. I'm going to use the turn signal switch to choose 1, 2, and 3. I plan to use the horn button to activate the cruise control

http://smile.amazon.com/motorcycle-universal-handlebar-husqvarna-conversion/dp/B008G4YMHY?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00

The rear derailleur does not handle power. It just guides the chain.

Are you using this on a regular bike? If so, I would not get a 24T to drive the cassette unless you limit the current, and even then a 32 should be plenty. It will provide way too much torque. I had the motor driving a 48 and 32 to the rear, and I could pop wheelies using the middle gears of my 10-speed cassette with a 29" wheel! I have just changed back to the stock 44-44. Haven't tested it yet, but it looks like it is flexing my frame a little less.

so i went to the website for cyclone tw and they have a triple chainring. one from the motor and two for your bike to use for rear cassete gears......what size chain do they use for the motor to the chainring? also has anyone used their pas feature? is there anyway to limit the amount of amps used. i am assuming the throttle but is there some way to limit the throttle max in conjuction with a three way switch. i noticed the ca can do this are there any other alternatives? like a three way switch and what power levels would i get....where can i find a three way switch? and wouldn't a 3000 watt drive just shred a normal bike derailler in a matter of minutes....any experience with their 24 volt version..how many rpm you guys getting from that to the crank...they emailed me back from taiwan and said they could do 20amp or 40amp in terms of controller.also they have a waterproof one but its hard to tell from their website. with a double chainring a 24t and 44t that would be cool with me. back cassete 14-28.

 

[Aftonrider]

Hi mountain biker

I'm new to this but have gained a lot of information reading on ES and asking questions. I've been told a 1/2" X 1/8" bmx chain is the strongest. KMC makes great chains. I know nothing about the pas feature. As for the three way switch, the controller is wired for a three way switch. Look here for the switch. http://www.lyen.com

As for the gearing ratio. If geared correctly the kit will not tear up your drivetrain.

search gman1971 in ES and you'll find the proper chain rings for the final drive. I think it's 44-36-24.

Hope this helped

Afton rider
Dom

so i went to the website for cyclone tw and they have a triple chainring. one from the motor and two for your bike to use for rear cassete gears......what size chain do they use for the motor to the chainring? also has anyone used their pas feature? is there anyway to limit the amount of amps used. i am assuming the throttle but is there some way to limit the throttle max in conjuction with a three way switch. i noticed the ca can do this are there any other alternatives? like a three way switch and what power levels would i get....where can i find a three way switch? and wouldn't a 3000 watt drive just shred a normal bike derailler in a matter of minutes....any experience with their 24 volt version..how many rpm you guys getting from that to the crank...they emailed me back from taiwan and said they could do 20amp or 40amp in terms of controller.also they have a waterproof one but its hard to tell from their website. with a double chainring a 24t and 44t that would be cool with me. back cassete 14-28.

 

[juanfeli]

I think that I found the cause of the flex. The PFBB adapter was broken.

I'll install a solid metal adapter in that bike and leave it in standby, hopefully one day I'll put on it a Tangent drive. Or maybe I'll sell the bike here on the cheap for an ES member who want to pursue that project,

Mean the time, I'll be using the kit with an old trials bike. So far single speed 13t-32 front 44-18 rear, as that was what I had at hand.

I'll post here how it behaves with (or without) a 3 speed switch. If I don't like it. I'll try with a 2x1 speed (Cyclone triple chainring, or similar heavy duty from Sick Bike P)

I took it for a short spin and I'm pretty exited about it. Of course it jerky, but it is also a trails bike. So it mus have some place to use it with lots of fun.

I'm looking forward to see how far I can go tuning a Cyclone 3000 as single speed.

 

[1KW]

What lipos do you have in those bags? Looks like a simple solution for 2 x 6s packs on a dh bike

 

[juanfeli]

2x Multistar High Capacity 6S 16000mAh

 

[gman1971]

I appreciate being given credit, thanks; I truly do, but please Afton, stop posting the wrong recommendations and pegging my name to it. Seriously, I am recommending a 44-48-32T chainring; if you don't remember (or don't know) what kind of setup I am using then please refrain from posting wrong data. I tend to check this thread rather often at a times and I'll help in whatever fashion I can. The point is that I prefer that my name isn't associated with the wrong information so when ppl ebikes fail I don't get blamed for it.

Thanks.

And for the record: My current Triple Chainring configuration is: 44-48-32T

G.

Hi mountain biker

I'm new to this but have gained a lot of information reading on ES and asking questions. I've been told a 1/2" X 1/8" bmx chain is the strongest. KMC makes great chains. I know nothing about the pas feature. As for the three way switch, the controller is wired for a three way switch. Look here for the switch. http://www.lyen.com

As for the gearing ratio. If geared correctly the kit will not tear up your drivetrain.

search gman1971 in ES and you'll find the proper chain rings for the final drive. I think it's 44-36-24.

Hope this helped

Afton rider
Dom

so i went to the website for cyclone tw and they have a triple chainring. one from the motor and two for your bike to use for rear cassete gears......what size chain do they use for the motor to the chainring? also has anyone used their pas feature? is there anyway to limit the amount of amps used. i am assuming the throttle but is there some way to limit the throttle max in conjuction with a three way switch. i noticed the ca can do this are there any other alternatives? like a three way switch and what power levels would i get....where can i find a three way switch? and wouldn't a 3000 watt drive just shred a normal bike derailler in a matter of minutes....any experience with their 24 volt version..how many rpm you guys getting from that to the crank...they emailed me back from taiwan and said they could do 20amp or 40amp in terms of controller.also they have a waterproof one but its hard to tell from their website. with a double chainring a 24t and 44t that would be cool with me. back cassete 14-28.

 

[gman1971]

And now the apology from being a jerk.

G.

 

[gman1971]

More updates:

No parts arrived today due to snafu with the seller using the slowest form of shipping known to mankind for Prime... so I don't have much new going on. However, as usual I took the trike out for a sort ride and when I came back I decided to do a 40 mile check-up, make sure bolts aren't lose cables are snug, chain is clean etc... derailler isn't going to explode etc... So I put the trike on jack stands and the first thing I noticed was that my right wheel main shaft bolt was a hair lose so when putting pressure it was giving in thus rubbing the brake caliper. I also noticed that the tire wasn't seated properly on the rim and had a bit of a wobble. Fixed the tire seating problem and also tightened the axle bolt and its now perfect so brake doesn't rub when taking sharp corners.

I should have some more parts arriving between tomorrow and Friday.

G.