new cyclone 3000 w mid-drive kit?

[Phife]

Replaced the damaged cells in my battery pack last week and been testing out my new 3D printed cyclone mounts out. I printed a new set with some upgrades and modifications in regular Red PLA, now it matches my bike better and will allow me to see how the weaker plastic mount performs. So far though, its working great, much more solid than the stock mount, no more zipties anywhere on the motor. Ive "Brickwalled" the bike the other day just to see how much movement there was in the mount. I can say, there was a small mount of movement in the mount, but what was more worrisome was my rear suspension was also bending quite a bit to the side. I think the bike would break long before the motor mount did. I was surprised to see how far the rear suspension frame can twist and bend.

One issue I ran into this weekend though, I think my crank freewheel is dying. If im motoring and not pedaling I hear a loud cracking/creaking sound coming from the BB, and once in a while that cracking sound coincides with the cranks suddenly grabbing and turning a 1/4 turn or so. I have to keep pedaling or else it keeps doing this.

Ive ordered the super expensive HD freewheel from Sickbikeparts and I also ordered an HD freewheel for the motor, Hopefully this will fix things up. Until then, Im riding my BBS02 bike.

 

[juanfeli]

Robocam, you are the man!

 

[le15otl]

Funny that Phife, i've found the same thing
Concentrated so much on getting a rock solid motor mount and realizing with a
shock that the actual frame (chain stay part) is bending loads under high torque!


something else I'll say in just to add to the information here. When you replace the motor freewheel it might require a lot of force to put it back on the shaft. I would try to avoid using a hammer as it puts a fair bit of stress on the motor and in my case knocked the hall sensor out. So if anyone find their motor cogging and heating after hitting the shaft, open the back cover and check the hall sensor is in. I was very relived to find it was just that.

 

[gman1971]

Funny that Phife, i've found the same thing
Concentrated so much on getting a rock solid motor mount and realizing with a
shock that the actual frame (chain stay part) is bending loads under high torque!


something else I'll say in just to add to the information here. When you replace the motor freewheel it might require a lot of force to put it back on the shaft. I would try to avoid using a hammer as it puts a fair bit of stress on the motor and in my case knocked the hall sensor out. So if anyone find their motor cogging and heating after hitting the shaft, open the back cover and check the hall sensor is in. I was very relived to find it was just that.

Yeah,
That part got lost during the nonsensical exchange of posts between another member here and me. But yeah, during the heat of the nonsense I explained clearly that at some point and once the motor mount is bulletproof then you'll have to worry about other stuff snapping or bending.My 26" hardtail would bend real bad if I just hammered it from a dig, potentially snapping the rear frame chainstay in half... so you gotta figure that in your equations.

As for motor. Yes, don't hit it with a hammer, aka as the "precision alignment tool"... To pry the freewheel of the motor I used teflon penetrating oil and a lever to slowly inch it out. BTW, could you explain in more detail how the hall sensors got all out of whack?

G.

 

[Phife]

Will I need any special tools to replace the freewheels?

Im just assuming I pull the crank off and swap the freewheel there, but for the motor, do I need a special tool to remove the freewheel? I bought the freewheel adapter as well just incase I couldnt get the current motor freewheel off the stock adapter.

 

[RageNR]

I am trying to figure out the situation with the crank freewheel options.

This one here has been mentioned on other threads as being a high quality replacement. Is this the one that is the "upgraded" freewheel on the Luna kit?
If that is the case, seems it is not so high quality after all? (going off of you guys feedback)

Is this one the better nickle plated version from Cyclone-tw ? ($17 from cyclone-tw site)

I have seen mentions that this brown one is actually the better freewheel? ($15 from cyclone-tw site)


Just trying to confirm I am understanding this correctly.

 

[juanfeli]

I use this method to remove the freewheel from the crank. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LvgXUWsWaic

Will I need any special tools to replace the freewheels?

Im just assuming I pull the crank off and swap the freewheel there, but for the motor, do I need a special tool to remove the freewheel? I bought the freewheel adapter as well just incase I couldnt get the current motor freewheel off the stock adapter.

 

[robocam]

Haha, nice work! =)

Robocam, you are the man!

 

[robocam]

What's with the difficulty in removing the motor freewheel? When I received my Luna Cyclone, I just loosened the set screw, and the entire assembly slid back and forth with little effort. Am I missing something here? Maybe it gets tight after use?

...As for motor. Yes, don't hit it with a hammer, aka as the "precision alignment tool"... To pry the freewheel of the motor I used teflon penetrating oil and a lever to slowly inch it out. BTW, could you explain in more detail how the hall sensors got all out of whack?

G.

 

[robocam]

To get the freewheel off the crank arm, I just used a Dewalt impact driver. It was very easy to do it handheld. I've never tried to remove the motor freewheel from the shaft adapter, but if I ever needed to replace it, I'll just buy a new adapter. I wouldn't even bother trying to remove the motor freewheel from the adapter. If anyone has an easy way to do this, I'd like to know. I'm afraid I'd damage the motor or something. I guess you could mount it on a keyed 20mm shaft secured by a vise.

I believe this is the adapter.

http://www.sickbikeparts.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=229

Will I need any special tools to replace the freewheels?

Im just assuming I pull the crank off and swap the freewheel there, but for the motor, do I need a special tool to remove the freewheel? I bought the freewheel adapter as well just incase I couldnt get the current motor freewheel off the stock adapter.

 

[robocam]

You can email Paco (Cyclone tw) to confirm. He told me the brown one was better. I have that one, and it's been serving me well. You also have these two options in case you haven't considered them.

http://www.sickbikeparts.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=21&products_id=62

http://www.sickbikeparts.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=21&products_id=226

I am trying to figure out the situation with the crank freewheel options.

This one here has been mentioned on other threads as being a high quality replacement. Is this the one that is the "upgraded" freewheel on the Luna kit?
If that is the case, seems it is not so high quality after all? (going off of you guys feedback)

Is this one the better nickle plated version from Cyclone-tw ? ($17 from cyclone-tw site)

I have seen mentions that this brown one is actually the better freewheel? ($15 from cyclone-tw site)


Just trying to confirm I am understanding this correctly.

 

[robocam]

Wait, why does it take so much force to put the motor freewheel back on the shaft? Shouldn't it slide on with little effort?

Every time I hear a strange noise, I check my chainstays to see if they snapped. I ride in fear that they will snap and cause me to get severely injured. If they ever snap, I'm getting the steel slimboy frame from Cyclone tw. Ideas for other frames welcome. I like the slimboy because it has a spot for a battery.

Funny that Phife, i've found the same thing
Concentrated so much on getting a rock solid motor mount and realizing with a
shock that the actual frame (chain stay part) is bending loads under high torque!


something else I'll say in just to add to the information here. When you replace the motor freewheel it might require a lot of force to put it back on the shaft. I would try to avoid using a hammer as it puts a fair bit of stress on the motor and in my case knocked the hall sensor out. So if anyone find their motor cogging and heating after hitting the shaft, open the back cover and check the hall sensor is in. I was very relived to find it was just that.

 

[RageNR]

You can email Paco (Cyclone tw) to confirm. He told me the brown one was better. I have that one, and it's been serving me well. You also have these two options in case you haven't considered them.
http://www.sickbikeparts.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=21&products_id=62
http://www.sickbikeparts.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=21&products_id=226

Yes, the White Industries freewheel looks to be very high quality. Co$ts a leg too!

Just came back and saw your post. I had just finished watching a video of a rebuild on the blue faced HD freewheel.
Here is a teardown and rebuild video. Listen to his comments. The FW he is taking apart in the vid has 35,000miles on it. HOLY COW! And looks to be in excellent shape.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nkpv1WkbYrw

Sure is expensive. But if you can get that kind of use out of $80, I'd say that is a great deal.

 

[Phife]

To get the freewheel off the crank arm, I just used a Dewalt impact driver. It was very easy to do it handheld.

Can you elaborate on this? did you need the freewheel removal tool to remove the freewheel from the crank? I didnt order one, but perhaps I should have, not sure which one though.

 

[robocam]

Yeah, you need the tool.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Bike-Bicycle-Free-Wheel-Remover-BMX-Fixie-SINGLE-SPEED-Tool-/221100143616?

To get the freewheel off the crank arm, I just used a Dewalt impact driver. It was very easy to do it handheld.

Can you elaborate on this? did you need the freewheel removal tool to remove the freewheel from the crank? I didnt order one, but perhaps I should have, not sure which one though.

 

[gman1971]

What's with the difficulty in removing the motor freewheel? When I received my Luna Cyclone, I just loosened the set screw, and the entire assembly slid back and forth with little effort. Am I missing something here? Maybe it gets tight after use?

...As for motor. Yes, don't hit it with a hammer, aka as the "precision alignment tool"... To pry the freewheel of the motor I used teflon penetrating oil and a lever to slowly inch it out. BTW, could you explain in more detail how the hall sensors got all out of whack?

G.

Once you have a few miles racked up it won't be as easy, I think... or at least it wasn't for me that is... your mileage might vary.

G.

 

[gman1971]

The third one is the one I had on my eBike. It is still rocking at 2200 miles.

G.

I am trying to figure out the situation with the crank freewheel options.

This one here has been mentioned on other threads as being a high quality replacement. Is this the one that is the "upgraded" freewheel on the Luna kit?
If that is the case, seems it is not so high quality after all? (going off of you guys feedback)

Is this one the better nickle plated version from Cyclone-tw ? ($17 from cyclone-tw site)

I have seen mentions that this brown one is actually the better freewheel? ($15 from cyclone-tw site)


Just trying to confirm I am understanding this correctly.

 

[StinkyGoalieGuy]

Gman, I would like to get an idea of how loud the motor + planetary is. Can you post some videos of what it sounds like? I would like to hear it without any road or wind noise, so if you can prop up the wheels and do it while the bike is stationary, that would great. Thanks!

 

[gman1971]

Gman, I would like to get an idea of how loud the motor + planetary is. Can you post some videos of what it sounds like? I would like to hear it without any road or wind noise, so if you can prop up the wheels and do it while the bike is stationary, that would great. Thanks!

This video should give you an idea how loud the motor is ripping through the gears; btw, this was filmed before I modded the controller to run 6.5 kW and this was a 2nd-5th gear pull.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C1sq_r6oDRM

G.

 

[le15otl]

As for motor. Yes, don't hit it with a hammer, aka as the "precision alignment tool"... To pry the freewheel of the motor I used teflon penetrating oil and a lever to slowly inch it out. BTW, could you explain in more detail how the hall sensors got all out of whack?

G.

Well when it was being hit with force one of them came out of it's ''slot''' by the magnet due to the shaft moving vertically causing the controller to only have inputs from two of the sensors. It still span but twas loud and jerky and disgusting. Good test for my controllers over current protection !

Yup even with a lot of lubrication it was very stiff to lever off and push back on.
I'm not sure why it's so bad could be an extra wide shaft on my older motor. I was expecting it to slide on with little effort.

I think if the chainstays snap it would be on initial acceleration and not at high speed, hopefully...!

 

[gman1971]

As for motor. Yes, don't hit it with a hammer, aka as the "precision alignment tool"... To pry the freewheel of the motor I used teflon penetrating oil and a lever to slowly inch it out. BTW, could you explain in more detail how the hall sensors got all out of whack?

G.

Well when it was being hit with force one of them came out of it's ''slot''' by the magnet due to the shaft moving vertically causing the controller to only have inputs from two of the sensors. It still span but twas loud and jerky and disgusting. Good test for my controllers over current protection !

Yup even with a lot of lubrication it was very stiff to lever off and push back on.
I'm not sure why it's so bad could be an extra wide shaft on my older motor. I was expecting it to slide on with little effort.

I think if the chainstays snap it would be on initial acceleration and not at high speed, hopefully...!

Mine was stubborn to get out, but to get back in it required just a nudge, nothing serious.

The chainstays could potentially snap at any time, especially so if they are AL due to fatigue. A jump, a harsh pothole or some other hazard on the road could be the end of the chainstay if its too fatigued.

G.

 

[RageNR]

Which Cycle Analyst are you guys using on your builds?
CA3-DPS or CA3-HC? What about he remote shunt? Wondering how the implementation would work on a system setup with the batts in a backpack.
Looks like more adapters are needed to hookup the shunt. I do not like to cut the stock connectors off of batts or equipment.

 

[gman1971]

Which Cycle Analyst are you guys using on your builds?
CA3-DPS or CA3-HC? What about he remote shunt? Wondering how the implementation would work on a system setup with the batts in a backpack.
Looks like more adapters are needed to hookup the shunt. I do not like to cut the stock connectors off of batts or equipment.

CA 2.4 DPS here. There is no need for an adapter to the shunt. The molex connector plugs right into the CA DPS plug.

G.

 

[RageNR]

Ok. Was not sure if the stock controller had that function or not.
Looks like the CA3-DPS is the most logical choice. We are not pushing 8000w @ 100A+.
Just trying to future proof my purchase. Although, by then, Grin will have some fancy color touch/screen CA to replace the v3. It might even drive the bike for us. 8)

 

[gman1971]

Ok. Was not sure if the stock controller had that function or not.
Looks like the CA3-DPS is the most logical choice. We are not pushing 8000w @ 100A+.
Just trying to future proof my purchase. Although, by then, Grin will have some fancy color touch/screen CA to replace the v3. It might even drive the bike for us. 8)

LMAO, everything is possible...

I went CA2 due to price and cabling, I wanted the least amount of cables coming out and it was 50 bucks cheaper; for what I use them for they do the same thing sans a few of the new CA3 fancy-pants stuff like temp readings etc.

G.