Over volted power tool motor. What broke? 18 volt to 36 volt Coleman

GIGATT

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Fulshear, TX
Greetings folks,

I have some 18 volt power tools; I over volted them with a 36 volt battery. Does anybody know if or how I could repare them? Maybe the caps?

Coleman 18 volt tools. Drill and Circular saw.

The tools worked shortly before they stopped, one is a drill the other a circular saw. They did not get too hot gear wise or speed they were both not under load. I think I remember seeing magic smoke.



Thanks
 
Great post very descriptive. You could have done anything from blow the fets to toast the windings to break the gearbox.
 
18V cordless do run great at 6s x 4.10V 24.6V.
I built a hip pack and connect empty 18V DeWalt, B&D, Ryobi, Ridgid and Craftsman (18-19.2V) battery shells for enhanced performance.
But pushing past 25V (caps?) of to 40V+ from "36V" (35V caps possibly? burnt also) is near certain to provoke multiple problems.

Capacitors almost certainly failed, unless something else failed 1st?
Brush models likely fixable - bypass switch to test. If works, need new switch ...
Brushless models not likely?
 
flat tire said:
Great post very descriptive. You could have done anything from blow the fets to toast the windings to break the gearbox.

You are correct I did not add enough details or pictures. I will try to check mosfets (I assume they usually have 3 prongs) gears still feel in melted.

Thanks
 
DrkAngel said:
18V cordless do run great at 6s x 4.10V 24.6V.
I built a hip pack and connect empty 18V DeWalt, B&D, Ryobi, Ridgid and Craftsman (18-19.2V) battery shells for enhanced performance.
But pushing past 25V (caps?) of to 40V+ from "36V" (35V caps possibly? burnt also) is near certain to provoke multiple problems.

Capacitors almost certainly failed, unless something else failed 1st?
Brush models likely fixable - bypass switch to test. If works, need new switch ...
Brushless models not likely?

I assume they are the kind of brushed models that the brushes cant be replaced easily. I will try to bypass switches. Open source tools save me money... even when I break them.

Thanks
 
Brushes would be off the shelf
Which shelf is the question
Tool repair store would have a variety in stock, or know where to get em


Caps, sure they could have easily blown
Or the input filter
Or the input fuse(s)
Or any number of components. Even if you find the one near the input something further down the line could have blown and left no black pixie dust

Is it worth the hassle to open up and probe with a digital multi meter
you doing it for shitsngiggles?
 
More info?
Did tools run @ 36V for a period of time?
or
Died immediately,when subjected to 36V?
 
DrkAngel said:
More info?
Did tools run @ 36V for a period of time?
or
Died immediately,when subjected to 36V?

The circular saw ran for about 10 seconds

The drill ran for about 1 minute
 
markz said:
Brushes would be off the shelf
Which shelf is the question
Tool repair store would have a variety in stock, or know where to get em


Caps, sure they could have easily blown
Or the input filter
Or the input fuse(s)
Or any number of components. Even if you find the one near the input something further down the line could have blown and left no black pixie dust

Is it worth the hassle to open up and probe with a digital multi meter
you doing it for shitsngiggles?


Probe with multimeter. I guess one on a positive and the other on negative or in volt mode or amp mode.

Not for shits and giggles; I am just trying to learn.
 
That is what I thought, but it was like 4am in the morning and I couldnt sleep.

Diagnosing "what broke?" on a power tool, the electronics obviously.
It is time to get out a pen, paper and the digital multi meter and open up the electronics.
Try your best to do up a schematic of the circuit.
Problem is that the pcb board the components are soldered onto have many different layers, so you might think a trace of conducting copper is easy to follow, but with the layers it could also go to another part of the circuit and you'd have no clue.


GIGATT said:
Not for shits and giggles; I am just trying to learn.
 
If brush motor tools, , and the brief survival, almost certainly the switch is the only problem.
Power saw switch might be affordable, but drill VSR switch likely more expensive than used replacement drill.
Switch malfunction test by jumping switch ... secure saw-remove blade 1st.
VSR drill switch might be more difficult, but same method.
Easiest to take switch out of circuit and connect battery to motor, to test?

Oh ... don't test with 36V!!!
Less than 25V, direct to motor ... for testing purposes.
 
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