Panasoni mid drive unit controller upgrade

jpo

100 mW
Joined
Aug 29, 2010
Messages
47
Location
San Francisco California
I need dome help replacing the controller on my Panasonic lite.
It has the classic mid drive with torque sensing. I want to replace the stock controller and use a throttle.
I took everything apart and what I am left with coming out of the motor are 5 wires (hall) red, blue, white, green and black and 3 phase wires red, white and black. My controller (Lyen) has red blue yellow green and black hall wire and blue yellow green phase.
Whats the worst that can happen? Is there any way to figure out what goes with what?
thanks
 
How did you access the retaining bolt within the bracket holding the two halves together? Normal freewheel removal tools won't work but the 4 prong offset is right.

-Mike
 
Since these Panasonic mid-drives are rare around here (so far), I would greatly appreciate if you could take way too many pictures of all the internal parts and post them.
 
Looks like it is mainly trail and error with some caution taken to get the wiring right. I will take pictures of wiring combo when I get it rght
MWKeefer. there are 6 bolts holding the two halfs together. After pulling the drive cog and the chain ring splitting the to is just a matter of cracking them loose. There are o rings on the two bearings that seat in the right side case. One at the bottom bracket and the other at the drive cog (the two penetrations through the right side case.) These o rings grip the case and want to hold it together when you split the case a crack from a soft faced mallet followed by slow gentle force was plenty to separate the two
In the pictures you will notice I used silicone to seal the "new" phase wires and existing haul sensor wires through the left side case.
 
Lots of info here:
http://www.pedelecs.co.uk/forum/electric-bicycles/14675-kalkhoff-pro-connect-allround-info-needed-battery-mode-operation.html
 
Here are some photos of the panasonic mid drive I believe this is roughly 2002. Uses nickle metal battery tec. 24 volt system
 

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If anyone is interested.
I used the trial and error method prescribed by flecher and knuckles in the link supplied by spinning magnets. I did not have any fancy equipment so I used a 3 amp fuse on the power supply (36 volt lifpo4). I could not id any of the hall wires so I used knuckles spread sheat.
Using the spreadsheet method I started making connections. Some combinations ran rough, some popped the fuse, another ran smoothly in reverse until I go to the combo that worked.
Using a lyen controller, bellow is the combination that worked.

I would still use caution and and in line fuse.

Phase wires
controller wires are blue, yellow and green
motor wires are red, white and black
controller to motor
Yellow to Black
Blue to White
Green to Red

Hall wires
controller wires red, black, green, blue, yellow
motor wires red, black white, green, blue
controller to motor
red to red
black to black
blue to white
yellow to green
green to blue.

If you do this i recommend using low amp fuse to make sure it is correct.
I was able to run the motor at full throttle without popping the fuse (3amp).

I have not road tested it yet but did run the motor full speed while dragging the brake to see what would happen. The rim got hot and I could smell the brakes melting but the motor felt fine.

I am running about 15 amps. This is probably what the old controller did at peak, but continuous should be plenty of juice for me and hopefully not too much to do damage. It would be awesome to see what this unit could handle but I am not willing to push the limits of the gears and motor. The entire drive unit (motor gear reduction freewheeling bb and housing) only weighs 3.3kg. If my engineering buddy thinks it's safe with more juice I may turn it up, but for now 15 is good.

I anyone has experience with running higher power I am curious how it holds up.

Thanks for the help.
 
From the photos are the gears straight cut steel spur gears ? or helical ?

Are they noisy ?
 
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