Power supply to use with Hyperion 1420i

[crusoe]

I'm in Canada, changed up my profile! I'm going to purchase ZOMGVTEK's psu he's selling. I was going to attempt this build myself, but don't have the balls to be dicking around with that much voltage when I have zero experience with it.

 

[whereswally606]

wise moves when you are starting out. Its good to understand as much as possible and in the long run its that sort of knowledge that will save you some money here and there. Although having said that the more i learn the better kit i want to buy so its probably a double edged sword in that respect. Thanks for doing you location status. If you were in the UK i could have sorted you out with a PSU like mine for the hyperion. mines pretty solid.

 

[keysersoze310]

I'm using one of these:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Power-Supply-24V-DC-750W-31-3A-CNC-Servo-Stepper-Motor-/270867517540?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3f10f65064#ht_527wt_1396

Works well with no mods needed and cheap for a real meanwell. I think i'm only getting about 500W output from my hyperion for some reason but that's close enough for me.

 

[crusoe]

Nice, that's a good find keyser! I'll definitely pick one of those up should I need more of them down the road.

 

[caspo6]

I'm also in the market for x2 Hyperion 1420i power supplies - but I'm admittedly a little confused about what I need.

The Hyperion is rated for 550W / 24V = 23A; The Meanwell SP-750-24 can pull 31 amps.... are you running this off of 240VAC? Or how do you prevent tripping your 20A garage breakers?

The sketch below shows what I want to do - Is the Meanwell SP-750-24 a good choice for this setup? Will I be blowing fuses or tripping breakers with this setup?

 

[psycholist]

The 31A rating on the meanwell is it's rated output current. On a 110v service, current draw would be ~8A (assuming 85% efficiency).

 

[caspo6]

Ok, I think I get this now... ... I'll try to write this out so it makes sense to me and see if it makes sense to you.

MW SP-750-24 Max output = 24V x 31.3A = 751.2W / 120VAC = 6.3A / 85% eff = 7.4A input << 20A garage breaker

Feathermerchantrc.com max output = 24V x 47A = 1128W / 120VAC = 9.4A / 85% eff = 11.1A input << 20A garage breaker

Hyperion max current = 20A; so will pull at various voltages x27.5V=550W; x24V=480W; x18V=360W; x12V=240W

So hooking the Hyperion up to a 6s 5aH LiPo brick at LVC of 3.65V x 6s = 21.9V x 20A = 438W will be pulled. At HVC of 4.15V x 6s = 24.9V x 20A = 498W will be pulled.

A couple of questions:
1) I was planning on using 20A fuses inline between the PSU and the charger - does that make sense?
2) Since the Hyperion is the limiting component if I used either of these PSU's - I would not need to do any current limiting, such as Fechter's Mini Meanwell limiters, correct?
3) Can these PSU's have their voltages easily dialed up to 27.5V? Is it just changing out a pot?
4) Since I want to power x2 Hyperions - I would need x2 MW SP-750-24, or could hook both Hyperions to the 24V47A unit, correct?

Thanks in advance for any feedback.

 

[psycholist]

I think you got it caspo6! I should point out though, that the 20A rating for the 1420i is also the output current rating, not the input. The charger is rated to deliver full power (550w) at 24v input, provided the PSU can deliver the required amps.

A couple of answers:
1) I believe most don't use fuses between PSU and charger (myself included) If you choose to fuse, I would try 750/24=~30A fuse.
2) Correct. No current limiter needed.
3) I believe most Meanwells have a trimpot for adjusting voltage and 27v should be within the allowable range. The 1420i only requires ~24v for max output.
4) If your planning to network the 2 chargers to charge 24s, you need a separate supply for each charger.

 

[cwah]

Could we use this one?
http://www.bmsbattery.com/alloy-shell/27-alloy-shell-600w-lifepo4li-ionlead-acid-battery-ebike-charger.html

Voltage is adjustable so it's easy to reuse the power supply for other things if necessary

 

[sn0wchyld]

I'm still leary about connecting two of those power supplies together on my own - seems SKETCH. And there aren't any guides I've been able to find that lay it out step by step. I don't want to get zapped.

Can someone chime in on whether I need two psu's at 24v, or just the one at 12v? Is my math correct from above?

Try and find server ps's that people have been able to switch on before. https://sites.google.com/site/tjinguytech/my-projects/HP47A is where I learnt all I needed. To float the ground on mine I had to open it up, and find a wire that was attached to the outer casing via a screw. It was pretty easy, took about 15-20min. I had no real prior knowledge. The best part is mine are still as safe as stock, as I have the outer casing of the modded one touching the unmodded one. this way, both cases are still grounded via the unmodded PS, but I can safely series them for 24V output. I think you can also do this by cutting the ground pin of one unit, though I'm not sure.

If you're really worried about zaping yourself, buy a wall breaker, and only use 1 hand to touch the ps's while they're plugged in for the first time, untill you know they're safe. The wall breaker will sense if power is going somewhere other than through the ps's and shut things off, usually you wont even feel anything, much less a zap.

The 1 hand rule is a good thing to adopt in general when playing with mains power, for two reasons. one, it stops you becoming part of the circuit. The breakers only work if they sense that power is going somewhere other than through the normal 2 wires supplying you with AC power. If you have power running from the wall, up your right arm and down your left back into the wall, then as far as the breaker is concerned, you're just the same as a toaster, or any other load. Having one hand on the power also lowers the chance of power running accross your heart, which is the real danger. A good zap through the rest of your body might hurt/burn a bit, but chances are it wont kill you (and breakers should prevent it from happening anyway). a small zap across your heart easily could. It also means the chances of getting zaped are much smaller, because if you're on a rubber matt or something then theres no way for the power to 'ground' out via you.