Programming APT AE96600 controller (update: NOT recommended, unstable program)
- Thread starter larsb
- Start date
Hey, now there's a new APT software
Now the firmware program is built-in. If you are connected to the Internet, you can update to the latest version and apply presets as DAT files.
The bluetooth app worked too I bought the 72420 first and I'm going to buy the 80550
philjk2007 said:
The old EV DRIVE MANAGER no longer works with the new version of the APT controller
Specifically 72420 and 80550
The new version of the picture introduced below is only recognized by the software.
(Even if the COM terminal is normally recognized, the program does not recognize the controller.)
@bingbwy Any link to where I can download that new software?
Ugh.... So I managed to buy an APT961000 and it's been working good for a week. Now all of a sudden it won't work... I was working on the wiring for the speedometer and the only thing I can think of is that the pulse output wire and either the ground or 96v touched each other. I did't hear any pop or smoke or anything from the controller. Now, the green light on the controller is just flashing green in 1 second intervals, and PC software won't work either...
It looks like the controller still holds a charge even after you disconnect the battery for a solid 15-20 minutes. Maybe some capacitors or something are holding energy in there, I dunno. So even though I had the main power switched off, I may have still been gettting voltage through that way..
Could I really have killed the whole controller just by grazing the pulse output wire to 96v? Gah.... Feeling a bit discouraged now...
Ugh.... So I managed to buy an APT961000 and it's been working good for a week. Now all of a sudden it won't work... I was working on the wiring for the speedometer and the only thing I can think of is that the pulse output wire and either the ground or 96v touched each other. I did't hear any pop or smoke or anything from the controller. Now, the green light on the controller is just flashing green in 1 second intervals, and PC software won't work either...
It looks like the controller still holds a charge even after you disconnect the battery for a solid 15-20 minutes. Maybe some capacitors or something are holding energy in there, I dunno. So even though I had the main power switched off, I may have still been gettting voltage through that way..
Could I really have killed the whole controller just by grazing the pulse output wire to 96v? Gah.... Feeling a bit discouraged now...
therobby3 said:
1. Damaged external coil temperature sensor: Panel timing indicator blinks once/sec.
2. Internal temperature sensor damage: Panel timing indicator blinks once / 8 seconds
3. Internal coil sensor damage: Panel timing indicator blinks twice /8 seconds
4. Freeze: Blink /0.5 seconds
5. Cooling freeze protection: Timing indicator blinks 0.5/0.5 seconds
6. High temperature protection: Running lights and timing lights blinking 0.5/0.5 seconds
7. Alarm indicator light blinks 0.5/0.5 seconds due to low temperature for a long time
Description of the alarm indicator in the APT manual
I'll ask the seller about the program. It's forbidden to distribute.
@bingbwy Thanks so much, that could be of some help. Unfortunately still no luck with the controller, so I am beginning to get a bit scared, as I paid quite a bit for the controller. It'd suck to have to junk it due to what is probably such a tiny problem.
Just to be sure, the blinking you are mentioning is referring to the green light, correct? Mine it blinking at about one a second, so I'd assume it is #1 if that's the case. I have no idea where that "coil temperature sensor" would be, and if it's inside I think the inside is covered in some waterproof electronic crap, so that may be quite an ordeal. Any ideas? Also curious where you got that information from. The only info I was able to find was a few codes for the red light blinking in an APT manual, and that's it. If you have any and all information, I'd truly appreciate it.
Just to be sure, the blinking you are mentioning is referring to the green light, correct? Mine it blinking at about one a second, so I'd assume it is #1 if that's the case. I have no idea where that "coil temperature sensor" would be, and if it's inside I think the inside is covered in some waterproof electronic crap, so that may be quite an ordeal. Any ideas? Also curious where you got that information from. The only info I was able to find was a few codes for the red light blinking in an APT manual, and that's it. If you have any and all information, I'd truly appreciate it.
Oh man, that definitely sucks. =[ I guess electric conversions isn't a thing to get into unless your ok with possible throwing away a chunk of money. =/
Any word on that manual you got those light blinks from? The entire controller is covered in electronic potting, so it's not looking good that I'd even be able to find said "external coil temperature sensor" even if that was it though. Weird they would refer to it as "external" though. I don't know of any "external" sensor on it.
Any word on that manual you got those light blinks from? The entire controller is covered in electronic potting, so it's not looking good that I'd even be able to find said "external coil temperature sensor" even if that was it though. Weird they would refer to it as "external" though. I don't know of any "external" sensor on it.
Ater hours of tracking chinese wechat posts, i finally found the new APT programming software, now I'm facing new issue,(surprise) I cant login or register, it requires registration with phone number, but no matter what number I give them, it wont send the code to my SMS.
Anyone could help?
Anyone could help?
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Chanwit2509
1 µW
- Joined
- Sep 16, 2019
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- 1
SergeyNikulochkin said:
Does anyone know if there's a way to get the .dat file for your existing firmware on your controller? I have the program that can write a .dat file to it, but I would also like to be able to GET the current .dat file that is written to it. That way if something goes wrong when I write a new one to it, I still have the original as backup. Or is it only a one-way street?
Ok guys I don’t know if anyone still follows this but it has been a year and I still have not finished my scooter. Here is what I have so far and today I rode it with kick power only. Definitely the world’s heaviest kick scooter. Should be a really fun ride with power! I think I need more battery……. 8) I hope you guys are all doing well.
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So, a couple of days ago I finally got my electric conversion of my Avant 216 finished with the QS 8kw motor and the APT 96800 controller.
(I've been documenting a bit on my blog, https://www.runstenracing.se/?cat=58 with a lot of pictures)
Runs great. I built batteries from 21700 cells, 26s10p ie 96V nominal 33Ah which I can shovel snow for 45 minutes on before switching packs. Got a 30A charger so I can pretty much run the machine continously..
BUT
After running 2 packs total I was to show the machine to my brother yesterday and it would not start. Motor just clicks and then nothing. Connecting to the controller everything seems fine but after applying throttle the "Over iac" field on the History side turns to NG.. in red.. And since it's in red I get that it's not good.
Been talking to QS all day but really not getting anywhere.
I've tried different battery packs, different wiring harnesses. Tried disconnecting hall sensors. I've measured the motor coils, which seems fine..
When I apply the tiniest bit of throttle the Iq actual goes to 726, which seems A LOT.. but since I can't seem to get the password for the manual .zipfile I really have no idea what I'm looking at. From this thread I got that "Over iac" is an overcurrent fault but does anyone have the manual explaining all the settings in the PC software?
Also - when I try to get to the "Motor" settings tab in the software it just throws a popup saying "Illegal parameter attribute" and crashes.. ?
So far I'm not really happy with the controller but.. we'll see what happens..
(I've been documenting a bit on my blog, https://www.runstenracing.se/?cat=58 with a lot of pictures)
Runs great. I built batteries from 21700 cells, 26s10p ie 96V nominal 33Ah which I can shovel snow for 45 minutes on before switching packs. Got a 30A charger so I can pretty much run the machine continously..
BUT
After running 2 packs total I was to show the machine to my brother yesterday and it would not start. Motor just clicks and then nothing. Connecting to the controller everything seems fine but after applying throttle the "Over iac" field on the History side turns to NG.. in red.. And since it's in red I get that it's not good.
Been talking to QS all day but really not getting anywhere.
I've tried different battery packs, different wiring harnesses. Tried disconnecting hall sensors. I've measured the motor coils, which seems fine..
When I apply the tiniest bit of throttle the Iq actual goes to 726, which seems A LOT.. but since I can't seem to get the password for the manual .zipfile I really have no idea what I'm looking at. From this thread I got that "Over iac" is an overcurrent fault but does anyone have the manual explaining all the settings in the PC software?
Also - when I try to get to the "Motor" settings tab in the software it just throws a popup saying "Illegal parameter attribute" and crashes.. ?
So far I'm not really happy with the controller but.. we'll see what happens..
hubbe said:
My guess is that something is wrong with the shunt calibration for the phase current sensors. (or one of them has failed). THe most likely thing is that the memory location for the calibration information inside the controller has been corrupted, probably from a bug in the firmware.
Never tried any of this, but this is the first hit for breaking a zipfile password:
https://www.passcope.com/how-to-crack-zip-file-password/
Maybe that will help to get access to the manual? (personally, I can't understand why anyone would password their documentation; if I couldn't read the entire documentation for a complicated programmable product first, I wouldn't buy one).
Is that true whether the software is connected to the controller or not? If it only happens with the controller connected, and it's live-reading the data from the controller, there could be a corrupt setting in the controller itself that is out of range for the program, and the program is so poorly written that it doesnt' have normal error-handling routines for this situation.
In that case, you could try resetting the entire controller to defaults, and then resetting everything manually (not from a saved settings file, in case that is also corrupted).
It could also be the wrong software version for the firmware in the controller; if they don't match there could be data in the controller that doesn't match what the software expects, and vice/versa, so that (again because of lack of proper checking and error handling) it crashes instead of just telling you they don't match and can't be used together. Unfortunately in most cases Iv'e seen of mismatched hardware-firmware / setup software, there is no way to determine which version of hw-fw goes with which version of sw, except by trial and error, because they aren't given matching numbers or names, and the company "support", if it exists, has no idea as they have no internal documentation on this either. (though they might *tell* you some matching nubmer sets, if you ask a second time they'll give different info, often enough). No experience with APT, but seen it with other hw/sw things (icnluding music editing/etc stuff).
Yeah, totally agree with you on the password protected documentation. Usually when I buy stuff I want to read up on it before buying, but since QS recommended this controller for the motor I just went ahead with it.. Don't quite know what other 10kW+ 26S controllers there are out there for a hobbyist to get..
I've measured the phase wires. 0,1ohm between phases and no connection between phases and casing of motor.. should be ok.
I can't click the motor tab in the software without being connected to the controller, they're all just greyed out - but yeah, the software isn't the most stable.
The only way I can get the controller to sustain is to disconnect the phase wires. Then it can run no problem, and I do get 0A actual.. When I connect the phase wires I get overcurrent after a small click on the motor. If I rotate the motor just a little bit it moves more until it stops so I'm thinking the same as you - the current sens shunt on one of the phases is fried for some reason.
I've used the controller for about an hour in total, having seen no more than 50 battery amps going through it, usually lower than 40.. This controller is supposed to withstand a lot more than that so I really can't see how I've managed to break it.. my BMS is capped at 200A, which is what QS told me is the maximum cont the controller can handle..
It'll be interesting to see how QS handles this.. the only problem is that I really need to get the machine running asap.. :/
[update]
So, I took everything apart and measured everything thoroughly.. When I measure the resistance between B- and the phase outputs the two first phases are OL but the third one is 0.1ohm, ie shorted to B-.. That might explain why it goes into over-current shutdown immediately..
I've measured the phase wires. 0,1ohm between phases and no connection between phases and casing of motor.. should be ok.
I can't click the motor tab in the software without being connected to the controller, they're all just greyed out - but yeah, the software isn't the most stable.
The only way I can get the controller to sustain is to disconnect the phase wires. Then it can run no problem, and I do get 0A actual.. When I connect the phase wires I get overcurrent after a small click on the motor. If I rotate the motor just a little bit it moves more until it stops so I'm thinking the same as you - the current sens shunt on one of the phases is fried for some reason.
I've used the controller for about an hour in total, having seen no more than 50 battery amps going through it, usually lower than 40.. This controller is supposed to withstand a lot more than that so I really can't see how I've managed to break it.. my BMS is capped at 200A, which is what QS told me is the maximum cont the controller can handle..
It'll be interesting to see how QS handles this.. the only problem is that I really need to get the machine running asap.. :/
[update]
So, I took everything apart and measured everything thoroughly.. When I measure the resistance between B- and the phase outputs the two first phases are OL but the third one is 0.1ohm, ie shorted to B-.. That might explain why it goes into over-current shutdown immediately..
You could make one, by using the Lebowski brain board to drive the powerstage of a large EV controller. It's been done a few times; I have a thread about doing it for a Honda IMA controller, which is based on someone else's successful conversion doing the same thing. Even though I have not finished mine yet, the thread should be complete enough to do the whole thing, along with the Lebowski documentation.hubbe said:
There is a possibility, though slim, that there is only a connection between phases and laminations at much higher voltage than a multimeter uses. I have an MXUS 3k (45h?) that has such a problem; I "fixed" it with CoronaDope, but it required a special meter that uses high voltage to test for insulation failures to find the problem.
Does the software have a way to TOTALLY RESET the controller to complete factory defaults, in case something is wrong with a setting (corrupt, etc)?
hubbe said:
Is this what your FETs measure, on the controller itself? If one of the bridges is blown shorted, it could also cause you overcurrent. ebikes.ca - learn - troubleshooting has a document on basic multimeter testing of cotnrolller FETs, if you're not already testing them that way.
harrisonpatm
10 kW
- Joined
- Aug 8, 2022
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- 849
Hi, I've read this post extensively, and maybe someone might be able to help me out with one issue I'm having with this controller. The low-level brake input doesn't seem to be working. I'm using a 72v battery with an 8000W hub motor and I was sent this controller as part of a package. I am happy with all the settings, except for this: when I engage the low-level brake, while the wheel is spinning at about 200-400 rpm, one of two things happens. Either the wheel begins a jerky sort of cruise control, spinning on it's own at about 300 rpm without any throttle input. Or, it will immediately jump to it's max rpm, 1050rpm, again with no throttle input. Obviously a terribly thing to have happen when you're trying to activate the brake.
I've already reinstalled the firmware to reset all it's setting back to zero, and the issue still persists. What I'm trying to do is to get the regenerative braking to start when I engage the low level brake. I have already successfully found the setting to enable automatic regenerative braking to function; "max slip reg Q," under mode set, and I can start seeing decent braking occur when I let go of the throttle, at about -4000. Altering "max reg q" does nothing, and at this point I am afraid to test the function further because I don't want the wheel to jump out of it's test rig.
If I am unable to sort this function out, that's okay, I still have mechanical brakes on both wheels and I can find a setting for the automatic regen that I like. I was just hoping to have some manual control over regen.
Thanks in advance,
Patrick
I've already reinstalled the firmware to reset all it's setting back to zero, and the issue still persists. What I'm trying to do is to get the regenerative braking to start when I engage the low level brake. I have already successfully found the setting to enable automatic regenerative braking to function; "max slip reg Q," under mode set, and I can start seeing decent braking occur when I let go of the throttle, at about -4000. Altering "max reg q" does nothing, and at this point I am afraid to test the function further because I don't want the wheel to jump out of it's test rig.
If I am unable to sort this function out, that's okay, I still have mechanical brakes on both wheels and I can find a setting for the automatic regen that I like. I was just hoping to have some manual control over regen.
Thanks in advance,
Patrick
Does the problem happen while riding? Or only not under load, wheel off ground?
An FOC controller with poor firmware design might operate differently without a load vs in actual usage.
An FOC controller with poor firmware design might operate differently without a load vs in actual usage.
harrisonpatm said:
harrisonpatm
10 kW
- Joined
- Aug 8, 2022
- Messages
- 849
This is just happening under no load for now, suspended in a test rig. Are you suggesting that I try the brake input when its on the bike, on the road, with me on it? That makes me nervous to try, after seeing it go from 200rpm to 1000 rpm in half a second. I was hoping to have it sorted before I get it on the bike. Otherwise I'll probably just skip it.
amberwolf said:
If you had a "lanyard-cutoff" switch to disable the controller or cut power to it should it get away from you, you could try the brake on the road, at very low speed (you can do it just walking it along if you can control the throttle that well). You'd just need to set up the experiment so that it's "fail safe". 
If there is a speed limit setting, you could try enabling that and settting it low so that it can't rocket off, and verify that works on the test bench.
Personally, I suspect it's a bug in the controller firmware and that it simply isn't doing braking at all, and can't, or that it doesnt' work the way it's supposed to, or even that the setup software is wrong for this specific controller's firmware version, so the settings it is sending the controller don't match what the controller's fw expects for some things, or are written to the wrong location, etc., and so behavior is incorrect. Neither one would be surprising for any of the programmable controllers I've seen threads on so far, some of them have some pretty horrifically buggy behaviors and/or incredibly poor UI / etc design, etc.
If there is a speed limit setting, you could try enabling that and settting it low so that it can't rocket off, and verify that works on the test bench.
Personally, I suspect it's a bug in the controller firmware and that it simply isn't doing braking at all, and can't, or that it doesnt' work the way it's supposed to, or even that the setup software is wrong for this specific controller's firmware version, so the settings it is sending the controller don't match what the controller's fw expects for some things, or are written to the wrong location, etc., and so behavior is incorrect. Neither one would be surprising for any of the programmable controllers I've seen threads on so far, some of them have some pretty horrifically buggy behaviors and/or incredibly poor UI / etc design, etc.
harrisonpatm said:
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