Programming APT AE96600 controller (update: NOT recommended, unstable program)

I tried changing the hall sensors, and the degrees. When changing degrees by 60, the wheel turns in the opposite direction, while much softer and without extraneous sounds. But I think its spinning in the opposite direction?At the same time, the speeds do not work, as if the boost mode is constantly turned on.
 
Today I tried to change the settings of wheel motor degrees of timing but the problem is not resolved. Looking for a solution to the problem further.
 
that shows 60 deg setting is not correct, too high speed, changed rotation - then it's way off.

You can try from what you had before and try between +/-60 degrees in 15 degree steps.
You'll probably find a best setting there.
 
larsb said:
Bartosh said:
Hey larsb, any luck running qs 138 mid drive with flux? BTW what's your opinion on the controller so far?
Click to expand...

I am driving again, new batteries and the APT, so far only some runs. I sometimes get cutouts at close to 300A battery / 600A phase current so i guess that this is close to the limit of the AE96600 with my setup.
Click to expand...

That was short :( .. My controller died today when i was out driving. Turns out that the max battery current possible in program is 250A, the only reason i got higher seems to be that the current sensor has gone whack. It showed erratic reading in the program and eventually died completely. Now it only twitches at throttle. So much for large chunks of controllers.
 
I tried -120,-90, degrees, and so on, the error POPs up at any position. And it's the same all the time. But optimal settings with those that are now installed.
 
larsb said:
larsb said:
Bartosh said:
Hey larsb, any luck running qs 138 mid drive with flux? BTW what's your opinion on the controller so far?
Click to expand...

I am driving again, new batteries and the APT, so far only some runs. I sometimes get cutouts at close to 300A battery / 600A phase current so i guess that this is close to the limit of the AE96600 with my setup.
Click to expand...

That was short :( .. My controller died today when i was out driving. Turns out that the max battery current possible in program is 250A, the only reason i got higher seems to be that the current sensor has gone whack. It showed erratic reading in the program and eventually died completely. Now it only twitches at throttle. So much for large chunks of controllers.
Click to expand...

Oh no... I'm so freakin' disappointed right now :/ Did you have a look inside (yet)? Now I wonder what type of mosfets you're find there... and what actually happened. You think that 250A DC is ok to be on the safe side?
 
larsb said:
That was short :( .. My controller died today when i was out driving. Turns out that the max battery current possible in program is 250A, the only reason i got higher seems to be that the current sensor has gone whack. It showed erratic reading in the program and eventually died completely. Now it only twitches at throttle. So much for large chunks of controllers.
Click to expand...

I have to pull back this one. current sensor reading is dead (still) but now i also get hall sensor error. I tried the sensors with the little tester thingy and one sensor is gone. Opened the motor and it's got salt and water in it. Salt/rust and muck can be seen in the bottom of the opening, check pic..
image.jpeg
so this could be the root cause to either the controller dying or the controller not functioning.

I ordered some new SS511AT hall sensors as replacements. Let's hope that it's not the complete PCB gone.. It has blistered in some places so the laminate doesn't seem to be of good quality.
 
I replaced the motor hall sensor and the controller is working again :D :D :D

time to draw some conclusions..
I have tried three programs:
- EVdrivemanager.xx.7A that is partially locked
- EVdrivemanager.xx.7B that doesn't start at all (at least on my computer)
- EVdrivemanager.xx.10.1 that does not seem blocked but some parameters can't be changed

-flux weakening and mode setting (eco, three speed) does not work reliably in any of the programs. This is a stopper for me.

- I've been in contact with ADVpower for 6 months to get either a new/stable program or help with a complete manual but no success.

- I can't recommend buying the ae96600 controller at this moment. It's cheap but as program is not stable it's too much of a gamble. The huge size cannot be motivated since it has a relatively low max DC current (250A)
 
Gave me the manufacturer of the wheel firmware for the controller APT 96600, and a program for firmware. Now the bike rides just fine without disconnections. I'm happy.
 
I don't know.
I've run it at 200A for a long time and 250-300A just a short while. The controller is completely dead now as the program is corrupted and i have removed it from my bike so it will be a while before i try the new firmware.

200 to 250A equals 60% more heat so it's a big step..
 
larsb said:
I don't know.
I've run it at 200A for a long time and 250-300A just a short while. The controller is completely dead now as the program is corrupted and i have removed it from my bike so it will be a while before i try the new firmware.

200 to 250A equals 60% more heat so it's a big step..
Click to expand...

And how to increase the speed in the economy mode?
 
4 mode this is normal. 5 mode is boost. But I do not know economical. After the new firmware is in economy mode, the speed fell. But the overall speed and dynamics remained the same. Even feels a little increased.
 
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