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Programming the Bafang Middrive BBS01+BBS02

geofft said:
I'm able to program the new version. Saved updates on Basic, Pedal Assist and Throttle page.

This is excellent news - are you using the existing software or did the cable come with new software?

I used the old software that is floating around here. I also noticed some mentioned the new version should not work but no issues so far my device :D
 
Postby bbike » Wed Aug 13, 2014 7:42 am




geofft wrote:


I'm able to program the new version. Saved updates on Basic, Pedal Assist and Throttle page.


This is excellent news - are you using the existing software or did the cable come with new software?

I used the old software that is floating around here. I also noticed some mentioned the new version should not work but no issues so far my device


...Ok, thanks for the info. I've now ordered one of these cables, feeling slightly stung by the price but if I have the same success as yourself I'll be a bit less grumpy :)
 
bbike said:
I used the old software that is floating around here. I also noticed some mentioned the new version should not work but no issues so far my device :D

Well, that's excellent news - thanks for diving in and trying this. I've been putting off building my cable until the "new" software was available, but I'll wire it up tonight and give it a go.
 
Hi,can someone Help me? I have a bbs01 350w 18a with the c950 display. The display cable has six colour cables, i tried to connect the white ,the black and the green with the usb interface, the Red and the grey togheter, but i don't know where connect the brown One. The software is connected, but nothing appear about my motor and the buttons remain grey.
Thank you in advance,fabio
 
lupaus said:
Hi,can someone Help me? I have a bbs01 350w 18a with the c950 display. The display cable has six colour cables, i tried to connect the white ,the black and the green with the usb interface, the Red and the grey togheter, but i don't know where connect the brown One. The software is connected, but nothing appear about my motor and the buttons remain grey.
Thank you in advance,fabio

Swap the green and the white wires and try again.
 
thank you amigafan2003
i did it and now something happen...the buttons (read,write,etc.) are now working, but nothing is correct about my motor...it say 24v...0A...and if i try to click the read button every number become zero....can you tell me something about? thanks,fabio
 
lupaus said:
thank you amigafan2003
i did it and now something happen...the buttons (read,write,etc.) are now working, but nothing is correct about my motor...it say 24v...0A...and if i try to click the read button every number become zero....can you tell me something about? thanks,fabio

OK - that indicates that the controller isn't powered up - is the battery plugged in?

Before you proceed - are you absolutely sure the red and the grey wires are your PL and P+ connections? I'm only used to working with the 5pin connector, not the 6 pin connector you have.
 
Yes,the battery is plugged in ....so the Red and grey cable i connected togheter are not the right One ,how can i do to under stand if the brown One that is not connected is necessary?
 
lupaus said:
Yes,the battery is plugged in ....so the Red and grey cable i connected togheter are not the right One ,how can i do to under stand if the brown One that is not connected is necessary?

I don't know, as I said I'm not overly familiar with the 6 pin cable.

EDIT:-

Just checking, you are connecting the TTl cable to the cable that goes to the controller and NOT the cable that goes to the display aren't you?
 
cycborg said:
Tom L said:
Here's a file containing a serial dump of the Bafang software read request

Thanks, Tom. So just 19 bytes to represent 42 config fields, if I'm counting correctly. Very efficient, but rather hard to decode.

Some day if I'm feeling brave I might try sending that read request to my controller and see what comes back, although I doubt I'll be able to interpret it, much less change anything.

I got this wrong. That data is only the motor info sent when first connecting. Much more data when each tabbed page is individually read and written to. Makes more sense. I'll have another go at this later in the week.
 
I've just fitted a BBS02 750w with 961 display and a 12ah battery from EM3EV.
I've only ridden it once as the bike I've fitted it to has no brakes at the moment.
The latest versions can indeed use the software in the link at the start of this thread, It took me two different USB/TTL doovers to get it working, the first one wouldn't talk to it.
The following screens are how it came programmed out of the box and I'll leave it this way until I've actually tried it out. It currently only has three PAS levels with no 0 level, just goes straight to 1 and and you can only select 2 & 3.
P8170127 (Medium).JPG

P8170128 (Medium).JPG

P8170129 (Medium).JPG
 
Shorty said:
I've just fitted a BBS02 750w with 961 display and a 12ah battery from EM3EV.
I've only ridden it once as the bike I've fitted it to has no brakes at the moment.
The latest versions can indeed use the software in the link at the start of this thread, It took me two different USB/TTL doovers to get it working, the first one wouldn't talk to it.
The following screens are how it came programmed out of the box and I'll leave it this way until I've actually tried it out. It currently only has three PAS levels with no 0 level, just goes straight to 1 and and you can only select 2 & 3.
View attachment 2

View attachment 1


You know you don't have to take a photo of the screen right? Just press the "print screen" key, then open MS paint and press "ctrl +v" or right click > paste and voila - perfectly readable screenshot :)
 
Tom L said:
I got this wrong. That data is only the motor info sent when first connecting. Much more data when each tabbed page is individually read and written to. Makes more sense. I'll have another go at this later in the week.
Interesting. I was mainly interested in this when I thought the new controllers weren’t compatible with the old software, but that doesn’t seem to be the case. And, as you know from the other thread, it doesn’t matter for the time being until I get a new controller. But it’s always fun to see what’s going on under the hood, so I’d be interested in your data dumps and/or analysis thereof.
 
I have just placed on order on EM3EV for a few components including a V2 display extension cable for HK$62.00 which is ~ US$8.00. Paul does not list them on his website but I did enquiry when sorting out my throttle problem and he has come through with the goods.

6440_2.jpg


Andrew
 
Aushiker said:
I have just placed on order on EM3EV for a few components including a V2 display extension cable for HK$62.00 which is ~ US$8.00. Paul does not list them on his website but I did enquiry when sorting out my throttle problem and he has come through with the goods.
Andrew
dawn. a few days too late. my order was shipped 2 days ago :(
 
izeman said:
Aushiker said:
I have just placed on order on EM3EV for a few components including a V2 display extension cable for HK$62.00 which is ~ US$8.00. Paul does not list them on his website but I did enquiry when sorting out my throttle problem and he has come through with the goods.
Andrew
dawn. a few days too late. my order was shipped 2 days ago :(
Good news!!
They weren't available when I placed my order for the group buy, oh well. Cheers to Paul for getting this done! Nice price drop, $58 to $30 to maybe $15 shipped. What a crazy market this is!

T
 
Today I received this programming cable from china. I just added it when shopping some other items from the same seller, and you're right; it was a genuine home made cable :) ....but that said, just connected to my Win7 laptop, startet the program an was connected to the new 750w motor without any cable or software issues. Missed all the fun making my own cable :(
bafang_cable.jpgbafang_cable.jpg (60.45 KiB) Viewed 168 times

Got mine today, not too impressed with a £42 (shipped) cable being lashed up with insulating tape - but it works. Shrink sleeving obviously hasn't made it to China yet....

Tried it first on my Vista laptop, couldn't get it to connect whatever I tried, so eventually lugged the bike indoors to try it on my Win7 desktop on which it connected with no problems. I'm guessing there's some compatibility issue with the Vista usb comms driver, I'm no expert on such things though.

So the fun begins, first thing is to increase the lvc from 38v, this seemed ok for 12s lipo but subsequently found it was pulling some cells too low...not good.
 
Since I'm not using the throttle, could I wire one of my e-brakes to the throttle cable and program throttle to 0 watts so I could tap the brake to shift with a quick resume to full assist? I really find the lag and ramp up after I touch the brake to be quite annoying
 
My problem seems to be the controller and not the cable. I've used the same cable on the second bbs i have and it connected at the first time. Using the same battery,the same cable and the same Pc on the first One it doesn't work. The only difference is that the One not connecting is 18a ,the other is 15a. What can i do? I'm becoming crazy....
 
Just want to offer my cable and programming expertise to any ES member in the Seattle/Bellevue area. I'll reprogram your BBS01/02 for the tidy sum of one 6-pack of a good microbrew :mrgreen:
 
Another programming problem. I have what I believe is a USB To RS232 TTL UART PL2303HX Auto Converter USB to COM Module Cable SK which I have wired up to the V2 Extension Cable following Pexio instructions.

The only difference is that where pexio refers to splicing the green wire from the Bafang cable to the green wire from the converter I have a blue wire coming from the converter which I have spliced into the green wire on the controller side.

My COM setting is correct [the software gives a error message if it is not] and I am getting basic information from the controller, e.g., it is picking up my wheel size setting.

However when I click connect nothing happens and the read / write to flash buttons are greyed out in the software.

Any suggestions? I have seen the earlier suggestion to switch the "green and white wires" and wonder if that is what I should do with my blue and white wires? Good idea?

EDIT: Problem solved: Switching the wires did the trick so will leave this up in case anyone else has a problem.

Thanks
Andrew
 
Hmm. Went to adjust my PAS settings today and I can't connect.

The serial port and baud rate are correct. Double checked in device manager.
The cable hasn't changed (checked continuity from the Jaycar plug to the USB FTDI device).
I can see the "Q" ASCII data being sent to the serial port and the TX light flashes in the FTDI chip but nothing comes back from the controller.
The speed sensor light is on, indicating that the controller is powered up by the P+ to PL pins shorted in the cable.
Tried restarting the program, laptop/windows, and even pulled the battery from the motor to reset the controller. Tried running the program with admin privileges.
No connection.
When the display is connected everything works as expected so the controller is communicating ok.
It's all pointing towards an FTDI device Rx line problem.
I just thought of a way to test it. I'll loop back the RX and TX lines on the FTDI device and see if a terminal echoes characters sent.
 
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