Programming the Bafang Middrive BBS01+BBS02

[Beardedsurfer]

Great thread! I have a small problem with the software: I have installed it on a small net book to have portable tuning but the window for the app can not be scrolled up or down or resized to fit. Very strange, I can't access the lower read/write buttons in any of the panes! It works fine on an older lap top with 4:3 screen. Running vista as recommended.

 

[Daz 7401]

Hi, I had the same problem with my Samsung Netbook, they use a non-standard resolution. Resize the desk top in display properties to a standard resolution and you can scroll the desk top up and down to access all the buttons.
Rgds
Darren

 

[Beardedsurfer]

Thanks but have tried the above and still not working. (running xp not vista as stated) it's very odd. I may down load and install again.
Cheers, Alan.

 

[Ken Taylor]

I plugged this cable into the controller-side of the unit, then into my windows 7 computer, turned on the battery, and can't get the software to recognize this unit. In my "Devices and Printers", under "Unspecified", I get a FT230X Basic UART that under status says "Needs Troubleshooting" whenever the USB cable is plugged in - regardless of what the other side is connected to.

Try installing the windows driver on this page then plug the device in. If that does not work it may be a counterfeit USB device.
http://www.ftdichip.com/Drivers/VCP.htm

I've been puzzling over this and come to the view that downloading a driver direct from FTDI is exactly what you shouldn't do.

FTDI have a problem in that they were losing market share. Other people were supplying chips that were different internally but had the FTDI interface so worked with FTDI drivers. This was fine for everyone except FTDI as the competitors have taken most of the market. FTDI's fightback strategy was particularly nasty for end users. It is possible to reprogram the FTDI chip through the interface, so FTDI updated their driver to do some tests on the chip to decide if it was third party and if it failed the tests they reprogrammed the chip so it would no longer advertise itself as a USB serial interface. Thereafter any computer it was connected to no longer had any way to know that it was a USB serial interface so wouldn't load the driver, even if that computer was linux which uses non FTDI drivers. FTDI effectively bricked competitor USB serial devices. They then distributed the saboteur driver through the normal windows update. Anyone who got the driver through the automatic windows update and plugged in any non FTDI USB serial devices, which are most of them and their is no way for an end user to tell, into their windows machine had their USB devices bricked. Once this became public Microsoft put a stop to it and obliged FTDI to redistribute the non destructive driver so that not too many people were effected.

However if you get the driver from FTDI directly you may well get the saboteur one and brick any non FTDI USB to serial device. I expect that is probably all the cheap ones sold on ebay. You need an old FTDI driver to be safe or one distributed by Microsoft.

Edit: In view of the following posts it seems Liontail has an FTDI chip or FTDI are not distributing the saboteur driver through their own site.

 

[liontail]

Thanks, Tom, for the help. Turns out that I didn't have the driver installed - I thought that windows would do that automatically.

I got the device to be recognized and assigned a port (COM4), but when I open the software and try to connect nothing happens except that the "Close" button is no longer grayed out. None of the other boxes, and most specifically "Read", become editable.

Strange. I made a 2nd cable, also out of a genuine extension from em3ev and a usb-ttl cable from Grin Tech, and same outcome. I guess I'll try to borrow a friend's computer and see if I can make it work on another machine.

Best,
Henry

 

[Somebodystopme!!]

Thanks, Tom, for the help. Turns out that I didn't have the driver installed - I thought that windows would do that automatically.

I got the device to be recognized and assigned a port (COM4), but when I open the software and try to connect nothing happens except that the "Close" button is no longer grayed out. None of the other boxes, and most specifically "Read", become editable.

Strange. I made a 2nd cable, also out of a genuine extension from em3ev and a usb-ttl cable from Grin Tech, and same outcome. I guess I'll try to borrow a friend's computer and see if I can make it work on another machine.

Best,
Henry

That means your computer and cable are talking nicely. Make sure once you do that that you turn your battery on. It will not recognize the controller without battery voltage to the controller.

 

[liontail]

@ Ken Taylor - Thanks for the info! I think that it shouldn't be an issue for these cables in particular, because grin tech themselves provide that exact link for their cables (http://www.ebikes.ca/product-info/grin-products/cycle-analyst-3.html - scroll down). Maybe they're genuine FTDIs?

Both seem to be recognized ok by my computer in 1 of my 2 usb ports - the other gets a malfunction error for some reason. Probably has to do with my laptop more than anything.

@ Somebodystopme!! - I turn the battery on after I plug the cable into the bike and the laptop. Nada. The bike is working fine when I plug the display back in. And like I said before, the red LED on the speedo only turns on when the system is powered up and the wheel has started spinning, regardless of whether the display or programming cable is plugged in.

 

[Somebodystopme!!]

@ Ken Taylor - Thanks for the info! I think that it shouldn't be an issue for these cables in particular, because grin tech themselves provide that exact link for their cables (http://www.ebikes.ca/product-info/grin-products/cycle-analyst-3.html - scroll down). Maybe they're genuine FTDIs?

Both seem to be recognized ok by my computer in 1 of my 2 usb ports - the other gets a malfunction error for some reason. Probably has to do with my laptop more than anything.

@ Somebodystopme!! - I turn the battery on after I plug the cable into the bike and the laptop. Nada. The bike is working fine when I plug the display back in. And like I said before, the red LED on the speedo only turns on when the system is powered up and the wheel has started spinning, regardless of whether the display or programming cable is plugged in.

And you did check that the RX/TX are crossed over? iE the RX from the usb should go to the TX of the controller and vice versa.

 

[samsavvas]

Hi Folks,

I have a 36v/350watt BBS=01 installed on my LHT which functions as a commuter/all purpose run-around. It's a great combination, powered by one of EM3ev's 16ah frame batteries.

However I have an annoying problem with the controller. I've emailed Paul who indicates that is not sure how to resolve it. He has proposed a very welcome strategy to try to resolve the issue but I thought I'd ask here first.

The problem is:
- when I am in pedal-actuated mode (i.e.; not using the throttle) the bike can take up to 4-5 seconds of pedalling before the assistance kicks in. I've tried it in different gears to see if it's subjective on my part, but the outcome is the same.
- when using throttle (on the road and under load) the effect is the same - perhaps not quite as long a delay.
Obviously this delay can pose problems in traffic and is especially irksome when trying to drag off the lycra mob from the lights with a full load of shopping! Incidentally I do not have this issue with my other, 250watt kit - in both modes it responds more or less straight away!

Anyone have any idea if there's a controller parameter that governs how soon assistance/power kicks in in either or both modes? I have a programming cord and an old windows laptop somewhere so I can make up a connector and have a go at reprogramming if that's where a solution lies. But I don't want to mess around with the drive without knowing something about what I'm doing. I'm also mindful of the warnings about reliability etc that Paul has on his information page...

Thanks in anticipation!

Savvas.

 

[pjgold]

Anyone have any idea if there's a controller parameter that governs how soon assistance/power kicks in in either or both modes? I have a programming cord and an old windows laptop somewhere so I can make up a connector and have a go at reprogramming if that's where a solution lies. But I don't want to mess around with the drive without knowing something about what I'm doing. I'm also mindful of the warnings about reliability etc that Paul has on his information page...
/

There are a few settings that can help with lag, I would suggest that you get the cable and compare the software settings on both of your units. If you can post your current settings many people here can help you with them.

 

[astmacca]

Anyone have any idea if there's a controller parameter that governs how soon assistance/power kicks in in either or both modes? I have a programming cord and an old windows laptop somewhere so I can make up a connector and have a go at reprogramming if that's where a solution lies. But I don't want to mess around with the drive without knowing something about what I'm doing. I'm also mindful of the warnings about reliability etc that Paul has on his information page...

I'm using a BBS02 and PAS cuts in quite fast. Less than 1/3 of a turn. Hard to imagine how your could be taking 4-5 revs and would be very interested to see if you post your current parameters here when you find them out.

For BBS01 (same program and variables for programing as BBS02 i think) you may want to trawl back through this thread and look up Ken Taylor's posts as i think he has played around with parameters for the BBS01?

 

[bgt]

strange, my BBS-01/250W kicks in very fast.

 

[brianLEV]

hi, i also got my mid drive kit from em3ev and i also damaged the connectors.

the needles in the connectors are very fragile and can easily bent when you plug out.

Does anyone have all the wire colours to the motor, LCD, throttle, brake lever?

i hv to cut the connectors and resolder n change.

thanks

 

[Aushiker]

[youtube]BYMdcSWnbBo[/youtube]

Andrew

 

[tomjasz]

Nicely done!

 

[samsavvas]

Hi,
Has anyone had any luck programming their BBS-xx with a MacBook? Or should I just go out and buy a cheap Windows laptop?
thanks,
Savvas.

 

[tomjasz]

I use a virtualbox on mac works fine. First world motors and third world windoze...go figure. :wink:

https://www.virtualbox.org

 

[mwkeefer]

Hi,
Has anyone had any luck programming their BBS-xx with a MacBook? Or should I just go out and buy a cheap Windows laptop?
thanks,
Savvas.

I have Windows 7x64 installed via BootCamp but VirtualBox is just as good for our purposes.

Regards,
Mike

 

[rscamp]

FWIW.

I piggybacked on (plagiarized?) Kepler's post on the programming procedure and wrote a more detailed list including cable preparation over on Bentrider here:

http://www.bentrideronline.com/messageboard/showpost.php?p=1285440&postcount=74

 

[tomjasz]

Programmers have pushed Cell_man over the edge and he will no longer sell controllers to anyone who hadn't purchased a kit. It seems there are those who order controllers, fool with programing without proper understanding or guidance, fry their controllers and cry warranty. What a shame.


"NOTE: We are no longer offering Bafang BBS02 Controllers to anybody who wishes to order 1. We have them available, but will be listed as out of stock if they are ordered through the website. If you are an existing EM3ev customer, we can supply these controllers, just add a comment at checkout that you want to add a BBS02 Controller and the controller type to your order.
Please note that the controller in the BBS02 kit, is the only thing that can fail in a BBS02 kit. If you connect a good controller to a motor that has previously been overheated or has some sort of issue, it will cause the controller to malfunction and likely fail. DO NOT ASSUME THAT THE ONLY PROBLEM WITH YOUR NON-FUNCTIONAL BBS02 KIT IS THE CONTROLLER. If after connecting the new controller, it does not work as you would expect, stop and do some further checks. Please do not assume that we supplied a faulty controller because after you connected it, it made some funny noises, then stopped working after a short time. It is suggested that you at least do a visual inspection of the motor structure (opposite side of housing to the controller), looking for signs of overheating. A replacement controller will not fix burnt out motor windings!

NOTE: Also please note that the BBS02 controllers are easily damaged if programmed incorrectly. If you want to change the program settings, please do not expect them to be covered under warranty.

This a replacement controller intended for the 48V 750W Bafang BBS02, it can be used with either the 500W or 750W version. As can be seen in the images, the controller includes a section of the motor housing and all connnections. It may be necessary to change the battery supply connections, it does not come with the molded waterproof supply connection. The connections, housing etc do add quite a bit of cost, so it is relatively expensive.The sealed PCB makes them rather difficult to do a DIY repair, so it is much more practicle to simply swap the controller section.

The standard settings are as follows:

25A rated. Can be programmed to lower values as listed in options.
LVC (low voltage cut) 41V, suitable for 48V battery. Not suitable for 36V.
Will be configured so the throttle gives 100% assist no matter which assist level is selected.
Number of assist levels are adjustable by the display.
Wheel size can be adjusted from the display.
Speed limit can be set via the display."

 

[nioko]

I understand Cell_man's decision, it's what I would do if I were him.

But: I honestly don't see how the configuration should cause a controller or motor demage:
It's rated for 25a, that's the max that can be set.
It's temperature protected, it should cut off, or throttle the output when a temperature is reached.

Of course running it at 25a will cause more stress as running it on 20a.
Running it on a higher voltage, maybe combined with less sag (lipo or huge capacity pack) will of course add a lot of stress to the whole unit.

Am I missing something?

 

[astmacca]

But: I honestly don't see how the configuration should cause a controller or motor demage:

There are quite a few parameter that can be programmed. start current, keep current, and others that if you set them wrong, can i think, blow the controller under some circumstances. Any programming changes have to be strictly at your own risk which i think most people accept. That said and having accepted that risk, i think mine now suits MY personal usage better than when i took it out of the box.

 

[tomjasz]

In conversations with Paul, there are a number of pitfalls. My best advise is follow the lead of Kepler or one of those who have given tested tried and true tweaks. Experimenting with setting we don't understand can certainly blow a controller. The problem is with the asshats that don't man up and work vendors for warranty coverage on their poor choices. You have to pay to play. To those that screwed the pooch for the rest of us.. well I think the system scrambles the word but I think you get my drift.

 

[DaDo.Bzz]

Hello guys.

Does anybody know what is the logic behind programming parameters? As it does not make sence, I am measuring current and it goes behind the limit currents on basic tab. Also the speed is not as I setup. ( wheel not touching floor, just pedal assist, keep current 100%) Is there a manual where is explained every parameter? Found just from emax ebike just few params.

May I calculate Max current(A)=keep current(%) * limit current(%) * limited current(A)

Thanks

 

[DaDo.Bzz]

what is the latest firmware for 750W szz9? Is it possible to update?

Do we have some newer version of programming software as is on first page?

Thanks