Qulbix Q76R Frame Kits & Complete Bikes PRE-ORDER
- Thread starter Qulbix
- Start date
Lurkin
100 kW
I'll speak to whoever answers and get their advice. The returns policy is pretty clear on this on their website.
Rodney64
100 kW
Lurkin said:
Like i said before the bike shops not going to try and tap it in case it does bugger the thread. I would use some trefolex cutting oil and see how that goes and then trying a tap. just going in 1/2 thread at a time then removing the tap then cleaning the hole with cutting oil. I've built as few bikes up now and on all builds normally have an issue every time. I had the same issue on my Flux build. I dealt with the issue then shared the information on the forum.
And you haven't spoken to me, i tried to give you advise, you didn't even acknowledge it. I told you to take it to an engineering workshop. I don"t know any in Melbourne but do in Perth.
Lurkin
100 kW
Hi Rodney, I taken on board your advice. I just want to see what Qulbix have to say before proceeding with any changes to give them the opportunity to fix it if they can in their own way i.e. first right of reply. They may have a preferred vendor or solution to attempt first.
I have access to a tool maker (/highly skilled engineering firm) and a steel bike frame restoration place, but both are expensive options - we're on the same page in terms of the next step. If Qulbix has no advice/ cannot offer a solution, I'll be following up with them.
I have access to a tool maker (/highly skilled engineering firm) and a steel bike frame restoration place, but both are expensive options - we're on the same page in terms of the next step. If Qulbix has no advice/ cannot offer a solution, I'll be following up with them.
Rodney64
100 kW
Lurkin said:
Fair enough. Hope they get back to you then. I had a work shop at work so it makes things a bit simpler.
Lurkin
100 kW
Just off the phone with Qulbix...
They have advised their machine operates on some form of axial basis and they have denied that it is possible for a problem like this to occur given their manufacturing procedures/toolage as it is axial and I think he was saying it cuts both sides at once i.e. it cannot be on an angle? which makes sense but if the threads were perfect then why wont it just screw in? its pretty clean in there now. hmmm.... weird.... I think the inference is that I am being a bit of a wuss about this - which is fine by me, that will be the cheapest/fastest solution.
Qulbix's advice mimics that earlier in the thread - just grease to 'nam and force it through little by little backing off each time. I don''t really want to do that with the actual BB cup I want to use because it will probably damage its threads if, and only if, I can force it through very, very slowly. This still seems like the wrong approach, its a machined thread... if it was machined correctly (as it was on the other side) then with a bit of grease should go in without any real force until its tight and snug?
I've built bikes from scratch before - this is the first time the BB threads have been this average :? . I think I will go to a bike shop tomorrow and get a junk/cheap BB cup and follow the advice given. Given the BB cup will be made of softer metal, its unlikely it can damage the frame. Worst comes to worst, it will get stuck in there and require elbow grease to get it out. If that plan fails, plan B it is Rodney
it'll time to give the toolmakers a call. 8)
They have advised their machine operates on some form of axial basis and they have denied that it is possible for a problem like this to occur given their manufacturing procedures/toolage as it is axial and I think he was saying it cuts both sides at once i.e. it cannot be on an angle? which makes sense but if the threads were perfect then why wont it just screw in? its pretty clean in there now. hmmm.... weird.... I think the inference is that I am being a bit of a wuss about this - which is fine by me, that will be the cheapest/fastest solution.
Qulbix's advice mimics that earlier in the thread - just grease to 'nam and force it through little by little backing off each time. I don''t really want to do that with the actual BB cup I want to use because it will probably damage its threads if, and only if, I can force it through very, very slowly. This still seems like the wrong approach, its a machined thread... if it was machined correctly (as it was on the other side) then with a bit of grease should go in without any real force until its tight and snug?
I've built bikes from scratch before - this is the first time the BB threads have been this average :? . I think I will go to a bike shop tomorrow and get a junk/cheap BB cup and follow the advice given. Given the BB cup will be made of softer metal, its unlikely it can damage the frame. Worst comes to worst, it will get stuck in there and require elbow grease to get it out. If that plan fails, plan B it is Rodney
it'll time to give the toolmakers a call. 8)
Quokka
1 kW
Looking nice offroader. I am going to try a similar design, except a 3 kilowatt pack to make the fitting a bit more forgiving.
Quokka
1 kW
Offroader, one thing I don't understand is how you plan to run a bms? Your p's only seem to link current from 2 cells?
Quokka said:
I was wondering if anyone would notice that. Yes, the cells are not all paralleled so will not balance.
This is an easy fix as I can weld any nickel between the parallel groups.
However, I was thinking maybe I should put fuses between these parallel groups, this way in case of any shorts the pack is limited to shorting only 2 cells instead of all 14.
I figure the cells should stay balanced enough to where I would never exceed more than .2 amps between the parallel cells. Maybe I will weld a very thin 2mm wide nickel strip to act as a fuse in case of a short.
TheBMallory
10 W
- Joined
- Dec 24, 2014
- Messages
- 98
So I had a few rides now, it's my first full suspension bike and my first ebike. I juste came back from a ride and realized that going uphill is fun now ! you have a lot more traction and if you pedal you can do small jumps on every little bumps along the way.
my motor is a magic pie 5 and sometimes I wish I had a litlle more punch (does anyone know how it compares against a crystalyte HS3540 @48v ?) but it has some advantages : integrated and sine wave ESC (less wire and REALLY no noise at all). Overall I'm pretty happy with my build, there's always some things that could have been done better but as long as I enjoy riding on the singletracks I'm good !
[youtube]a7GJ_hf71oI[/youtube]
my motor is a magic pie 5 and sometimes I wish I had a litlle more punch (does anyone know how it compares against a crystalyte HS3540 @48v ?) but it has some advantages : integrated and sine wave ESC (less wire and REALLY no noise at all). Overall I'm pretty happy with my build, there's always some things that could have been done better but as long as I enjoy riding on the singletracks I'm good !
[youtube]a7GJ_hf71oI[/youtube]
TheBMallory
10 W
- Joined
- Dec 24, 2014
- Messages
- 98
The rear brake cable is still outside the frame. I didn't want to bleed it after disconnecting it. I'll probably do that when I change them : these are my old avid juicy 3 and I suspect they're taking a lot of abuse now
TheBMallory said:
Yes I understand completely. I have never bled my zee brakes yet also and don't really want to unless I have to. Which makes it impossible to route it through the frame unless you disconnect the hoses and then you have to bleed them.
Mammalian04
100 kW
Yes, the production quality on the Qulbixs are excellent.
Good question on the motor. Can't remember why. I think I recall something about the phase wire Fitment but don't quote me on that. Maybe someone actually knows and can chime in.
Good question on the motor. Can't remember why. I think I recall something about the phase wire Fitment but don't quote me on that. Maybe someone actually knows and can chime in.
The QS 205 v3 should fit no problem. I would think that Qulbix probably ordered a large quantity of the v2's for a discount and may have some of them in stock and still use them.
To be honest, depending on what you want to build you should consider the new MXUS v3 turbo. Much lighter hub motor with almost as much power. I'll be switching over to this motor from my cromotor, to reduce weight in the rear wheel by 3 to 4 kg.
To be honest, depending on what you want to build you should consider the new MXUS v3 turbo. Much lighter hub motor with almost as much power. I'll be switching over to this motor from my cromotor, to reduce weight in the rear wheel by 3 to 4 kg.
Lurkin
100 kW
Thanks for the advice guys. Ran the Park Tool BTS-1 through the threads, cups went in as they should 8)
I think it was just distorted threads from the welding/ powdercoating overspray, nothing serious. Headset and BB cups fitted!
Now, to sort out that battery....
I think it was just distorted threads from the welding/ powdercoating overspray, nothing serious. Headset and BB cups fitted!
Now, to sort out that battery....
icherouveim
1 kW
TheBMallory said:
Hello,
I have both of the motors so I can tell you a few words,
1) The Magic Pie is a huge motor that's why it has lot of torque, I think is the best at the market if you want to stay at 25A - 1000-1200W, also there is a trick, you can use 14S battery to get a little bit higher speed and extra power.
I have to mention that magic pie gives you the double regenerative braking power compared to the HS3540.
on the other hand it not easy to upgrade. You have to take it apart to install thicker phase wires and a thermal sensor then you will be able to use an external powerful controller. it can handle easily 4000w and it's a beast.
2)HS3540 is lighter but even when you set up the controller at 35A is dead (very weak). when it works at 70A with my mini-e is fun to drive but after 15 minutes it gets hot at 95 Celsius and the controller reduces the
power in order not to burn the motor. when I go uphill it goes well but the power consumption is about three times higher compared to Magic pie.
The nominal voltage of my battery pack is 51,8 volts and it can gives continually up to 200A.
you can write me if you have any questions.
I attach you two Photos.
Attachments
I started to dismantle my raptor 165.
Happy that I won't have to deal with lipo packs anymore. Take a look at that mess, a few packs were puffed as is normal, and even a negative wire on a pack was torn off. I squeezed a lot of packs into my raptor 165, so I could never keep them from getting damaged. I am very surprised I never had any fires.
Getting those packs and wires in there for the side covers to shut used to take a very long time. I maxed out the battery space in the 165, similar to what I am doing with my new build. I'll be making sure the battery is much more stable and secure in my new build.
Old 2.3 KW lipo pack and wires weighed in at 38.9 lBS (17.6 KG) (including cardboard box)
NEW 3.5 KW 18650 pack weiged in at 30.8 lbs (14 KG) I would say about .5 lbs or .25 KG more weight to finish it.
So I get around 50% more capacity in my new pack, with a 20% weight reduction.
However, my 20C lipo packs could put out 700 battery amps continuous at 18s.
My 18650 pack can only put out 140 amps continuous at 20s.
Considering that I only use 85 battery amps (set in Max-E) with my lipo packs, most of the 700 continuous output was a waste of weight, so the 140 battery amps on my new pack should be more then sufficient. I'll probably only set it to 100 amps in my max-e, most likely probably keep it at 85 for 20s.
Happy that I won't have to deal with lipo packs anymore. Take a look at that mess, a few packs were puffed as is normal, and even a negative wire on a pack was torn off. I squeezed a lot of packs into my raptor 165, so I could never keep them from getting damaged. I am very surprised I never had any fires.
Getting those packs and wires in there for the side covers to shut used to take a very long time. I maxed out the battery space in the 165, similar to what I am doing with my new build. I'll be making sure the battery is much more stable and secure in my new build.
Old 2.3 KW lipo pack and wires weighed in at 38.9 lBS (17.6 KG) (including cardboard box)
NEW 3.5 KW 18650 pack weiged in at 30.8 lbs (14 KG) I would say about .5 lbs or .25 KG more weight to finish it.
So I get around 50% more capacity in my new pack, with a 20% weight reduction.
However, my 20C lipo packs could put out 700 battery amps continuous at 18s.
My 18650 pack can only put out 140 amps continuous at 20s.
Considering that I only use 85 battery amps (set in Max-E) with my lipo packs, most of the 700 continuous output was a waste of weight, so the 140 battery amps on my new pack should be more then sufficient. I'll probably only set it to 100 amps in my max-e, most likely probably keep it at 85 for 20s.
Some comparison photos of the Q76 and the Raptor 165.
I still can't believe how much thinner the frame is.
The frame you see in the picture, The Raptor 165 is about 18 lbs (8.16kG) The Q76R is about 10 lbs (4.5kg) including aluminum side covers and shock mount . This is only what is seen in the picture, with no seat or swingarm.
Swingarm weight for the Q76R is 5.1 (2.3kg) lbs and the Raptor 165 is 6.6 lbs (3kg)
The Q76R top of the frame is lower when lining up the bottom brackets and bottom of head tube. The Q76R frame is also lower at the bottom than the raptor 165.
I can't believe I rode around in this wide frame. But it was actually very comfortable with the motorcycle seat and also since I didn't pedal.
You can see the Q76R is lower at the top. May benefit shorter riders.
The Q76R is lower at the bottom. I guess this will lower the center of gravity. I assume it is better to have it lower the the bottom.
I still can't believe how much thinner the frame is.
The frame you see in the picture, The Raptor 165 is about 18 lbs (8.16kG) The Q76R is about 10 lbs (4.5kg) including aluminum side covers and shock mount . This is only what is seen in the picture, with no seat or swingarm.
Swingarm weight for the Q76R is 5.1 (2.3kg) lbs and the Raptor 165 is 6.6 lbs (3kg)
The Q76R top of the frame is lower when lining up the bottom brackets and bottom of head tube. The Q76R frame is also lower at the bottom than the raptor 165.
I can't believe I rode around in this wide frame. But it was actually very comfortable with the motorcycle seat and also since I didn't pedal.
You can see the Q76R is lower at the top. May benefit shorter riders.
The Q76R is lower at the bottom. I guess this will lower the center of gravity. I assume it is better to have it lower the the bottom.
markz
100 TW
You were riding bob-legged.
Made some progress with securing the battery in the frame. Using foam, and specifically closed cell foam works very well, good tip. The battery is surrounded by foam which is pressed up against the fame and the battery. It holds the battery centered and tight, even though I am not pushing into the foam very much. Works better than I expected.
The only issue is if the foam will shrink or thin out. Since I'm not squeezing it very tightly and it is distributed over a very large area and is a closed cell foam, maybe it won't happen. I'll have to check every so often and add a thin strip to the bottom of the foam if it does. Not a big deal. The foam kind of hugs or circles around each individual cell and holds the battery in place. The side covers will squeeze the battery from the sides to secure it from almost any movement.
Buying 3" thick closed cell foam (The frame width) makes it easy to cut and place around the battery. You can easily secure any size battery with this foam very easily. It is also extremely light weight so you can fill large areas without adding weight to the bike. 3" x 12" x 12" weighs .5 lbs. I used only a small portion of that.
I'm putting a lot of hours into getting this bike completed, should be up and running by next week. Building and placing such a ridiculously large battery has caused me many additional hours of work to build the battery and make sure it fits securely inside the battery compartment. I am too embarrassed even want to tell you how many hours this project is taking because of this battery. But I believe it will be worth it when I have 3.5 KW of power on a very tiny frame.
I thought by going with the Q76r I would have to give up the high capacity I wanted in a long range bike and wasn't too happy about that, but now I don't have to give it up by fitting this large battery, even though it took a lot more work than I anticipated. Now I can explore the rest of NYC.
The only issue is if the foam will shrink or thin out. Since I'm not squeezing it very tightly and it is distributed over a very large area and is a closed cell foam, maybe it won't happen. I'll have to check every so often and add a thin strip to the bottom of the foam if it does. Not a big deal. The foam kind of hugs or circles around each individual cell and holds the battery in place. The side covers will squeeze the battery from the sides to secure it from almost any movement.
Buying 3" thick closed cell foam (The frame width) makes it easy to cut and place around the battery. You can easily secure any size battery with this foam very easily. It is also extremely light weight so you can fill large areas without adding weight to the bike. 3" x 12" x 12" weighs .5 lbs. I used only a small portion of that.
I'm putting a lot of hours into getting this bike completed, should be up and running by next week. Building and placing such a ridiculously large battery has caused me many additional hours of work to build the battery and make sure it fits securely inside the battery compartment. I am too embarrassed even want to tell you how many hours this project is taking because of this battery. But I believe it will be worth it when I have 3.5 KW of power on a very tiny frame.
I thought by going with the Q76r I would have to give up the high capacity I wanted in a long range bike and wasn't too happy about that, but now I don't have to give it up by fitting this large battery, even though it took a lot more work than I anticipated. Now I can explore the rest of NYC.
Allex
100 MW
Great, the closed cell foam will settle down and compress after some time so I would check it after a week or so.
