Replacing halls on a BMC V3

Philistine

100 kW
Joined
Aug 15, 2010
Messages
1,736
Has anyone replaced halls on a BMC V3? I have searched the forum but can't find anything. I have replaced halls before on a 9C, but they are pretty straightforward, with the BMC there is a circuit board that sits over the three halls, I can't work out how you could get away with replacing only one, I presume I will need to solder off the whole board, and effectively replace all three halls, as I can't see how I am not going to damage the two good halls getting the circuit board off.

Interested in any advice people have who have done this, the photo below (from Illia's site) shows the circuit board I am talking about:

hall-sensors-diagram.jpg
 
Having had a closer look, I think I just need to use a heat gun to loosen the epoxy, then pull out the hall, slide a new one in from underneath, solder in the legs, and trim, and re-epoxy. I had just never seen them put into a board like this before. I will update this thread after my attempt for posterity. Fingers crossed.
 
For the Mac which looks very similar, you would normally pull the pcb off and replace all 3 sensors, fit a new pcb also if possible. If you are careful you might be able to pull the pcb away from the stator without breaking the legs on the sensors, leaving them in the stator. I doubt you could pull the sensors out of the slots, they should be epoxied in with high temp epoxy.

When Mac motors are assembled, the sensors are fitted in the slots with epoxy, then the pcb is fitted, soldered and epoxy is then fitted.
 
THanks Cell Man. That was my thought as well, that I would have to replace all three. I think it would be very difficult to get just the one hall out without damaging the other two.

Upon reviewing it, it actually appears that I might be allright, and that in fact what happened was the point where the wire connects to the top of the PCB had come away one one sensor, I am yet to reattach the wire permanatently, but it it appears that the sensors are ok, it was the wiring that came off the PCB.

Thanks for the advice though, even if I get the PCB connection back and it works, only a matter of time before I have to replace a hall at some point. Cheers, Phil.
 
If you ask ilia, he would suggest to replace all the sensors and forget the pcb board. This is the plan for my broken bmc v3 motor.

Good luck with the motor.
 
If you ask ilia, he would suggest to replace all the sensors and forget the pcb board. This is the plan for my broken bmc v3 motor.

Good luck with the motor.

I wondered what purpose the PCB board served, so can you just rewire it like a 9C with the wires going straight to the halls?
 
Philistine said:
If you ask ilia, he would suggest to replace all the sensors and forget the pcb board. This is the plan for my broken bmc v3 motor.

Good luck with the motor.

I wondered what purpose the PCB board served, so can you just rewire it like a 9C with the wires going straight to the halls?

If you look at the diagram, you will find a cap on the pcb. I presume that you will have to do something similar. The board makes it easy and clean.

Good luck. I will be doing the same thing for my bmc v3 soon once I get a hold of the sensors.
 
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