Sending E-brake signal with hydraulic brakes

[thunderstorm80]

Hi,
I am looking for a solution, without having to downgrade my hydraulic brakes to mechanical ones. (So I can use the E-brake cable lever)
I know Grin is working on this, but it still unknown when it's going to be commerical, and I don't want to be without regen until then. (I live in a very hilly place)

Do you know of a solution to add some sort of micro switch/magnetic switch to the existing hydraulic-brake lever?
I can improvise something myself, but I prefer something sturdy, or hopefully - a turn-key product for that purpose.
I don't want to buy a complete new set of hydraulic brakes just for that, because usually those products from China are of inferior quality.

 

[Ykick]

I feel your pain brother.

The best I’ve come up with is using magnetic reed switches glued to the brake lever housing and a magnet glued to the lever. Or, vice-versa.

Depending on the situation and controller I’ve used either NC or NO reed switches.

For Bafang BBSXX drives which use Hall sensor switching and magnets I’ve even disassembled the levers, scavenged the hall sensor and glued that up while maintaining the funky brake sensor logic they employ.

The biggest problem is gluing stuff at the exact position needed to work most reliably.

Best thing is to make a little LED test circuit with a small battery so that you can test switching. Then use hot glue to tack the parts in location and road test it. Once you’re satisfied with the location/position of everything a small dollop of epoxy glue will seal the deal.

The good news is that this can often be accomplished under the lever so that it doesn’t look like shit.

 

[Johne-bike]

I have 2 Fatbikes with Hydraulic Disc Brakes. one is fitted with Tektro Gemini Levers and Brakes, and the other Has Shimano hydraulics. On both bikes, I am using Wuxing micro switches, removed from the Wuxing Mechanical Brake levers that came as part of an ebike kit and not required.The Micro switches work perfectly, and are already fitted with a JST plug, which works with most Controllers.
I make a rubber cover from a piece of discarded inner tube and cut it that it makes a tight shroud around the length of the switch, and superglue the rubber cover along the join to make a cone shaped sleeve covering the switch.This provides some cushioning, but as important if prevents the switch sliding and moving on the brake handle after it is Cable Tied into position. In this photo, my first version of the mod,I wrapped the rubber cover around the switch and secured it with electrical insulation tape. Now I prefer to make the aforementioned tailored rubber sleeve, and just close off the end where the wire harness exits the switch with insulation tape or heat shrinktubing.
The L shaped activation lever, fitted to the Brake handle is formed from a piece of Brass offcut, from a discarded household electrical plug socket. After cutting it to size, I bend it to shape so there is room to lock it to the brake handle with a couple of cable ties, the before fitting it, cover with Black heat shrink tube for a nice appearance. Then I lock it in place slightly loose, so that I can adjust the strike position on the micro switch, to ensure it is cutting the motor when the brake lever is pulled a short distance. Once satisfied with the sensitivity of activation, lock the cable ties tight. For security and reliability, I drop a spot of Cyno adhesive on the join between the Brake lever and the brake switch activation lever, just between the 2 locking cable ties.
I have been using these for a long time, and they work perfectly. I thoroughly recommend these switches and mounting system!
View attachment 1

 

[thunderstorm80]

Thank you for your responses, but these solutions are improvisations, which never last long - and in my opinion, can be quite dangerous:
For example you are cruising at 100% throttle voltage at high speed, and all of a sudden the switch moves and engage your e-brake with the 100% throttle. And it can pulsate, to make it worse.
That's why I look only for turn-key products, if any...
If not, I may downgrade to mechanical brakes (Anyway the motor is doing most of the braking work), or:
I install a second throttle, dedicated for braking only - I will mount that one to the blue signal wire of the Phaserunner (after spliting the green and the blue wires), and I will map the braking voltage to increase like the throttle voltage increase instead of the regular 0.85V->0.0V map.
I tried the half-twist throttle with the e-brake button, but that button is installed in such an awkward place it's really hard to use it!
Did any of you find a comfortable way to use it? (For bikes with gear shifters)

 

[Ykick]

Maybe a more "pro" thing would be hydro switches? http://www.ebike-solutions.com/en/shop/electronic-accessories/e-brakes/magura-kill-switch-for-hydraulic-brakes.html

 

[WoodlandHills]

 

[leelorr]

I use the reed switches with magnets "JB_welded" underneath the brake lever and have never had a problem. When I was installing them and looking for the best position, I could hear the relay switch click inside the switch while adjusting the magnet position.

 

[Anthologist1871]

There are 2 ebike hydraulic brakes on the market at this time. The Tektro Dorado, which are purchased separately for around 230 to $275. However, they are complete with hose, rotor, & wiring.

 

[motomech]

Thank you for your responses, but these solutions are improvisations, which never last long - and in my opinion, can be quite dangerous:
For example you are cruising at 100% throttle voltage at high speed, and all of a sudden the switch moves and engage your e-brake with the 100% throttle. And it can pulsate, to make it worse.
That's why I look only for turn-key products, if any...
If not, I may downgrade to mechanical brakes (Anyway the motor is doing most of the braking work), or:
I install a second throttle, dedicated for braking only - I will mount that one to the blue signal wire of the Phaserunner (after spliting the green and the blue wires), and I will map the braking voltage to increase like the throttle voltage increase instead of the regular 0.85V->0.0V map.
I tried the half-twist throttle with the e-brake button, but that button is installed in such an awkward place it's really hard to use it!
Did any of you find a comfortable way to use it? (For bikes with gear shifters)

Thank you for your responses, but these solutions are improvisations, which never last long - and in my opinion, can be quite dangerous:.......That's why I look only for turn-key products

If we all had that kind of attitude, I don't think any of the posters here would have the ebke they have. Improvisation has been a big part of the 5 Ebike builds I have done over the last 6 years and I'm still around. Perhaps the industry will evolve to the point where there is a "turn-key" solution to every contingency, but I don't think that day is here yet. And that's ok, because that sounds a little boring.

 

[ecycler]

Thank you for your responses, but these solutions are improvisations, which never last long - and in my opinion, can be quite dangerous

What will not last long about a magnet, epoxy, and a reed switch? You do realize these are going to be the same parts in the manufactured versions that come from the factories in china, right? The only difference is that you will have the control to obtain the highest quality materials. The epoxied magnet comes loose in throttles quite often.

Brake lever activated regen is not for me. It does not allow the nuanced brake control needed for precise performance riding. I use a separate button to activate it at will. With some controllers you can then use the throttle to increase the regen strength.

 

[thunderstorm80]

If we all had that kind of attitude, I don't think any of the posters here would have the ebke they have. Improvisation has been a big part of the 5 Ebike builds I have done over the last 6 years and I'm still around. Perhaps the industry will evolve to the point where there is a "turn-key" solution to every contingency, but I don't think that day is here yet. And that's ok, because that sounds a little boring.

You are right on one hand - most of my E-bikes are improvisations, but there are areas where I wouldn't dare. Brakes should never be tampered with.
Of course that's just my opinion.