THE BEST mid drive derailleur set up!

[Ozziebike]

Proof!

 

[Ozziebike]

OK! even though my shocks are stuffed at the moment, I was able to put them back together and ride the bike (no jumps on dodgy shocks though).
I managed to get the gears PERFECT! As I had assumed the ratios of the derailleur and shifter weren't perfect, BUT, i knew that in all likelyhood the derailleur was 1.2:1 and the shifer 1:1. So I did the maths and figured out that I needed to lengthen the pivot point by roughly 6mm, I then realised that the simplest answer was the best, just whack the cable over on the other side of the screw! Perhaps long term I will cut out a little channel, but it is absolutely perfect for now so I ecstatic!

The shimano XT shadow plus with a 7 speed chain and cassette is a-frikn-mazing!

 

[Ozziebike]

Already ordered a chain thanks, but I'll consider it for my next one (I know it'll wear out pretty fast with 1,500w of power going through it ).

 

[Samd]

I use a lot of X3 shifters mated to x4 derailleurs. Works fine at 7 speed.
Think I've bought up most of the x3 shifters around.

The ultimate would be a 3 speed. The cogs inbetween are moot.
I'm working on it.

 

[Alan B]

Ok I might approach this another way....

What have people successfully used on their mid drives? (1.5-2kw)

You better ask which gears was ever created to handle 1.5-2kw? = None
The best athlete can stress the bicycle gears with 300W of energy.

You better start thinking of a belt drive solution equal to what cars using so to move their alternator. :lol:

There is a lot of misinformation here.

I'm no athlete and I see peaks of 500-600W of pedal power.

Athletes can hit 2,000W peak power for a short time, so a quality bicycle drive system should handle that level for awhile. It may wear fairly quickly, but it should not immediately break.

Alternator belts handle modest power, most alternators are 1KW or less.

The big problem with mid drives is the torque peaks. That's what breaks parts. A torque type controller would solve the problem, but most ebike controllers are setting PWM from throttle, and not even measuring torque (motor current) directly. So during low speed acceleration the torque peaks way beyond the settings and blows up driveline parts.