The best solution to keep the chain in place?

andrenoites

100 W
Joined
Aug 29, 2013
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149
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Portugal
correct tension and alignment?

Chain looks a little slack to me. can not see how well the sprockets are aligned from that picture
 
The chain that some times came off is the chain from the inner front plate to the rear transmission (8 gears cassette)
 
well similar thing applies..maybe try winding the tension screw on the derailleur in a bit, so it pulls the derailleur backwards more, thereby putting more tension on the chain. Maybe even a different derailleur?
 
I agree with the comment above
check also if the screws to set the limits of the derasilleur got loose,
(have a closer look and you should see if this screw touches the derailleur when you are at the gear giving u this jumping)
... or your chain is a bit too long (side pics in low gear and high gear would help) :wink:
 
Judging from your pics on the build-thread My guess is that is a combination of chain slack, long cage and bad chainline...a proper roller on the lower and a guide on the upper side would be the best; shorter chain/more tension/proper chain-line, and a shorter rear derailleur cage, are easy strategies to start with.
 
For your consideration:

Side pics in low gear and high gear:

20131121_201842.jpg

As Neilp suggested, shall I clockwise the tension screw?

20131121_201904.jpg

Thank you all for the suggestions :)
 
This style of chain guide is significantly cheaper than the more encapsulating top-guide big brand units and do almost as a good a job.

cr-a09_shainguide.jpg
 
andrenoites said:
Side pics in low gear and high gear:
As Neilp suggested, shall I clockwise the tension screw?
thxs for the pics, looks fine
go ahead with Neilp's suggestion: it can only help
The tuning I suggested refers to the other screws
reglageButeeInt3.gif

reglageButeeExt1.gif

Feel free to let us know if it helped
 
boostjuice said:
This style of chain guide is significantly cheaper than the more encapsulating top-guide big brand units and do almost as a good a job.

cr-a09_shainguide.jpg

I have bad experience with these. They fail quickly since the sleeve bearings are prone to dirt. Additionally, an upper roller guide leads to rumble in the chain, which feels uncomfortable while pedaling... I would go for a box guide or fixed derailler and a single front chainwheel. Common multi chainwheels have hyperglide pockets that often lead to chain loss
 
crossbreak said:
boostjuice said:
This style of chain guide is significantly cheaper than the more encapsulating top-guide big brand units and do almost as a good a job.

I have bad experience with these. They fail quickly since the sleeve bearings are prone to dirt. Additionally, an upper roller guide leads to rumble in the chain, which feels uncomfortable while pedaling... I would go for a box guide or fixed derailler and a single front chainwheel. Common multi chainwheels have hyperglide pockets that often lead to chain loss

Yes, subscribed....
Unless you use a quality roller with 2 enduro sealed bearing like my MRP ones this is not the best solution and the roller upside isn't good as a guide is, I'm still using one on my bike but again is a quality roller and is used just like a guide without contact with a straight chain....and mine is a pedal transmission with single chainring on a FS freeride machine with 180mm of rear travel...

Didn’t realize there's a double setup, indeed, so there are 3 chainring in this crank-drive?
 
I just keep the front derailer on the bike, and use that to keep the chain from popping off the top.

I'm waiting for a bottom roller to arrive for my downhill e-bike, but for normal riding on footpaths and stuff the top derailer is enough (adjusted right).
 
Increasing the tension on the rear derailleur seems to work

One week since and zero times the chain came off

Let's hope I's fixed :)
 
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