GmagNeato
100 W
I greatly appreciate you checking that. Sounds like the combo would be a perfect fit for 2.5" tire. I may look at moped tires that size, as I'd like to go as wide as my frame will allow.
Paladin said:Dang!
You guys broke the Holmes spoke machine.../cry.
No more custom spokes.
Avitt said:I made the truing stand from 80/20 extruded aluminum.
Lurkin said:Avitt said:I made the truing stand from 80/20 extruded aluminum.
What are the gauges called, where do I get them from and are they expensive? looks like an excellent set up there.
Avitt said:Lurkin said:What are the gauges called, where do I get them from and are they expensive? looks like an excellent set up there.
They're called dial indicators. I use the Mitutoyo brand, which I purchased from eBay for about $35 each. There are less expensive models available. I also bought the magnetic base and various other accessories on eBay.
by Chalo » Wed Oct 21, 2015 2:51 pm
The point with a wheel is not to make the spoke more tangential to the hub, but to have an effective lever arm radius at which the spoke is tangent. Once an adequate lever arm is established, other factors such as spoke insertion angle must also be accommodated.
When lacing an old fashioned rear hub with a 41mm flange diameter, of course more tangential lacing is better-- because the longest lever you have available is only about 20mm.
With a large diameter hub motor, the radius at the spoke tangent (even with cross-one lacing) is much bigger than that, so fractional-cross lacing makes sense, especially when it allows more reasonable insertion angles.
Crossed/interlaced spoking doesn't provide better lateral bracing than non-crossed spoking unless the uncrossed spokes are laced all inside the flange (reducing bracing angle). If the spokes are laced all outside the flange, then the lateral bracing of the wheel is slightly improved compared to traditional alternating lacing.
This is to express my gratitude to Justin of Grin Technologies for his extraordinary measures to save this forum for the benefit of all.
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Re: The wheel-building spoke-lacing thread, post your tips
Postby justin_le » Wed Oct 21, 2015 6:11 pm
+1 a million times over to everything that Chalo just said.
Crossing spokes does not make your wheel "strong" or or add anything in terms of stiffness to the wheel. For the best lateral strength, you can have all the spokes laced outside the flange (ie. heads on the inside) to increase the triangulation, and only cross the spoke as necessary to get an adequate lever arm effect for transmitting the motor torque to the rim. In almost all cases with hub motors, that means single cross on evenly spaced flange holes, and no cross for paired spoke holes that have an intrinsic offset in them.
markz said:Whats a good angle then 45-55 degrees?
Cross Pattern: Most hub motors are laced with a single cross pattern. There is no point at all in having 2 or more crosses with the large flange diameters of most hub motors, and doing so will usually result the spoke entering the rim at a very difficult angle. Small geared hubs can be laced into large diameter (>26") rims with a double cross pattern OK, and large direct drive motors in small (<=20") rims usually can only be laced radially with 0 cross. If you have a motor with paired spoke holes, then a 0 cross pattern still has a spoke angle for transmitting torque, and there is no need for even single crossing the spokes.
Spoke Angle: This is the angle between the spoke and the tangent line of the rim. Generally speaking, if the angle is more than 80 degrees then it can be laced with relative ease. If the angle is less than 75 degrees, then the spoke nipples will have some difficulty in angling in the same direction as the spokes, and you may need to either put a bend in the spoke so that it enters the rim a bit more radially, or drill out the rim holes slightly larger so that the nipples have more freedom to pivot. Angles less than about 70 degrees are quite problematic and best avoided.
Avitt said:I made the truing stand from 80/20 extruded aluminum. It wasn't the cheapest option, but was far less than a commercial stand with the same capability.
LewTwo said:I did that as well ...
.... what pray tell are the screw drivers that are tie wrapped to the top for ?
I just happened to have that piece available. I also started without dial indicators --- just using rounded off bolts as 'indicators'. The anchor for the indicator turned out to be a bit too close to the columns (a work in progress). I actually prefer your approach with the magnetic base.Avitt said:Nice! Beefy. I like the way you've anchored the dial indicator to the base.
Very organized.Avitt said:I'm just using the top of my stand for tool storage (with a tie-wraps to keep the screwdrivers from falling out of the slots).