I got this bike a while (March 2019) back for cheap as a backup bike I can actually straddle *and* get my legs over, though I don't really like regular saddle-type bikes anymore, it's better than not having a backup, and it's light enough to take on a bus or light rail if i had to, which I couldn't do with anything else I presently have working. Plus the wheels are 700c so large enough to roll over much of the road problems without suspension and not completely kill me (I doubt I'd be going more than 10-15mph on this bike, not the 20mph I'd go on my SB Cruiser trike, for instance).
I don't intend to spend any money I don't have to on this, as it's only for backup use, in case the trike isn't working and I have to go to work or something.
Wturber gave me a new (700c x14) tire for it (the "spare" 700x35c I had was much fatter than the frame would allow), but it took me until today to simultaneously get the time and energy to put it on. Unfortunately I simply can't get the tire on there; it should be the right size but it's possible it's just a tiny bit too small. More likely, I'm just not capable of pushing hard enough on the edge to get it on there. The tube is squished so closely inside it that I can't use a lever, or i"ll pinch the tube. I may have to just get a 700c x 25 tire (like the Bontragers that the specs below say came on it).
Kinda sad since the completely smooth surface of the clincher Wturber gave me would've been perfect for the friction drive roller interface.
I also need to either get a Presta to Schrader valve adapter for my pump, or replace the tubes with Schrader versions, as I can't presently air up the tires anyway.
I haven't decided what shifters and brake levers I'll use on the MTB bars I've changed it to (from the drop bars it had), nor have I worked out a riser stem solution for it (have ideas, probably parts) to put the bars up high enough for me to ride upright (I can't ride bent over forward anymore).
I dug out the Kepler drive and accessories; old pic of them when they arrived
and old pic of a test fit on the Nishik-E
Originally came from Bikefanatic several years ago and was going to go on the Nishik-E build but never found a good way to mount it on that frame; just a bad mismatch of shapes, and various things kept me from ever designing and building the other (mid) drive I wanted to put on that bike, plus I became unable to easily ride it as the frame is very tall for me (I can straddle it, but only just barely, and getting my legs over it to get on is difficult at best, and impossible more and more often).
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=33246
I may move the frame bag from the Nishik-E to this bike, along with the handlebar bag and under-seat bag.
Doesnt' need a huge battery, could probably use RC LiPo but don't trust the stuff I have very much, and don't want to buy any. I'll probably make an EIG NMC pack for it with as few series cells as the system can run on (castle controller, forget which one) and still do waht it has to; it'll be about four times larger than a similar RC Lipo pack would be, because it's four times the typical capacity, plus cell holder frames. Might need a rear rack holder for it; would rather make something to put it on the front instead, fixed to the frame but out over the front wheel (don't think it'd fit in the frame).
(I also have an old Luna pack, 13s4p I think, basically a rectangular block, so same mounting issues, but it's smaller capacity and less capable).
It'll be throttle-only unless someone comes up with a cheap prebuilt way to make it PAS (I can think of several DIY ways to make cadence PAS sensors create a throttle voltage, but don't really think I'll ever build any of them, especially for a backup bike I am not likely to use much).
Lighting...I'm going to put LED lighting strips (like I have on the back / etc of SB Cruiser) as marker and turn signals, and for visibility, covering as much surface area of fork legs and seat stays facing forward and rearward as possible, plus side markers in the same places, and downlighting on the downtube and bottom of chainstays and handlebars. Headlight...dunno. Don't have much of anything that is useful except car headlights, so I'll have to figure that out.
Original post link in my trike thread:
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=67833&p=1456316
Most of the text from that:
...ran across a $25 complete working Trek 1000 Alpha road bike, whose only problem I could find was a bad (torn up) rear tire and tube, and some issue (probably adjustment) with the left (front) shifter.
But unlike anything else I already have (other than a little bmx) the frame is the right height for me to be able to step over it, without practically laying it down. I'd have to put the seat down to just above the toptube, but I could actually ride this one even with my knees/etc the way they are. (I can't hardly get on the Nishiki/etc anymore; too tall). It probably woudln't be easy to pedal, but I have an old Kepler friction drive that wouldn't fit the Nishiki frame without major mods to teh drive / clamp, that would only take a couple of small plates to change the angle and "lenght" of the seatpost clamp to fit with teh seat that close to the frame.
Random internet pic of one that looks like it, till I can get pics of mine:
AFAICT it's a 2003:
https://www.bicyclebluebook.com/SearchListingDetail.aspx?id=91963&make=750&model=65313
AFAICT everything was still original except the brake pads (which are still soft and pliable, not all rock hard or rotted), and possibly the cable housings (which are all Jagwire), and the tires (which I forget what they are) and tubes (which are slime brand). Oh, and the pedals are plastic Trek brand for regular shoes, but from what I can tell it should've come with the type for clip-in shoes.
One interesting part I've never run into before is the Sora shifter/brake levers, where you move them *sideways* to shift gears up, and pull them normaly to brake (with a thumb tab to shift back down). Unfortunatley they seem to be designed such that they can't be used with "flat" handlebars,
I can't lean forward to ride, so have to change the stem, and probably the handlebars (and definitely the saddle; I can't do the sknny saddles anymore). I mgiht be able to flip the bars over so the lower horns stick up instead,and flip the brake lever/shifters over. If not, I'll have to swap the Sora shifter/brakes for separate shifter/brakes. (or maybe the integrated ones off the old fusin test bike)
I don't intend to spend any money I don't have to on this, as it's only for backup use, in case the trike isn't working and I have to go to work or something.
Wturber gave me a new (700c x14) tire for it (the "spare" 700x35c I had was much fatter than the frame would allow), but it took me until today to simultaneously get the time and energy to put it on. Unfortunately I simply can't get the tire on there; it should be the right size but it's possible it's just a tiny bit too small. More likely, I'm just not capable of pushing hard enough on the edge to get it on there. The tube is squished so closely inside it that I can't use a lever, or i"ll pinch the tube. I may have to just get a 700c x 25 tire (like the Bontragers that the specs below say came on it).
Kinda sad since the completely smooth surface of the clincher Wturber gave me would've been perfect for the friction drive roller interface.
I also need to either get a Presta to Schrader valve adapter for my pump, or replace the tubes with Schrader versions, as I can't presently air up the tires anyway.
I haven't decided what shifters and brake levers I'll use on the MTB bars I've changed it to (from the drop bars it had), nor have I worked out a riser stem solution for it (have ideas, probably parts) to put the bars up high enough for me to ride upright (I can't ride bent over forward anymore).
I dug out the Kepler drive and accessories; old pic of them when they arrived
and old pic of a test fit on the Nishik-E
Originally came from Bikefanatic several years ago and was going to go on the Nishik-E build but never found a good way to mount it on that frame; just a bad mismatch of shapes, and various things kept me from ever designing and building the other (mid) drive I wanted to put on that bike, plus I became unable to easily ride it as the frame is very tall for me (I can straddle it, but only just barely, and getting my legs over it to get on is difficult at best, and impossible more and more often).
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=33246
I may move the frame bag from the Nishik-E to this bike, along with the handlebar bag and under-seat bag.
Doesnt' need a huge battery, could probably use RC LiPo but don't trust the stuff I have very much, and don't want to buy any. I'll probably make an EIG NMC pack for it with as few series cells as the system can run on (castle controller, forget which one) and still do waht it has to; it'll be about four times larger than a similar RC Lipo pack would be, because it's four times the typical capacity, plus cell holder frames. Might need a rear rack holder for it; would rather make something to put it on the front instead, fixed to the frame but out over the front wheel (don't think it'd fit in the frame).
(I also have an old Luna pack, 13s4p I think, basically a rectangular block, so same mounting issues, but it's smaller capacity and less capable).
It'll be throttle-only unless someone comes up with a cheap prebuilt way to make it PAS (I can think of several DIY ways to make cadence PAS sensors create a throttle voltage, but don't really think I'll ever build any of them, especially for a backup bike I am not likely to use much).
Lighting...I'm going to put LED lighting strips (like I have on the back / etc of SB Cruiser) as marker and turn signals, and for visibility, covering as much surface area of fork legs and seat stays facing forward and rearward as possible, plus side markers in the same places, and downlighting on the downtube and bottom of chainstays and handlebars. Headlight...dunno. Don't have much of anything that is useful except car headlights, so I'll have to figure that out.
Original post link in my trike thread:
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=67833&p=1456316
Most of the text from that:
...ran across a $25 complete working Trek 1000 Alpha road bike, whose only problem I could find was a bad (torn up) rear tire and tube, and some issue (probably adjustment) with the left (front) shifter.
But unlike anything else I already have (other than a little bmx) the frame is the right height for me to be able to step over it, without practically laying it down. I'd have to put the seat down to just above the toptube, but I could actually ride this one even with my knees/etc the way they are. (I can't hardly get on the Nishiki/etc anymore; too tall). It probably woudln't be easy to pedal, but I have an old Kepler friction drive that wouldn't fit the Nishiki frame without major mods to teh drive / clamp, that would only take a couple of small plates to change the angle and "lenght" of the seatpost clamp to fit with teh seat that close to the frame.
Random internet pic of one that looks like it, till I can get pics of mine:
AFAICT it's a 2003:
https://www.bicyclebluebook.com/SearchListingDetail.aspx?id=91963&make=750&model=65313
AFAICT everything was still original except the brake pads (which are still soft and pliable, not all rock hard or rotted), and possibly the cable housings (which are all Jagwire), and the tires (which I forget what they are) and tubes (which are slime brand). Oh, and the pedals are plastic Trek brand for regular shoes, but from what I can tell it should've come with the type for clip-in shoes.
One interesting part I've never run into before is the Sora shifter/brake levers, where you move them *sideways* to shift gears up, and pull them normaly to brake (with a thumb tab to shift back down). Unfortunatley they seem to be designed such that they can't be used with "flat" handlebars,
I can't lean forward to ride, so have to change the stem, and probably the handlebars (and definitely the saddle; I can't do the sknny saddles anymore). I mgiht be able to flip the bars over so the lower horns stick up instead,and flip the brake lever/shifters over. If not, I'll have to swap the Sora shifter/brakes for separate shifter/brakes. (or maybe the integrated ones off the old fusin test bike)
