Truly reliable ebike?

mvly

10 kW
Joined
May 25, 2011
Messages
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Has anyone actually built a truly reliable ebike? Even though I have more than 5K miles between my 2 ebikes, I notice I had to do a lot of work on them to keep them running. Lately I had spoke breakage, controller problems, phase wire problem, motor problems, hall sensor problems, and battery problems. All of these problem were eventually addressed.

I also notice even stealth bomber people run into problems. Just check out their thread. HPC ebikes for sure ran into problems. As well as people with the bionx ebikes too. I also heard of optibikes with battery issues.

It seems to me like there hasnt been an ebike build where some one builds it and rides it for 50K miles without a single problem. Save for the usual maintenance such as tires and tubes, etc.

OK I am a bit exaggerating on the miles. But 10K miles without a problem should be a good measure of reliability.

Can anyone prove me wrong? Am I the only one with major DiY problem ebike?
 
Hey mate,

Personally I think you are dreaming of a no maintenance "ride and forget" situation which aint gonna exist in the real world.

First up...

DIY (in yer last paragraph)... the nature of the DIY beast is that you can expect that the do it yourselfer is not necessarily someone who is doing whatever as a proffessional, often enough on the first build or three, we are learning as we go, figuring out what works and what doesn't... The "what doesn't work" can be either seen as a valuable lesson on ways to do it better, or as a pain... your choice.

Secondly "Rides for 50k miles without a single problem" even a brand new motorbike rolled out of the show room using the latest and greatest tech and built by the most caring proffessional assemblers ever SHOULD NOT be just ridden without any form of maintenance for 50k miles and tho some will survive such terrible treatment, to not take ones car, motorbike or whatever in for services or performing ones own regular maintenance is pretty silly. If you dont perform regular maintenance, you will trash your vehicle.

Thirdly.. I'd say the majority of serious e-s heads here enjoy pushing their mounts and the tech to the limits, either through non-standard terrain, or through testing the Tech. as such things are gonna break whilst those limits are found.

So all up, even if you had the best BICYCLE that money can buy, assembled by angels in vacuum sealed factories, it still needs to be maintained REGULARLY or things will fail, particularly if you neglected to perform maintenance for 10k miles... Even the Tour De France riders at the top end go through a number of wheels over the course of the tdf and I am willing to bet in some cases by the end of the race they are actually riding a different bike than the one they started with... night be the same frame but there will be many component swapouts along the way.

and that's being done by world class mechanics and riders, throw hobbyist solderers and people that have never put a vehicle together before, like many first time e-bike builders, plus the vaguaries of looking after batteries, and the oft (and nothing wrong with it) gung ho attitude of "get it good enough to ride and then ride the shit out of it" philosophy, 10k miles without maintenance and the occcassional strip down is the stuff of pure unrealistic fantasy.

Edit:
thanks to e-s, post my third build, I actually feel VERY confidant that I can build e-bikes that with the proper care and maintenance will last as long as a good quality bicycle or motorbike. Learning from OTHER peoples mistakes is a boon that is priceless

joe
 
I ride a catrike pocket. A tadpole trike. I have had one problem related to my own lack of experience. I had the batteries mounted too high and too far aft. Caused poor CG. I felt it but still carefully rode an accident waiting to happen. I finally figured out where and how to move the batteries and that is it. There have been minor things. Early on I was stuborn and cheap by using spade connectors. I learned and now use andersons. The spades were problematic. Other than that, just typical bike maintenance. total 4300 miles.
 
I wouldn't say I got it right the first try at all. But once you get the bike built correctly, using connectors with proper crimps, securely clicked into the housings you should have few problems after that. It took awhile to aquire reliable chargers for the battery though. I still see spoke breakage as a mistake in the build. I don't break spokes since i recognized that my local streets require full suspension. I broke lots of spokes on the first meridian trike build, but not on the motor wheel.

But I have about 6000 miles on one controller and battery. The motor was swapped out sooner for various reasons. The battery was my first ping, the kit from E-BikeKit. The current motor was a pretty well used one bought when I put the original one on the racing bike. Other times I had a slow wind motor on it.

No problems at all other than the usual stuff. Oops ran out of power because I didn't fully charge the battery, or a plug with a backed out contact. This is on a bike that recieved normal street use, but not ridden in the wet much in my climate. No problems whatsoever with throttle, controller, or motor halls.

Other stuff I ran hard dirt riding or racing is where I've melted 9c type motors. I don't expect reliability when offering an 800w motor 3000.
 
total problems related to electrics:
-one poorly-manufactured fuse holder
total mechanical problems:
-fist-full of bad design errors in pedal drivetrain caused by my own idiocies
-loose steering cause by lack of preventative maintenance.
-and lots of flats caused mainly by blackberry debris

preventative maintenance is an on-going thing with all bikes, motorized or not.
The components of a pedal bicycle are rarely larger than what is minimally required to support the rider
 
Amped Bikes kit with 48v allcell battery has been very reliable for me. I built my bike last year and have had no issues at all.
 
Most people here are builders and hot-rodders, testing the limits of how much a certain part can take before failure, and then posting the results. Most E-bike owners don't post at all. I would assume that someone who bought a common kit with a 36V battery and a 20A controller (720W?) isn't going to post much.

ebikes.ca (Grin Technologies) has a wonderful reputation for great customer service. They have an industry standard-setting return policy, and they strive to sell kits that work well, so they don't have to hassle with returns. If you buy a kit from them, you will likely have a very reliable and trouble-free kit. If you don't over-heat it by hot rodding, it should last you a VERY long time.
 
I think if you just over-size and simplify everything on your bike you should be quite safe in term of maintenance.

- Get a sensorless direct drive motor, run it at his specified rated power and protect the phase wires from any shock or water.
- Get a simple and big controller such as the Hua Tong
- Protect the wires of your throttles with some glued shrink wrap to prevent that to snap
- Get a Lifepo4 battery protected with aluminium case
- Get big tyres such as the big apple and make sure the spokes are laced correctly.

I think this kind of setup should be quite bullet proof.

Most of the time, my bike issue comes from the wiring, the heat, water or shock/vibration. Protect your bike from all these issues and it should be quite reliable.
 
I bought a crystalyte kit from ebikes.ca. Hasn't Given me any troubles yet after 1000 miles :mrgreen: . The only issues I face is me wanting to tweak things a bit and human error.
 
I think the simple answer to the OP's question is no. Nobody has built an e-bike optimized for utmost reliability.

Some other value always precedes reliability. Here in this forum, it's often performance. For most people, it would be cost. Some others would put looks before reliability, and a few probably value serviceability higher than reliability. In any case, the results are plain to see. E-bikes break down more often even than reciprocating engine motorcycles, which have a much more challenging job to do.

You can run a washing machine every day for years and years (or at least it once was possible do so), without doing anything identifiable as maintenance. When is the last time you performed a tuneup on the garbage disposal in your kitchen sink? Like it or not, an e-bike bears a much closer technical resemblance to a washing machine than it does to a vehicle with an internal combustion engine. A Cushman or Taylor-Dunn electric truck that's driven daily around an industrial plant site often does exhibit reliability more characteristic of a washing machine than of a motor vehicle.

The keys to reliability in this case include constraining the vehicle's performance envelope (to simplify technical requirements), loading electrical and mechanical components at much less than their maximum ratings, and being more obsessed with things like permanent lubrication and high-cycle fatigue characteristics than with ride qualities or glamorous features.

So if you are happy to have an e-bike that weighs 100 pounds, tops out at 12mph, is tedious to repair or service, costs a few thousand dollars, handles like a loaded wheelbarrow, and looks like something a road crew would keep in the back of a utility truck, then you could almost certainly enjoy the sort of faultless reliability we're talking about. But it would still require substantial development to reach that level of reliability, so a lot of other folks would have to be willing to buy one just like it.

The more people bought one, the more resources could be spent on development. A possible result could be that some of the missing ingredients like performance, handling, ease of service, economy, comfort and appearance would be improved without harming reliability. That's how cars became so good, when they are not even obviously a good idea in principle. ("Hey guys, i have an idea! Let's put a couple of couches on a wagon, and make it roll itself down the road by burning a highly flammable and toxic liquid from a tank sitting behind the couches.")

E-bikers have a real advantage to their vehicle construction in that they start with a bicycle-- a machine that has been continuously refined and improved for more than a century and a half. It has already been made almost as perfect as it can be for its cost and other constraints. But optimizing the bicycle for an acceptable level of cost and efficiency has resulted in a certain tolerance of fragility and occasional repairs. Furthermore, electrifying the bicycle expands its duty envelope in terms of weight, speed, and loads on specific parts, with increased failures as a consequence. Then there is the matter of the e-bike's electrical system, which is the opposite of technically mature and worked out for its purpose.

At this stage of the e-bike game, high reliability is something you'll probably have to build in for yourself. Most people want an e-bike so cheap that it can't be made very reliable, and most of the rest want speed and thrills. But in this community of interest, there are many people working on details that add up to a more reliable state of the art. Some are improving wheels, some are working on motors, others on power electronics. They are fiddling with wire connectors and bearings and seals. It all converges on the same goal. This is slower than a crash development program, but it does not rely on having a single business interest sponsoring it. And these folks are sharing their information with each other, with us. So the state of the art will move forward even if there is little commercial support.

At the same time, there is a parallel process happening in China, where there is more commercial support, but less customer demand for performance, reliability, or quality. Their market will benefit from development done here, just as our scene benefits from technical breakthroughs within the Chinese market.

Chalo
 
Ebikes aren't a refined technology. There is no such thing as a perfectly reliable Ebike yet. Buying an ebike now is like buying a car in 1905. Owning one gives you the privilege of being a maverick in the frontier of a new technology.

So yeah, there are going to be problems. there are going to be conditions where the bike can't hold up and needs to be developed. its just to be expected.

But to date, I've never had an ebike problem that left me stranded. But that does take a fair amount of preventative maintenance and forethought.
 
Really good analysis Chalo. Nobody much wants a heavy cushman of ebikes unless they will haul serious cargo. The real problem is even when you try to buy quality brands, the parts inside the charger or controller are still subject to spotty chinese quality controll.

So that's when getting you kit from vendors that practice good support becomes very important. Something goes poof on your Cycleanalyst, no problem.

Reliable batteries remain the biggest issue. Just not practical to send em back to china. Vendors like ping need to construct the packs different, making them more modular so repairs can be done by a novice.
 
As someone who principally travels by bicycle - new to the "e" club - I've had to ride with a contingency plan. My 5000 lb van has enough horsepower to have parts over built and redundant systems. My bike, not so much.

Putting about 300 miles a week commuting on the bike, I've had the below failures & remedies, and arrive at my destination about as reliably as when I drove (having a flat tire delays me 10-15 min; in the car, abhorrent traffic would do the same). Inbound to work, I have another train 20 mins after my "normal" one, so when something goes wrong I'm not too late to work.
Failure 1: cargo rack. Remedy: brought self and bike home via cab. Cost me $35, or about four days parking at the train station. Recouped my loss in a week.
Failure 2: flat tire. Patched on site. home late by 10 mins.
Failure 3: Really bad flat tire w/ no spare tube. Pushed bike to bus stop (all busses here have bike racks). Took $2 bus ride home, arrived 15 min late.

All this without electrics. I recently added electrics to this bike, and given that the e-drive is totally independent of pedal power, technically it's now more reliable than the bike was since a chain snap or loss of freewheel/CVT/crank pedals/etc. from the pedal drive, I can conceptually get home on e-power only.
 
I'm doing my best with my build and buying everything overkill in hopes it will last longer. Only negative is its costing me a lot more money, but will be worth it!
 
Aye Chalo great post sir.

Dogman, re the OPs point, from my perspective, one can build a reliable e-bike, but it has nothing to do with the quality control from china... The sometimes futzy assembly and less than adequate construction (just had a situation with a battery back, tho headway based, that failed cos of this so beginning to experience it myself :) ) CAN bew counter-balanced, I reckon, by the builder pulling apart the components before building the e-bike, and ensuring quality is "up to scratch", and ensure if not bullet-proof, at least within known parameters of reliability when the build is completed. (IE localised QC, and not relying on unknown levels of other peoples QC)

Ultimately I guess I am trying to convince MYSELF here, as a wanna-be purveyor of e-bike builds and components... that quality/reliability is a product of the final assembly and the knowledge/skills of the builder.

I guess I liken the whole reliability issue to my experience as an ex-parachute rigger (rigger being the dude that is trained/qualified to pack and test reserve parachutes for personnel) where failure is not an option that one wants to be half-hearted about. When packing a reserve, I would inspect EVERY thread, every component, including dissassemble and reassemble, repair and testing and applying hundreds of hours of training and skill to give the best possible chance of the reserve working before handing the packaged bedsheet-andbits-of-string (read parachute :mrgreen: ) back to user. I had huge faith (as indeed did those who emplyed my rigging skill) in the reliability of the re-packed reserve working... because I had inspected and prepared the thing to incredibly tight levels of known parameters. and every three months the reserve would be popped and the whole process repeated. I DO beleive if one applies the same (tho perhaps not quite as strict, but on second thoughts, why not?) inspection understanding maintenance and care to an-ebike build, rreliability becomes "built-in".

Gahh I sure can talk a lot of waffle :oops:

Joe
 
Here is the list of all the things gone wrong with my ebikes

ebike 1:
1) Phase wire fused (Probably my fault for going up hill without pedaling assisting)
2) Clutch locked up (Probably due to the bike being a hardtail and the city's crappy infrastructure with crumbling roads)
3) LiFePo4 Battery gives 1/2 capacity the original capacity after 100 cycle. (This is due to buying from conhismotor on ebay. DONT BUY Lithium battery on Ebay from China)
4) 2 58.4V LiFePo4 charger failed. One came with the original ebay battery and from evassemble. No support from either. (Again probably because I buy from ebay and china without support)
5) Sensor gave out (No idea why, probably due heat? But no idea because the motor has been hotter and it still works. Probably crappy sensors)
6) Controller died (Have no idea why it died, one day, it just stop working. Probably too much vibration on the PCB from the hardtail? Definitely NOT because of heat or overpowering it)
7) 3 racks failed. (This is because of the company false advertisement and my fault for trusting them. I think they since changed the specs)

ebike 2:
1) Spoke broke after 2K miles on a Full Suspension ebike. (Again crappy infrastructure)
2) Spoke broke again after repair (Probably due to poor relacing job and crappy infrastructure too)
3) Sensor died at 2.222K miles (No idea why, it just died all of a sudden. This time the motor was cold when it died)
4) 3x Power supply died. 1 loss 1/2 of it FET capacity, the other 2 just died. (No idea why they died but maybe electronics just fail sometime)
5) Torque arm fell out. (This is my fault by buying fake DP420 epoxy on ebay)

Some of the things have gone wrong was my fault, some it because of where I am using it. And some of it is out my control, i.e. the electronics failing for no reason.

But I guess it partly depends on where you live.

Note I did not list getting flats or other bike related problems because it's related to bike itself. If it was not electrified, I would ran into the same problem.
 
The only thing that broke on my bike over the last few hundred miles is a zip tie holding the phase wire connectors to the swingarm. Never touched brakes, or anything else aside from replacing several tires due to treadwear. The only flat I had over that distance is from when the tire was belted badly enough to tear open and I was riding on the tube.

I know 200-300 miles without any issues probably isnt that impressive to most. However, given that the bike is heavily abused and used purely for recreational purposes, I think its quite reliable. I rarely check balance, have not balanced the pack in 50+ charges, and bulk charge at 2kW. The power is never disconnected, I have a separate charge connector. The LVC is set very conservatively high, so I ride it until the motor feels really slow (meaning its wayy to hot), or until it hits LVC. Then I just plug the charger into the wall, plug the single connector into the bike, and come back in 15 minutes. Under 5 seconds to go from dead, to charging, 1 second to go from bike off, to full throttle.

I have some thermostats I plan on tossing in the motor and controller to make it nearly impossible to burn. About the only failure point then would be some sort of mechanical damage to wires.

I should add that this is my 3rd bike. Learning the common failures and how to avoid them are critical. Then it's just all about overbuilding and running things under absolute limits.
 
I consider my ebike to be extremely reliable.

I've had a couple flats, but that would happen on any bike. But one flat every 1500 miles is not an issue at all.

I had my throttle break once. That was the worst equipment failure I've had, had to pedal a few miles home. It might have been due to using a full twist throttle and pushing hard on it while pedaling up a hill. Since then my half twist has been flawless. These are $7 parts, mind you.

My no-name lifepo4 battery from last year has a flawless record, 3400 miles. I am not using it anymore since I went to an a123 50v pack. This new pack has been great, except it has one bad cell that is cutting my AH by 25%. I have no idea how the cell got damaged, but it did. It's from a very reputable builder who thoroughly tests all cells, and I don't think he's had many if any other battery problems from customers (I bought mine 2nd hand BTW).

My older Mac has a cracked side plate(still intact, rideable), which is something the manufacturer improved on with the newer model. I have a newer model and both have been been riding flawlessly, at 1300watts.

Overall there's been a few issues, but by no means would I say my ebike is unreliable. My older chain drives.... that's another story.

BTW, when my car needs something, the repair cost is usually in the hundreds of dollars. Ebikes may not be the MOST reliable option, but if you build them right, keep within recommended power levels, and do regular maintenance, (which is barely anything), then they are completely viable means of transportation.

How reliable are gas prices, traffic, and public transit? :lol:
 
ZOMGVTEK said:
The only thing that broke on my bike over the last few hundred miles is a zip tie holding the phase wire connectors to the swingarm. Never touched brakes, or anything else aside from replacing several tires due to treadwear. The only flat I had over that distance is from when the tire was belted badly enough to tear open and I was riding on the tube.

The fact that you'll ride on a tire with cords showing (and that you'll own another department store bike after having had one before) makes me think that there are probably a few, or a lot, of things about your bike that others would consider to be broken, even if you don't.

Many folks come into my shop with wheels out of true and rubbing on the brakes, one derailleur disconnected and the other badly out of adjustment, loose headset and wheel bearings, etc.-- and all they want is to have their flat tire repaired. We all have different amounts of tolerance for problems with our bikes, but just because someone is tolerant of his bike's problems does not mean his bike doesn't have problems.

Chalo
 
Chalo said:
ZOMGVTEK said:
The only thing that broke on my bike over the last few hundred miles is a zip tie holding the phase wire connectors to the swingarm. Never touched brakes, or anything else aside from replacing several tires due to treadwear. The only flat I had over that distance is from when the tire was belted badly enough to tear open and I was riding on the tube.

The fact that you'll ride on a tire with cords showing (and that you'll own another department store bike after having had one before) makes me think that there are probably a few, or a lot, of things about your bike that others would consider to be broken, even if you don't.

Many folks come into my shop with wheels out of true and rubbing on the brakes, one derailleur disconnected and the other badly out of adjustment, loose headset and wheel bearings, etc.-- and all they want is to have their flat tire repaired. We all have different amounts of tolerance for problems with our bikes, but just because someone is tolerant of his bike's problems does not mean his bike doesn't have problems.

Chalo

I suppose so. Cheap bikes are cheap, and I don't use my bike enough to justify spending thousands on something serious. I consider it to work fine so long as it continues to move under its own power.

My bike is not even close to perfect, but it gets abused and still works basically like how it did when I first put it together. The front brake rubbed since I put it on, the wheels are probably more true now than when new, the headset has always sucked, and the rear tire is belted every few weeks. I don't have a chain or derailers on my bike, so no issues there.

It really all depends on what you expect out of the bike. I don't even have the means to pedal, so a little loss in efficiency is not major or noticed. A little slop in the headset should be expected on a $150 bike, but so far mine is doing great. It probably helps that I use the regen for almost every high speed stop. If my bike burned to the ground, it wouldn't really be a big deal. The most important aspect of an e-bike for me is how reliable they are when abused badly. I use it however I want and it almost never fails. Even when it does, its usually a fairly simple fix and its back up.
 
Most newly build ebike, will need a time for fine tuning and learning. my cyclone kit has so much problems until i have to stop running for a long time, until i found a way how to re alive it again, of course this is definitely most good memory for me ! i thought of giving up completely this cyclone build, it is too hard to keep itself alive, yes it blow many times and the cost , most people will definitely give up immediately. the cyclone external controller of 36v can only last for me is 5000km++ after that it died. Finding the "re alive" the ebike is a rather challenging , my knowledge was limited. from a nearly 80% going to give up this motor to put at store room but i try that again on a ebay controller, wow !.. it works. well, i think this time will certainly last a very long time. i can say , now my cyclone ebike is enough reliable. my current controller for cyclone is huatong 2000watts, it can peak 2200watts. I have also purchase this Greentime controller for a testing on Cyclone motor, how well it can do ? that is my newest to find out ?

effort in learning, repairing , modify them, upgrading will give you a good sense of how much reliable is your ebike can be , so it all depends on individual rider what he wants to do for his ebike. my spokes ever broke, end up i build my own spokes ! till now, they all seem strong and Okay after few thousands km.

kent
 
These bikes and trikes are tending to become more standardized as we we develop out techniques of understanding and repair. My wife and I use our trikes for exercise, but we expect them to be ready when we are. I do a fare bit of checks and maintainance since I have the time and that certainly does help. I believe with a decent infrastructure, (which will be a long time coming) that ebikes are a reliable form of transportation. Plug 'em in at night when you get home, check 'em out once a week or every 2 weeks and come and go to work or the store. If we had a safe infrastructure to ride these devices could be made far more reliable than cars, since they are so much simpler! Seems obvious but we are on the "Bleeding edge" of this form of personal transportation. Tandems for two, of course and Velos for cold weather.
otherDoc
 
I do remember a failure that was my fault. I was adding some bling or making an adjustment that required me to cut and replace zip ties. Little did I know that it is possible to over torque the zip ties to cause electrical problems. When I thought I had it all wired correctly I turned on the system and there was a small puff of smoke rising above my cycle analyst. CA. I contacted Jason and he asked for a picture with the back off. I sent it. A day later he informed me a new Ca was in route and send the old one. Thanks again Jason. Most amazing customer service!
 
Clown Bike, the bike I built 2 years ago and my son rode hard daily for 14 months (50-60miles/wk) had zero maintenance over that period except for adding air to the tires a few times, and one change of the front disc brake pads from too many mountain descents without regen. We upgraded the bike during that time with a more powerful controller and additional batteries. The only maintenance or repair item before he started riding it was to fix a flat due to a screw in the moto tire on the back, but I was able to ride it home under power.

Blue, my 3.5 year old cargo bike's total repairs and maintenance in 3.5 years and more than 15k miles, not including taking it out of service for a week for paint, get rid of duct tape, upgrade the battery pack to A123's, and generally make it prettier, consisted of:
-Changed worn out rear moto and front bike tires once each.
-Changed quite a few front disc brake pad sets before I got regen, due to too much weight and speed.
-Trued the rear moto wheel twice after broken spokes from no washing after beach rides. I stole 3 spokes from ClownBike during the second truing.
-Stopped at the LBS 3 times to true the front wheel for $2 each time and no waiting.
-LFP got it hit by a rogue wave while out on the beach at the changing of the tides. We had to dry the hall connector out to get it back running, but it was charging during the fix so no time lost.
-I broke a throttle once after laying it on its side to check something under the frame and pulled it upright by the throttle, but the throttle worked well enough to get home.
-I blew a number of controllers, but those instances I consider R&D trying to learn the limits of controllers and different mods. Nothing in 2 years controller-wise since it stopped being an R&D platform and became just basic transportation.
-The epoxy holding the freewheel on the left side finally gave, so I took the chain off.
-I had to re-weld one side of the headset after a year and a half when my horrible initial weld developed a crack. I learned to weld and built the bike at the same time.
-Put air in the tires occasionally.
-Check for pack balance about once every 6 weeks, and top off one very slightly weaker parallel group 3 times since October. Otherwise it's just pull in the carport, plug the charge plug and hit the button.
-Got a pinch flat on the front the first week treating it too much like a bicycle and lesson learned. It was 2 blocks from the LBS I was going to, so no big deal.
-Ran out of electricity twice, pedaled a mile home once and LFP towed me with the other bike back to the hotel the other.
-Adjusted the rear drum brake several times via the adjustment nut on the rod.
-Added an idler when my chain stretched out too much.
-Changed the pedal chain once due to rust after too much beach riding and no lubing.
-Cleaned and lubed the new bike chain a few times by spraying on WD40 and then spray on lube.
-Tightened axle nuts 3 times after loosening from regen and hearing the click/clink when hitting regen
-Changed to hydro front brake after cheap mechanical required too much adjusting.
-Cleaned and lubed cheap steal front suspension forks once, because it developed too much stiction.
-Bent pedal back straight and tightened handlebar after going down at 30mph trying to dodge a small dog on a damp street. I was able to ride bike home just not pedal since it was bent. I landed on side of bike while much of the high speed was lost and tumbled once at the end only loosing a little skin on knees and elbows....small animal lesson learned (ie go straight next time and slow down any time small darting animals are visible.) Helmet played no role unless it made me feel safe enough to go too fast for damp asphalt, but lesson learned and the too hard well worn tire replaced for better stickier tire.

It was all just minor stuff other than the controller replacements....not a single motor problem nor battery problem with any of the DIY battery packs on either bike.

You can absolutely build a zero repair and near zero maintenance ebike if you want. If I can do it, anyone can. Get a hubbie with a rim not spokes, since spokes will always be maintenance items. Oversize the motor, controller, and battery, and run them conservatively well within their spec ranges, not at the limits. Understand the performance limits of your ebike, especially what is the minimum safe speed going up hills to keep controller and motor heat well with reason. Use regen to handle the bulk of your braking force. It gives you a bit more range, all but eliminates brake maintenance, and improves safety because mechanical brakes are always fresh, cool, and ready for emergency stops. Use disc brakes and if going cheap go hydraulic, since cheap mechanical disc brakes require almost as much fiddling as rim brakes. Build it like a moped, not a bicycle if you really want low maintenance, because bicycles require maintenance. Don't follow the latest fad in ebike motors. New ones seem to have a high percentage of issues and breakdowns. Get a proven motor, and only use an ebike motor if you want 25mph or less, but make it a big ebike hubbie. For greater speed get a scooter hubbie proven through years of service pushing far heavier vehicles than the bike you build. Build strong and don't worry much about weight if the ebike is for primarily transportation as opposed to an exercise and/or play machine. That is unless you actually have to pick up and carry your bike on a regular basis. 10-20lbs has negligible effect on overall performance. If you want convenience and low maintenance then build it with that in mind, and the simpler the better.

John
 
Greetings, have you ever seen a modded Cushman or Taylor-Dunn electric truck?





NEVER TOO LATE



Chalo said:
I think the simple answer to the OP's question is no. Nobody has built an e-bike optimized for utmost reliability.

Some other value always precedes reliability. Here in this forum, it's often performance. For most people, it would be cost. Some others would put looks before reliability, and a few probably value serviceability higher than reliability. In any case, the results are plain to see. E-bikes break down more often even than reciprocating engine motorcycles, which have a much more challenging job to do.

You can run a washing machine every day for years and years (or at least it once was possible do so), without doing anything identifiable as maintenance. When is the last time you performed a tuneup on the garbage disposal in your kitchen sink? Like it or not, an e-bike bears a much closer technical resemblance to a washing machine than it does to a vehicle with an internal combustion engine. A Cushman or Taylor-Dunn electric truck that's driven daily around an industrial plant site often does exhibit reliability more characteristic of a washing machine than of a motor vehicle.

The keys to reliability in this case include constraining the vehicle's performance envelope (to simplify technical requirements), loading electrical and mechanical components at much less than their maximum ratings, and being more obsessed with things like permanent lubrication and high-cycle fatigue characteristics than with ride qualities or glamorous features.

So if you are happy to have an e-bike that weighs 100 pounds, tops out at 12mph, is tedious to repair or service, costs a few thousand dollars, handles like a loaded wheelbarrow, and looks like something a road crew would keep in the back of a utility truck, then you could almost certainly enjoy the sort of faultless reliability we're talking about. But it would still require substantial development to reach that level of reliability, so a lot of other folks would have to be willing to buy one just like it.

The more people bought one, the more resources could be spent on development. A possible result could be that some of the missing ingredients like performance, handling, ease of service, economy, comfort and appearance would be improved without harming reliability. That's how cars became so good, when they are not even obviously a good idea in principle. ("Hey guys, i have an idea! Let's put a couple of couches on a wagon, and make it roll itself down the road by burning a highly flammable and toxic liquid from a tank sitting behind the couches.")

E-bikers have a real advantage to their vehicle construction in that they start with a bicycle-- a machine that has been continuously refined and improved for more than a century and a half. It has already been made almost as perfect as it can be for its cost and other constraints. But optimizing the bicycle for an acceptable level of cost and efficiency has resulted in a certain tolerance of fragility and occasional repairs. Furthermore, electrifying the bicycle expands its duty envelope in terms of weight, speed, and loads on specific parts, with increased failures as a consequence. Then there is the matter of the e-bike's electrical system, which is the opposite of technically mature and worked out for its purpose.

At this stage of the e-bike game, high reliability is something you'll probably have to build in for yourself. Most people want an e-bike so cheap that it can't be made very reliable, and most of the rest want speed and thrills. But in this community of interest, there are many people working on details that add up to a more reliable state of the art. Some are improving wheels, some are working on motors, others on power electronics. They are fiddling with wire connectors and bearings and seals. It all converges on the same goal. This is slower than a crash development program, but it does not rely on having a single business interest sponsoring it. And these folks are sharing their information with each other, with us. So the state of the art will move forward even if there is little commercial support.

At the same time, there is a parallel process happening in China, where there is more commercial support, but less customer demand for performance, reliability, or quality. Their market will benefit from development done here, just as our scene benefits from technical breakthroughs within the Chinese market.

Chalo
 
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