Turning pedal assist into "constant on."

It's not just metal pieces., It's magnets, alternating polarity in a pattern. Some discs won't work with some controllers, or need to be mounted reversed to the arrows on the disc, and you can't just hotwire it together as it wants the pulse pattern. Sometimes there's a plug coming out of the controller for an optional throttle... That's an easier place to get a constant on switch going. I just finally hooked up my pas after about two years...I hated it and unplugged it again after one ride, for exactly the reasons you mentioned..I hate it cutting out in deep turns.

PSX_20200210_213802.jpg
 
I like to just jam my grip against the throttle when I want it to stay on... So great on cold mornings riding with your hands in your pockets 👍

If you tap where it's says KVID0020 it will take it to YouTube instead of the weird viewer here... It links to a couple of other vids too... Kvid0021 has a good 36mph no hands downhill burst.


[youtube]nD3s0gEmiLs [/youtube]
 
if it has an unused pad marked "sp" or "spd" then that is probably for a throttle signal wire. as that is a common abbreviation used on controllers that have a throttle.

if you have a 5k-10kohm potentiometer laying around, you can wire it so one end of the pot goes to any 5v pad on teh board, the other end goes to any ground or gnd pad, and the middle goes to the sp pad. turn the pot all teh way in the direction of the ground connection, and then turn on the bike (with the bike upside down so the wheel is off ground). slowly turn the pot the other direction, and if it has a working throttle input the wheel may begin spinning.

(it may require that the pedals are also spinning to make the throttle work; some do, some don't; some actually disable the throttle if pedals are spinning)

if there is no sp pad, then you could only guess which, if any, could accept a throttle input.
 
marcus25 said:
Actually there is something more on it.
"Speed set 1-4 2vdual"
This is the throttle voltage range. A pic of that three wire connector would help to identify whether it's the throttle.
 
marcus25 said:
Opened up box on the bike and there is an aluminium box with dozens of wires and plugs. loos like an ordinary controller.
Has one free socket with 3 wires.
The model number is BN 1054-101-36 serial? is 2019072300022.
Tried to google it but couldn't find any reference.

Any ideas w to bypass the sensor and use a throttle?
Thanks

I bought a similar bike with the same controller and connected a throttle to it a couple of weeks ago.

You can easily connect it to the free socket with 3 wires, with the below:
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Electric-Bike-Throttle-Shifter-Thumb-Throttle-Grip-Accelerator-Accessor-IO/283696425901?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
 
d8veh said:
I discovered that some controllers do indeed use the PAS as a switch. These controllers are looking for the pulses from the pedal sensor. They ignore the first few and then for each one they sense, they give a fixed running time (1 to 2 secs) of the motor, which is why the motor runs on for a bit after you stop pedalling.

Rather than mess about with magnetism, you can disconnect the pedal sensor at the controller and put a switch between the signal wire (not black or red) and the ground (normally black). You cannot adjust the power from maximum unless you have an LED or LCD control panel.

Hiya,
Would this work if I needed to bypass the lcd King Meter KM529 display? I am getting error code 30 and I'm pretty sure that the display is the problem. I am having trouble being able to reprogram the PAS level to any other level than 0. I have a throttle coming in the mail but I want to ride today. :wink: Any thoughts?
 
Sorry, I didn't see that, as I haven't logged on for a while due to health issues. I hope you have it sorted by now, but to answer your question. If you bypass the Kingmeter display panel by bridging the red and blue wires, you normally get level 1 PAS and normal throttle operation. You might need to bridge the two comms wires together too.
 
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