uggh! another noob needs help :-)

[TJImagineer]

John, it sounds as I have frustrated you. My intention was not to waste your time I have read and re-read your advise and followed it to the best of my limited understanding on BLDC motor tuning. I tried everything you said and ran out of possible hall/phase wire combinations. So I moved on to the 36 possible combinations exercise. Regardless the time you spent has helped me start to understand the technology and how it should work, which to me is invaluable. I don't feel as though I didn't listen to your advice, but I may have not followed it as you suggested (due to a lack of experience with these). I hope it helps that I did not kill any trees, the picture I posted was a screen print of the which I edited with the computer to add letters numbers and X's for the result of each change.

Low no-load current means at WOT (Wide Open Throttle). If the reverse works under load, then you are at the same position as before, swap just 2 of one set and find the right forward combo of the 5 remaining possibilities of the other set. Otherwise you have another problem.

I was not aware of this and was only using minimal throttle at each test, that is my fault I should use "friction" rather than load when I place my foot under the tire to see if the motor stalls or continues turning with "Friction".

The only other power connection is the XT60 leads off the controller, and the fuse link XT60 leads beyond those I have used two different batteries with their own XT60 connectors. In all of my tests my voltage has never sagged more than 1.25v during the WOT test with no friction (the wheel was in the air) on a 48v controller wouldn't the LVC be around 42v? if there is a bad power connection I think it may be inside the controller.

I hope to be able to help someone increase their knowledge someday as you have done for me, TJ

 

[TJImagineer]

good news update: I placed my hall sensors and phase wires back in the normal color coded combinations and decided I would unplug my throttle cable from the controller. I moved the crank with the PAS still connected and the motor spun up nice I placed my foot under the tire and the motor continued turning. so I took the bike for a cruise like that and the PAS worked correctly and assisted with motor as designed. I'm pretty sure the motor and phase and halls are connected correctly and I was chasing another problem in the wrong way. now I need to figure out if the wiring on the throttle is correct. it has 2 plugs one for a power switch and one for the +, ground and data wires. plus there is a grey wire tied into the data wire from the throttle I don't know what its function is. Or why the wheel pulses only when the throttle is connected. or it pulses with the throttle connected when using the PAS without turning the throttle. more testing to do. I will post the results after.

 

[Lurkin]

Well done. Your tenacity is impressive, no doubt the EV grin on the first ride justified all the effort!