What kind of ebike is this?

I have seen them posted by members in Canada, I seem to remember they were branded "Strong"? I like them.

http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=34672

file.php
 
OK Cool thanks spinningmagnets.
Looks like its steel swingarm, Brushed 36v 500w peak. 175mm dropouts, discs.

Geared motor


I was a little taken back when I saw CrappyTire sold it. But its steel, probably overvolt it to 48V.
Looks like I got some reading and searching to do.

Well even if the parts are scrap, I can swap everything over from my MXUS Stumpjumper build.
 
http://www.meetup.com/Electric-Bicycles/messages/boards/thread/16188182#62426712
(Posted December, 2011)
Strong Canada imported these bikes into Canada back around 2006-2007, and they were sold through Canadian Tire... Strong Canada seems gone now, but the Internet Wayback Machine has some of their web pages archived from 2007:
http://web.archive.org/web/20070917013853/http://www.strongcanada.ca/index-en.html

Damei Strong Bicycle (Tianjin) Co., Ltd. still offers them for sale via Alibaba:
http://strongbicycle.en.alibaba.com/­

Here is a forum thread where an ebiker in Barrie has bought one of these old bikes and is updating the bike with a modern hub motor and battery etc:
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=34672&start=0­

The thread illustrates some of the possibilities for these bikes if an ebiker wants to do some DIY work starting with one of these cheap 2nd-hand Strong bikes from Craigslist etc...

Tks
10Ck
Click to expand...

Hehe... "Puncture-proof tires"

Look suspiciously like maybe the eZee Bike Forte Electric Bicycle sold today:
http://www.scooterunderground.ca/products/electric_bikes/eZeeBike_Forte.htm
 
Here's a member thread about the Strong - http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=46993&hilit=brentis
 
A Canadian Strong bike, still sold in France as ISD Futuro/ Explorer/ Excelsior.
Since you are Canadian, you can find one locally at pretty low price.
It looks good on picture, but it is not very "strong" bike. The motor is very weak, the controller has 45v and 17A max. The whole bike is very heavy like 88lb with SLA batteries.It is also not comfortable to peddle because the wide battery holder.
 
Hillhater said:
LockH said:
Look suspiciously like maybe the eZee Bike Forte Electric Bicycle sold today:
http://www.scooterunderground.ca/products/electric_bikes/eZeeBike_Forte.htm
Click to expand...
No way Lockie.... That's a very different bike, . Look at the battery location.

But that "strong" bike is a generic Chinese Ebike that crops up under various brand names around the world.
They certainly are down here in Oz.
Click to expand...

Oooops. (One nice thing about having "bad" eyes, ya get to see lots of beautiful ppl... from a distance.)
 
Many have converted them Strong ebikes from SLA and brushed to Li and brushless, some with powerful setup. Yet they are very heavy and the welding is crap on some of them. Best to do with them is a low power long range ebike, for despite their name they are not so strong frame to ride at high speed, but their design make it easy to carry a lot of batteries.
 
MadRhino you make a good point about making it a low power long range for the "Strong GTS" ebike.
If I were to make it a high powered unit, I would just reinforce all the joints. Which is a long way down the road if I do it that way.
I took a magnet to the frame and found that the entire bicycle is steel, not just the rear swing arm.

I find it quite amazing that this bicycle changes gears quite well with its gripshift and the brakes work quite well too.
The seatpost is 26mm which is such an odd diameter. I could barely find any 26.8mm seatposts.

Here the bike is where it belongs, at my house.


Its hard to say what I want to do with the bike. I will try to take apart the lead acid battery container to get at the controller.

Will I be able to use HobbyKings Turnigy with that stock controller, given the proper voltage of course?
How far above stock should I over volt it, an extra 12V? If the controller can take it.
If that controller is toast, fried or whatever then what am I looking for as a replacement? Just your basic scooter parts controller?
 
I bought it for $200, I just bypassed the key now, it was pretty easy by looking at the connection side of the tumbler.
I took some lock pliers and twisted the plastic iginition, and shoved a flathead into the side and twisted it off.
The motor turns smooth, tons of voltage drop from running wheel in air.

The lead acid batteries are hovering around 42V, so I am hooking up six 4S lipos to gain 10Ah and 44.4V (14.8Vx3=44.4V). 2 batteries in parallel then series 3 packs.
Hopefully I can ride to the beer store, I mean convience store. :oops:

Actually I just thought of something, is the controller is in the battery case, or is it in the hub? I keep coming back to this question. I think its that box just above the Bottom Bracket and Crank.

Right now the lead acids are locked in the frame, need the key to get it out. Key is being mailed to me for convience on both parties.

I was planning to just hook up the lipos, but then realized the lead acids are still apart of the circuitry. So if the controller is in the battery box, I need to hook up LiPos in PARALLEL with lead acids, IF that can be done. Otherwise if the controller is in the Hub. If I had the key, I could take the lead acids out and use the 2 power poles that recieve the lead acids for my LiPo's.

I dont really want to fry this thing, want to keep it stock for now with the help of my lipos.

Right now I am fast charging in parallel 6 LiPos. I really want to ride this thing.
 
Its a 250W Controller, bike has the torque sensor.
Nice ride though for my first cruise ever on an ebike. Not bad for 330lb dude on a heavy bike, with added Lipos to the lead acids.
 
Nice thing too its got the ebrakes on both levers, plus if I want to scare people I got a very loud buzzer horn.
The motor itself has quite a noise level to it, but I have nothing to compare it too, under load.

OK Thanks for the correction guys on Torque vs Pedal Sensor. I did find though for some reason if I did pedal harder there would be more power added. I dislike the delay in the pedal sensor, along with the delay in the ebrake cutoff.

Here is what I did. I tapped my lipos into the controller side of the connector, lots of room on the wire to cut away the insulation.
I charged my Lipos up to 48V and 10Ah, I first "Fast Charged" it at 1C or 5A, which go it up to 15.89V or 3.975V per cell then my Imax B8+ charger stopped as normal. I switched to "Charge" and got it up to 16V before I couldnt stand it any longer and stopped the charge to hook it up. I know from past expiriences playing around with this charger is it charges to the 4.2V level. That is good to know.

View attachment 3

View attachment 2
I would recommend this light for sure......
View attachment 1


I only used up about 4V, which right now the battery cells are at storage levels. I did about 10 loops around 8 houses, with a slight grade. I then went down the main road, downhill for about 1 to 1.5km. Its a slight grade all the way. It did short minimal hills with assist. Medium slope very short hill (35'), got 3/4 of the way but I gunned it to the hill.

I would like to know if that is a stock 250W controller. It just seems like not enough power, and for this bike, for me, 500W would be ideal.

How can I tell what the motor can take. I have been touching the batteries, controller and motor, only the controller got somewhat hot.
If I remember from previous discussions in other threads. Motors like the YesComUsa motors, are all the same motor but with different controllers, and perhaps different windings in the motor. So I am thinking I should look around for a Brushed 500W controller 31-45V range, 25A. This one stock says 18A.
http://www.electricscooterparts.com/hookup/SPD-48500.htm
 
That's handy they have all that info right on the controller. I'd guess it's stock.
You might be able to find a larger capacity brushed controller, but the hub is probably somewhat matched, so the power increase wouldn't be much before there are problems.
Since I guess your rig is about 400lbs, I'd go for mo' power.

Plus, there's a reason brushless is so popular (I don't know exactly what it is lol, but my thinking is broader power output and efficiency)
Why not just grab the amazon 1000 or 1500 watt kit? It'll update everything but the battery, x4 the power output, and cost <250$.

Btw, that seems like a great price for the bike,
and 'CONGRATS!' on your first ebike experience!
 
1. The motor is geared motor, so it is normal to have more noise than DD motor.
2. Get rid off the lead acid batteries, it will save you 30lb. But you will need to get your key first.
3. Disconnect peddle sensor to the controller. Your thumb throttle will not work unless you stop peddling because the controller will take the peddle sensor signal first. Now you have more control the max power to the motor.
4. Get another controller will certainly help 48v x25a=1200w. This motor can handle 1200w no problem.

I believe once you build your Mxus motor ebike you will never look back this bike any more.
 
I was able to put into the battery case, 12 4S (14.8V, 5Ah)) lipo batterys (however with the cabling its a very tight squeeze), I can use the case exactly like stock.
I now have to figure out a way to charge all 12 batteries without taking the case apart.

The old batteries turns out were 36V and 12Ah leads, not 48V that I assumed. They are tossed.

I now have 20Ah and 48V lipo battery hookup, and I will have an extra 10Ah pack that I can duct tape to the rear rack for extended trips.
I just went for a cruise and used up about 0.2V (Charged to 4.15V)

View attachment 1

Its very cool and the ebike phenomenon has bitten me big time.
I get eyeballed a lot from the noise of the motor. Common sense prevails!

I am pretty much done with this setup. I took the silly reflective stickers off the battery case. I then took brake cleaner to get all the glue off.
Thinking about painting it all black so the squareness of the battery case and the visual of the motor is blended and eased. Then I will put on some rear panneir bags to hide the motor hub.

Here are some pics of my battery mod. Pretty simple. Phillips screw driver to take out 4 screws, duct tape, and I reused the foam to reduce battery rattle.

View attachment 2



Does anyone here have a good ebay seller they buy controllers off of?
If my stock controller says brushes, I assume that means brushed, can I go brushless?

I am looking at these $40 controllers as an upgrade. 24V-60V range 1000W.
I am thinking they are all the same. Different sellers, but coming out of same area.
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/24-60V-500-1...ter-/171271656338?hash=item27e0961392&vxp=mtr
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/24V-36V-500W...ter-/280912828366?hash=item4167b597ce&vxp=mtr
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/24-60V-500-1..._DefaultDomain_15&hash=item3a980ff751&vxp=mtr
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/24-60V-motor...86?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item27e1b80f4e
 
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