What to do with 2 ebrake shutoffs for 1 controller plug

RTLSHIP

10 kW
Joined
Jul 24, 2008
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521
Hello, I was wondering what ebikers do with their second ebrake given that most controllers have 1 plug in spot. Do folks typically solder them into one plug or do they just go with 1 unit? I'm finally interested in trying them out for safety purposes. I had one incident where throttle could not limit wet controller following rainstorm.
 
Normally-open switched levers can be wired in parallel, and either one will close the circuit.

If you're riding a Free Spirit bicycle-shaped object, you should try harder and respect yourself more. If you carry this general principle through to your kit installation methods, maybe it wouldn't even fail in the rain.
 
Chalo said:
Normally-open switched levers can be wired in parallel, and either one will close the circuit.

If you're riding a Free Spirit bicycle-shaped object, you should try harder and respect yourself more. If you carry this general principle through to your kit installation methods, maybe it wouldn't even fail in the rain.
I'm using an old free spirit because the forks limit spin outs. And this rain related problem happened with my very good Lyen controller on another bike. I have used much better bikes but they couldn't hold the hub axle nicely even w/ torque arm.
The free spirit was given to me and seems to work fine.
 
Chalo said:
If you're riding a Free Spirit bicycle-shaped object, .....

Now you went and made me look it up:
Various manufacturers, such as Puch, Huffy, Murray and several Asian manufacturers (i.e. Kung Hsue She) made the bikes for Sears.
 
LewTwo said:
Chalo said:
If you're riding a Free Spirit bicycle-shaped object, .....

Now you went and made me look it up:
Various manufacturers, such as Puch, Huffy, Murray and several Asian manufacturers (i.e. Kung Hsue She) made the bikes for Sears. You are correct. It is identical to Huffy except that it was sold to Sears as Free Spirit.
It is overweight at 38 lbs, but it works. I tired of buying and reselling bikes that had front fork spin out issues. I tried torque arm and C Washers. 2 Raleighs, a nice Mongoose etc.
A good thing about a Huffy / Free Spirit is that the steel fork drop out is about 9 mm and you have to file a bit to get the 10 mm axle to fit. It works w/ torque arm. The other alternative is to put these forks onto a better bike.
 
RTLSHIP said:
...had front fork spin out issues. I tried torque arm and C Washers.
Just out of curiosity, what failed? Did the tq. arm break? Did the fork snap?. Thinking if the tq. arm fit the axle snugly, and attached firmly to the fork, then axle spinout wouldn't be possible unless something broke?

Curious because I have a front dd hub that I am planning to use next.
 
99t4 said:
RTLSHIP said:
...had front fork spin out issues. I tried torque arm and C Washers.
Just out of curiosity, what failed? Did the tq. arm break? Did the fork snap?. Thinking if the tq. arm fit the axle snugly, and attached firmly to the fork, then axle spinout wouldn't be possible unless something broke?

Curious because I have a front dd hub that I am planning to use next.
The forks and torque arm could not hold the axle in place. These parts didn't "break." I even tried adding some metal strap around the torque arm hole to make it a tighter fit and it still spun out. Now the spin outs leave the wire wrapped around the axle. So the only damage was to axle threads (some stripping) and wiring. I did install it correctly and fasten w/ hose clamp.
Part of the problem could be that the ebike universal torque arm is 10 mm on the square part but the round area is about 14 mm. My axle is about 10 & 12 mm. So the axle can still jump up and out of place. Your best bet is to find steel forks with 9.5 mm or 3/8 drop outs that allow you to file or debur a little if needed. And then add the torque arm. There are other torque arms on the market, but it all starts with decent forks. If I could do it different, I would have tried the 10 x 12 mm quality type. I had a cheaper one that became mangled. Once the axle gets stripped a bit, it loses the 10 mm width. Then you have a bigger problem.
a torque arm is like a supplement that disperses some torque. It is never a substitute for poor fitting dropouts. lesson learned.
 
Some forks have eyelets for mounting fenders. I like to use those for torque arms when I can.
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Of course being as I am anal retentive I put a torque arm on both the left and right side of the forks.
 
LewTwo said:
Some forks have eyelets for mounting fenders. I like to use those for torque arms when I can.
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Of course being as I am anal retentive I put a torque arm on both the left and right side of the forks.
Do you think your axle would spin out with poor matching forks?
I have 2 torque arms and was going to try that. The real probelm is once you get a few spin outs the axle is smeared and torque doesn't fit well. So torque can only help on other side.
Some of my forks had eyelets which make for simple installation but that doesn't make a functional difference.
 
RTLSHIP said:
Do you think your axle would spin out with poor matching forks?
As I would never try that I can not say .... one way on another the two would match. In the case above I had to use a manual milling machine (a.k.a. hand file and elbow grease) on the bottom end of the forks.

I am not going to temp fate by saying that it could not happen but in three plus years since I built that bike that axle has not moved. But I am NOT an aggressive rider and that motor/controller is only rated at 18 Amps. Now I have to go find a block of wood (other than my head).
 
Folks, I did get 2 ebrakes but am going with just one. It plugs right in, so no work was needed. As per Chalo, I would have run the 2 ebrake wirings parallel as I have 1 plug in spot. Or I can use the other ebrake on a second bike/controller.
 
LewTwo said:
RTLSHIP said:
Do you think your axle would spin out with poor matching forks?
As I would never try that I can not say .... one way on another the two would match. In the case above I had to use a manual milling machine (a.k.a. hand file and elbow grease) on the bottom end of the forks.

I am not going to temp fate by saying that it could not happen but in three plus years since I built that bike that axle has not moved. But I am NOT an aggressive rider and that motor/controller is only rated at 18 Amps. Now I have to go find a block of wood (other than my head).
The spin outs are more likely with hard sudden acceleration. The only good positive I can say is that I always used steel forks, so there was no serious danger of cracked forks.
 
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