yescomusa.com (GM) 48V 1000W rear motor kit

[wesnewell]

I've used several different ones. All 2.125 except for the last one, a Panaracer 2.30. Used a couple of different tubes too. Inline is one. Don't recall the other brands. I like the Panaracer. Looks to be good quality. Might try CST next.

 

[efreak]

You also need to add your own $2 rim tape .

is it does not come with and it punctured the inner tube from inside after the first couple of rides

the motor that looks similar to magic pie but different ( it has silver rings instead of the star look) is made by conhis motor

China

 

[wesnewell]

Why do you think the motor is made by conhismotor? The part number on the 3 I've bought are all Goldenmotor part numbers, and have the same specs as the GM motors. I think conhis either uses GM motors, or may have a deal to build them.

 

[smorse1]

@wesnewell
can you elaborate on your battery setup?
do you use 2 of those batts paralell and then 2 in series?
what do you do for a charger? the one that came with it?

 

[wesnewell]

With the original controller I was running 14s1p 5ah lipo. Early in the year when it was still cool, I sometimes charged with the SLA charger that came with the kit, but had to keep a close eye on it so as not to overcharge the lipo. When summer arrived, I started bringing the battery pack in and charging with the Hyperion 1420I charger I have. Since moving to a new controller and 24s1p 5ah lipo, I always charge with the lipo charger. I just ordered 6 6s lipos and will probably configure them most of the time as 18s2p and will parallel charge them all at once with the 1420I.

 

[kmxtornado]

Okay, moving back to the specific kit purchased by the OP, I have a newbie question.

What's the difference btw the watts? Higher means faster....which means uses the battery more quickly? Or does it mean the range is better? Or does it mean the torque is better? Sorry, I'm researching as much as I can but I gotta start somewhere.

I'm totally new and considering an ebay kit too since there's such a craze about it and I'm not all that hardcore about e-biking...yet at least. If you could recommend something to me, that'd be awesome. I started a thread with all my specs (e.g. my weight, expected range, etc....): http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=32668&p=474570#p474570 Please comment there if you have a chance or answer my quick question here since it's somewhat related to the Yescomusa kit.

I'm on their website now...and it's pretty cool that the kit really does come fully loaded. It even comes with a headlight and bungies to hold the battery pack. But it looks like the battery has to be purchased separately as the OP already mentioned.

 

[smorse1]

I chose the 1000 watt based on this thread.
I have 23 pounds of SLA 9ah and it has really exceeded my expectations.
I can go 25 mph on level paved road.
Its on a crappy walmart mongoose, so i have a wish list, of course.
I'll run the SLA until they die, but i am certainly in the market for new batteries.
So:
New batteries/charger
Upgraded controller
New bike with disc brakes
Cycle analyst

 

[smorse1]

I gotta say - the customer support from Yescom is pretty good - the charger burnt up on me after about 3 uses and they sent another out, no questions asked and with super fast shipping.

 

[seascan]

Hi. I have a yescomusa 48V rear motor kit.

Is it normal for the battery level LEDs to remain lit no matter the position of the red button? If so, is there a way to install an on/off switch so the connections is completely disconnected?

Thanks!

 

[wesnewell]

Yes, it's normal. Two different functions. If you don't like the lights, you can simply unplug the 2 wire connector to the controller or put a switch on one of the wires.. It serves no other purpose.
You should be unplugging your battery from the controller when not in use.

 

[seascan]

Thanks wesnewell. I will install a switch.

 

[seascan]

By the way, what does the red switch do?

 

[wesnewell]

In disables the motor/controller. Out is normal operation. A kill switch if you want to call it that.

 

[veloman]

I picked up the 48v 500w kit. It did 32mph on 63v loaded last night. I am using an EB309 infineon at the moment (4110 fets). It is slightly louder than a 9c, but it's not a bad noise, not like a geared motor.

I like the speed of the winding, sort of middle of the road. Decent torque and decent top end.

Other than missing a rim strip, I am quite impressed at this kit for the price. The rear rack is a hefty steel folding type. Easily 3-4lbs. The motor phase wires at 18awg are small! Maybe I'll upgrade them in the future if I run more than 30amps on this.

 

[wesnewell]

That's a lot faster than I got my 500W kit to on 14s. It topped out at ~ 25mph iirc carrying my 275 lbs on a mountain bike. Acceleration was a lot better when I upped the amps to ~45A max.

 

[RLD70]

Ill post this here along with two other places as to finding out what to do about this:

Well the motor is here and I dont think the bike frame is well suited for this motor. The axle barely fits into the rear dropouts and trying to stretch the back frame isnt really all that easy either, lol. After a few trials with the batteries I believe I finally got the pos/neg the correct way. Now there is a problem, the wheel will turn when cranking and all but when I try to use the throttle the wheel wont move and when it does move just a tiny bit, it appears to be trying to go in reverse. Any suggestions?

 

[chisixer6]

You might be trying to put on a road bike frame 130mm width as oppose to mtb 135mm. With the motor just inching along or reverse, sounds like you might need to play with the 5 halls wire(really 3 since you dont need to mess with red and black wire, just the yellow, blue geen), you might need to switch the 3 thicker phase wire around too. there is an excel spreadsheet around here somewhere, that will make it easier.

 

[RLD70]

You might be trying to put on a road bike frame 130mm width as oppose to mtb 135mm. With the motor just inching along or reverse, sounds like you might need to play with the 5 halls wire(really 3 since you dont need to mess with red and black wire, just the yellow, blue geen), you might need to switch the 3 thicker phase wire around too. there is an excel spreadsheet around here somewhere, that will make it easier.

Actually its not necessary, I found the problem and corrected it. There were 2 wires that werent in their respective connectors but they are now and the bike has a top speed of 29.5 so far, lol. Thanks for your help though.

 

[RLD70]

In disables the motor/controller. Out is normal operation. A kill switch if you want to call it that.

I actually believe that it is for the PAS system that the controller seems to be wired for. The sensor is even listed in the manual.