Recent content by Arkz

Not that either. The connections are good and solid and there is no slipper clutch. See what I mean how weird it is? I tried connecting the hall sensor but it made no difference. Both controllers support higher speed motors as well as slow hub drives. It just seems like such a weird problem to...

Tested with an LFP pack that's at about 39V. Barely drops lower than that due to needing hardly any load to cut out. Also tested with a Lipo pack at about 37V, again drop is tiny. Tested with the controller I bought for it and another similar 36V controller. The fact that it does it on both is...

There is no bms.

Never had this with any motor before. Happens everytime you gun the throttle. Actually being on the bike it's useless. Being very gentle with the throttle it starts to drive but then still does it. Yet with no load it runs perfectly smooth, motor turns smooth. I've checked the pinion and spur...

Agreed, I think they've just bundled a random screen from a different model.

Upon even further digging I've found PDF docs in German that say the grey and black are a speed sensor, and the red yellow black are for a lighting assembly. Seems odd that none are for brake cut off switches. extra wires going to screen are still a mystery too. I contacted the seller who said...

Yeah I've looked all over the place. I found someone saying the grey and black in a speed sensor, I'm guessing for the speed governor to limit you correctly. Dunno what the others are yet. Seller said 36v, and the screen does say 36v on the back. I'm still digging. I don't really want to end up...

Man those batteries are gonna coooooook. HK's 30c turnigy's and 40c Zippy's got hot drawing about 8c constant. With them rated at 10c, and HK's track record, they'll probably run hot at 3c. Good luck though, looking real nice so far.

Panasonic NUA type. Person sold me it saying it works but wires need fixing. Screen connector had some lose wires, found a pic to make sure which holes they came out of, reconnected them all except the blue from the screen which goes to an empty slot on the connector, and all the remaining...

Unfortunately the only shops I can find that deal with these are 80+ miles away. Found a shop selling the 35t chainring for £15 which isn't as bad as I'd expected. But put off by them wanting £5 shipping for just that. Most other places are free or maybe £2.

Yeah I was thinking of sacrificing an old chainring to do that, much better than trying to replicate the pattern each time.

Oh poo. Yeah it looks like that, which probably means they'll sell a £5 chainring for £40. Might try using the dremel to carve teeth into one myself. Thanks for identifying it so quickly dude.

The BMX sprocket is just a normal chainring for a 1 piece crankset. For the motor obviously normal crank arms will slot onto the square pegs, but the sprocket/chainring fitting is different to most of my bikes old fashioned axle with bearing cups at either side, that use a set where the right...

Free running speed should always be very low except for the initial spin up. Friction from belt drive will add a bit more than a hub motor spinning but still nothing compared to proper load moving the bike and you. But without knowing how powerful the motor is it's all just guess work really...

Anyone know the correct name for the type of sprocket that slots onto this? I'm hoping there's a slot on adaptor I can get to use my old BMX sprocket on it as the gearing is ideal already.