Recent content by Propofolboy

Thanks for all replies. I am suspicious that this is a 48V lead acid battery charger that was re-purposed for lithium ion, but not really spec'ed for the task.

So I have a 13s4p 48V lithium ion battery with MH1 cells. The battery charger supplied with it has specs of 59V 1.8A output. My battery reads 53.7 V at full charge. The charger when tested has output of 56.5 V. Something doesnt seem right? Thoughts? Thanks.

Awesome that's good to know. Hopefully I have now limited the damage to these forks and they will be ok. Did you do the welding yourself?

Awesome thanks! I think if I would have retightened the axel nuts instead of taking it all down I would have further spread and deformed it, and then it would have loosened again, and eventually it would be beyond saving. I just hope I haven't gotten to that point yet!

Hi everyone. I'm pretty new to this and a bit disappointed this morning. I installed a 1000W hubmotor on my front steel fork of my fatbike a couple weeks ago, and thought I'd done a good job. The spacing was tight, so I wasn't able to put any washers between the inside of the dropout and...

All things being equal then - with the torque arm bolted onto the fender eyelet.. Is there any functional difference between welding the two plates together vs just having a really tight bolt holding the plates together. It doesn't change the length of the lever in any way...

So do you feel welding the two pieces of the torque arm together would have no additional benefit over bolting them?

Agreed! I live a few blocks from Grin (ebikes.ca), and there torque arm kits have the c-washers that clear the lawyers lips. So I have things snugged down about as well as I can. The thread about the testing is very good.

Fair enough! What I visualize in my head (and may not actually be real), is that if I get a fork spinout, and then my axel drops out I could have a pretty major crash. I'd rather NOT crash and if my axel doesn't fall out with a spinout (ie by having a welded torque bar), then I might destroy...

Awesome thanks. My 'BS meter' was going off when I saw the torque washers included in my CNE kit (1000W, 48V, steel fat bike forks). I used two torque arms from Grin instead (the V2 version). I'm still worried actually as the torque arms have a bolt connecting the two pieces... I think I'm...

I think your confusing friction/wedge washers (Nord-Locks) with torque washers (tabbed washers). In particular the cheaper tabbed washers with a minimal fold which I don't see providing any amount of safety!

Hi everyone, I have a pretty basic question here.. I've tried to search for answer but its never really clear... How exactly do torque washers make an ebike safer. I can understand how a torque arm works, because it is bolted or welded to part of your fork. But a torque washer just has a...

Problem has been completely solved with fully seating this connection (thank goodness!).

Yes I can see why, you really do have to push quite firmly to bottom it out.

Oh wow! This is embarassing. Your absolutely right. I never got that connector properly engaged. What I 'thought' was connected, was actually not fully plugged in. It took a pretty good push together, and it bottomed out about 1/4 inch deeper. Now it is very secure. I think we can call this...