$14.99 72v Sunwin Controller

@markz - there's two things that would change the whole ballgame as it relates to these sunwin controllers - 1) the programming tool, 2) schematics or complete board layout diagrams. So if you are going to go through the effort of acquiring some of the PCBs, it would be even more beneficial if you could also acquire the programming tools (or interface details) and the board layout. Those two pieces are just as desirable for the standard controllers as it would be for the sine-wave controllers.
Personally I'm not that interested in the sine-wave controllers, the lower noise at the possible loss of efficiency doesn't appeal to me. But if you set up a bulk buy of any of the normal PCBs and can get the programming/schematics info, I'd buy as many as you want me to!

stated another way, if we had knowledge of every pad and connector on the PCBs and we knew how to program the parameter in firmware, these boards could be as valuable as nearly any controller on the market.
 
After giving it more thought, it seems almost illogical to sell the PCBs without the associated documents. Without them, the manufacturer is basically saying "here's a product that i wont show you how to hook up, i wont provide an operating guide or manual, i wont tell you any of its electrical characteristics, nor even tell you if the PCB works in the way you think it does. maybe it's actually an egg timer. good luck!"
Clonese electronics companies are usually built on a model of not selling 1 or 2 $5 boards to an individual, but rather 5 thousand $5 boards to other companies for finishing. That finishing company will need all the documents and programming software as well
 
I reached yet another hurdle, so I am stuck at the moment on the payment page. I give it a few days, to try and look at it differently, and I usually jump the hurdle. Worked before.

In the meantime, I need to figure out how to install the CA and the USB-TTL wires on the Sunwin controller. The programming wires seem to be easy, hopefully its the same serial cable, but I've been reading up and it seems there are different types and kinds of serial cables. However these chips are the same manufacturer, just a different part #, so maybe less memory, ram or rom.
 
CA wiring is simple. USB will likely be trickier. I will order one soon and post instructions for the CA when I get around to checking it out. People keep beating out my ebay auctions and I am too cheap to pay the buy it now price for something I fully intend to burn up. LOL :twisted:
 
Well my 72v appears as simple as the jumper on the board next to the program header. I assume for 48v I remove all solder.
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Traces are a bit crappy

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Icewrench said:
Just back from my first test run with one of the 72 volt 1000 watt rated controllers from sunwin.
It might be just a little bit under rated. :roll:
With the low speed jumper in place the bike tops out at 20 mph
and wants to lift the front wheel a bit on initial take off.
Switch over to high speed and get ready.
Just over 21mph some sort of boost kicks in and the bike surges ahead pulling even harder.
Topping off the battery now, then it is off for a run past the radar traffic speed sign for a top speed number.
Might remember to look at the ca too.
Awesome stuff. Later.

Oh ya this is driving zipp mans 5 turn mxus 3kw motor powered by 5 amp hours of 18s turnigy 20c cells.

34 mph on the radar speed sign. 80 amp max draw on the ca.
This controller adds 5 mph to this bike.
Same battery, same motor. 5 mph more.
Compared to a 12 fet e crazyman 72 volt 1500 watt controller.
Click to expand...

Hi Sam

Just remembered this post, same controller on a 5T MXUS.

Interested on your impressions for comparison.

Reason, I have a Sunwin 60 volt 1500 running a 4T MXUS and it has similar characteristics, a bit disappointing, but very smooth take off, but it really takes off like a turbo up top.
 
After reading an earlier post on how to properly run the self learn I decided to follow the instructions this time. My first attempt ended with the bike in a heap on the floor and some tire rubber on the carpet. When I picked the bike up and hit the throttle the motor ran backwards, not trusting the self learn any longer I just switched two phase wires and it ran forward nice and smooth. Good enough to test it out. But decided to try the self learn again.
It works as described in the directions.
Time to check no load amp draw so switch to low speed and run it with less than a 2 amp draw tapering off to 1.5 when up to speed. Good enough. Switch to high speed and go again. At high speed when the transition to boost mode kicked in the motor was running fast but not smooth at all. Real jerky and real fast. C A amp reading jumped up to 25 amps with the wheel in the air. Back off the throttle and it calmed down ran it up again and same thing big amp draw jerky and fast. Till it fell out of the drop outs and stopped real quick. You might want to avoid running a high speed no load test with the sunwin controller.
Fixed up the harness and rode a few more days with way too much power on tap. So I have cut one of the three shunts to reduce max power and make the bike slightly less insane to ride. Before it would pull a max of 80 amps now it pulls a max of 67 amps and the boost now comes on mildly at 25mph.
 
I know I might get kicked off the forum for reducing max power but it is a chance I have taken.
It still has the speed but now the front wheel will be on the ground a bit more.
 
My Sunwin mosfet measurements are fine on the black wire but my red wire they are infinitely open. I never even used it yet.

Black and Green 9.31, Yellow 9.43 and Blue is 8.62. While the Red side on all three I get a number ~7 that keeps falling downward. I installed a fresh 9V battery into my DMM. My DMM is on 20k ohm. I'm going to do the same test on my Xie-Chang controller.
 
Seems like the red to phase wonders up to ~14kohm, black to phase is a solid ~9kohm.
My lyen blew a yellow phase mosfet, so all I have left is my Sunwin. Might need to buy a 100V 18fet Sunwin now :)

Single red "Lock" wire is the ignition right?
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=71128&start=100#p1161867
 
Well I scratched off the 72v LVC pads on the pcb and it didn't run 10s. But it did run 15s. Can't test 13s or 14s.

And it's nice and smooth.

Also it runs sensorless!!!
 
Samd said:
Also it runs sensorless!!!
Click to expand...

!!!!!!!!
On the bike mine will run sensorless for a 3 count then cut off, let off throttle and hit it again and the motor wil run for a 3 count cut off and repeat.... lots of tricks in these metal boxes.
Wild stuff.
 
Well that's odd. It now only runs sensorless for about five secs. Then stops.

But it does run on 10s.

More testing needed
 
Oh. Just read the other threads. Yep. Cuts out sensorless after a few secs. Weird.

But runs 42v hoc with none of the LVC pads soldered on the pcb
 
Actually regen works well at very low speeds. This is ideal for cruisers with no rear brake. Several of my other controllers only work above about 15kph. That's a real problem on a cruiser when you come up to the traffic lights fast or go slow down a big hill.
 
Bloody hell. Overspeed switch takes off like a dog with a crab on its balls.
 
Samd said:
Actually regen works well at very low speeds. This is ideal for cruisers with no rear brake. Several of my other controllers only work above about 15kph. That's a real problem on a cruiser when you come up to the traffic lights fast or go slow down a big hill.
Click to expand...

How are the motor temps with the low speed regen? I am curious to see if that will cause more heat than normal. Hopefully mine comes soon so I can do some experimenting as well.
 
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