$14.99 72v Sunwin Controller

So whats the deal then with the LVC, the pads on the printed circuit board list different voltages and if lets say the LVC is 72V then those pads are soldered together is that the case? If you dont want no LVC then you desolder those?
 
markz said:
So whats the deal then with the LVC, the pads on the printed circuit board list different voltages and if lets say the LVC is 72V then those pads are soldered together is that the case? If you dont want no LVC then you desolder those?

If you de-solder one of the 60v, 72v, 84v pads then the controller will default to a LVC for 48v (I believe). Im basing this comment on the way my variable controller is wired.
 
Yeah I noticed its ramping up also. They have an aliexpress shop with higher prices. I bought six more last week.


I actually took a screwdriver and removed the solder and pads from the 72v connection on the board. Now it seems to run a 10s Lipo brick at 41.0volts. I think it may have no LVC at all now. Well to the limits of the semiconductors etc anyways.
 
The LVC for 48v on these controllers should be 42v so at 41v you must be pretty close to it (assuming it's working). 10s hot off the charge is 42v so in theory would run for a short period of time. Did you run it for long at 41v?
 
I didn't notice the price increasing, but the s/h from China is always expensive (or they are just trying to make an extra buck from s/h) or it takes forever for it to arrive. 2 months seems the norm, I can't remember how long my Sunwin controller took, I'm tempted to say a month maybe a tad bit longer.

I am very tempted to buy a 72V and hope that it has 100V capacitors. Im trying to understand why Sunwin has varying prices, with minimal difference (if any) in the wattages. Maybe Sunwin hopes to hit the right wattage number for the customer.
Auction Price - Buy it Now Price
72V 500W $33 - $37
72V 800W $36 - $43
72V 1000W $44 - $47.49 <----3 bids
72V 1500W $53.19
72V 2000W $109.24

84V 1000W $35 - $56
^^^^^^^^^^^^This is my newest purchase which I just upped the price by $4 in the last 5 seconds of the auction. I was scrambling to find an eBay sniper program, Mozilla has an add-on for that called Gixen, which I found on ES search, but my browser had to restart and it took forever, thought I was going to not be able to bid in time. Luckily I did bid in time and the other user s***c did not have a sniper program. $26 + $10 is a good deal I think, paid the same for my 60V 800W.

Looks like Sunwin likes to do auctions every 2 days 5 hours. Sunwin just reduced the total number of controllers on auction, now just 2.

 
I'll give it a run soon Suggs. Perhaps even try a single 5s brick against LVC. I had Mxus wind me up some really fast 28mm motors last year. 600rpm for 36v to go into 20" recumbent wheels. But they really need 50 amps to boogie. This might be my option for a controller.
 
Single 5s brick no good.

10s working fine with no LVC pads soldered.

But no regen back up at 18s.


So I soldered the 84v pads and regen worked fine again on 18s. Which is ok as I have a bms on this battery so HVC will be preserved by the bms.
 
Samd said:
I soldered the 84v pads and regen worked fine again on 18s. Which is ok as I have a bms on this battery so HVC will be preserved by the bms.

Do you have a bms on your Lipo? What's the risk with regen & Lipo without a bms? Getting too much voltage/current going back into the pack?

What's regen like on the Sunwin controller? Is it on/off with the brake lever or is it related to throttle position?
 
No it's single stage regen on anything this cheap. Soldering over two of the three shunts on my 72v 1000w one has taken it from 17a to about 48a.
 
I'm surprised it's programmed for only 17a as standard. Hopefully someone can figure out how to wire in a TTL USB lead and re-programme them.

What current draw are you getting for regen?
 
Programming is easy, there is a row of programmable pads on the pcb. I have not done it yet but it seems easy. Cycle Analyst is what I am figuring out next. Just been to busy cruising the backroads and scoping out property.
 
Just got six more of various sizes. Can anyone link me to a programming link?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Samd said:
Just got six more of various sizes. Can anyone link me to a programming link?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

6 more? :shock:

If it's the same chip as the Infineon's then this may work:
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=7361#p110931
 
Buying from Sunwin seems cheaper then buying just the boards.
I was able to get through to payment page after countless hours of trying and translating, and for a MOQ of 3, its a very high price for s/h. The only reasonable way to get just the boards for under $10 each is to order 20 or more boards. So maybe a handful of people buying 3 to 5 boards each, would net you 5 boards at the same price as a whole controller from Sunwin. Then you could beef up the traces, modify the shunts. I dont know if they come populated with fets, I know the 4110's are pricey.
 
markz said:
Buying from Sunwin seems cheaper then buying just the boards.
I was able to get through to payment page after countless hours of trying and translating, and for a MOQ of 3, its a very high price for s/h. The only reasonable way to get just the boards for under $10 each is to order 20 or more boards. So maybe a handful of people buying 3 to 5 boards each, would net you 5 boards at the same price as a whole controller from Sunwin. Then you could beef up the traces, modify the shunts. I dont know if they come populated with fets, I know the 4110's are pricey.

Have you had any form of communication with them? I'd be surprised if they didn't have someone who understood English within their company.

The boards won't come populated with anything (in my opinion) other than the microchips and tiny resistors that get soldered on by machine so you will need to purchase & install fets, heat sink, caps, large resistors, shunts, wires, traces, connectors and a case. You would also need the programming software to set the controller up.
 
What is the ignition wire? Lock has one wire, Anti-Theft has 3 wires. Also I have 2 small phase wires red and black, what do they do?
 
I've been through the thread and created a spreadsheet to capture the different models in an attempt to figure out which model has which components. This should assist anyone in choosing the model they require.

It would be great to fill in the blanks and correct any parts I've got wrong so please get in touch so I can keep it updated.
 

Attachments

  • Sunwin Controller Spreadsheet.pdf
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I'd potentially be interested in boards -fets / caps / etc.

@markz
I'm not 100% sure what you are referencing, ignition wire on my controllers is a single red wire.. can't remember what it said on it now (I cut it off).. could have been "Lock" though.

Regarding the 2 small phase wires-> Are you referring to your Hall Phase wires? They are Red/Black (Power/Grnd for hall sensors) and Yellow / Green / Blue for the three phases (hall signals). They are all in one connector.
Your "Phase Wires" are much larger, Yel/Grn/Blu for power to each phase, Red / Blk of similar gauge for power to controller.
 
for reference, i de-soldered the lvc pad on one of the 72v controllers and it ran just fine with a 48v pack. so to confirm a question asked earlier, just soldering or desoldering the blobs does allow nearly any battery voltage (as long as the fets are the correct voltage).

for fun, here's a pic of my significant other's bike that has the sunwin controller. I loaded it with a 18s9p 18650 pack and ran it hard for about an hour with no problems. that's around 3100 watts continuous and honestly the hub motor was too hot to touch but the controller was ice cold.

IMG_7939.jpg
 
Don't the capacitors have to be the right voltage too?

I am still waiting on my 84V controller. I still dont know what to do with my Lyen 18fet, might just send it back to him for a repair.
 
Interesting. I have tried telephone calling Bao Er Ren, the sales manager for the 1688 store without success. Their mobile number appears to be disconnected and the landline goes to someone who does not speak english and promptly hung up on me.

Has anyone had any real contact with these guys other than signing into Alibaba China? I cannot understand the sign up process (because I cannot read Chinese and the log in page does not want to translate).
 
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