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2 Speed Xiongda hubmotor
- Thread starter d8veh
- Start date
menvert
100 W
You can do that, but the result will be a slower bike speed.Deesjoint said:
What you want is to order say, a 20" motor and put it in a 24" setup, that will have a higher top speed & lower torque
Though from what I have seen you'd be better off to just order what you want instead... eg: 24" @ 30kmh (especially when we still don't know fully how many different speeds/windings they really produce)
docnjoj
1 GW
Does anyone know when the big Chinese holidays start? I'm wondering if parts will be shipped during them.
Doc
Doc
menvert
100 W
Looks like it's probably 18th to 24th Feb no idea if XD shut down then though.
http://www.timeanddate.com/holidays/china/
http://www.timeanddate.com/holidays/china/
docnjoj
1 GW
Wow! That was fast. All the parts I need to get the motor into running condition just arrived. These folks are very good! I received the rotor with both High and low speed gears, bushings and a key and a Ring gear too. Plus the gooiest white grease I have ever seen in a little bag. All by DHL in about 7 days. These folks obviously want to succeed. I should have the motor running this weekend.otherDoc
cjh
100 W
That's good service! 8)
Bikengineer
10 mW
Forgive me if already asked but topic is 28 pages long.
I have an Electra Townie with dropout spacing of 135mm, keen to use one of these Xiongda rear hubs and make a poor mans Townie GO. Problem is the bike has a coaster brake, no v brakes tabs, no disc tabs which suggests the drum brake version maybe the ticket BUT I've read here it's 166mm wide and suitable for fat bikes.
I don't want to spread/set an aluminium frame, has anyone handled the drum brake version? Can it be installed on a standard 135mm dropout?
Any suggestions on using the Xiongda hub in rear and getting a rear brake?
I have an Electra Townie with dropout spacing of 135mm, keen to use one of these Xiongda rear hubs and make a poor mans Townie GO. Problem is the bike has a coaster brake, no v brakes tabs, no disc tabs which suggests the drum brake version maybe the ticket BUT I've read here it's 166mm wide and suitable for fat bikes.
I don't want to spread/set an aluminium frame, has anyone handled the drum brake version? Can it be installed on a standard 135mm dropout?
Any suggestions on using the Xiongda hub in rear and getting a rear brake?
The standard disc version is 142mm. You can see that the drum brake version is wider. It's a tight squeeze to get the 142mm one in 135mm drop-outs. I can't see that a drum brake one would fit.
Why don't you just get a different donor bike? A used similar one won't cost much from Ebay, Gumtree or Craigs list.
Why don't you just get a different donor bike? A used similar one won't cost much from Ebay, Gumtree or Craigs list.
leelorr
100 W
Dv8eh,
A few weeks ago I think you mentioned that you knew someone that was going to see the factory reps and that they would ask if there any plans for a higher wattage motor coming out. Have you heard anything?
A few weeks ago I think you mentioned that you knew someone that was going to see the factory reps and that they would ask if there any plans for a higher wattage motor coming out. Have you heard anything?
That's right. He had a lot of trouble communicating with them. They are trying to develop bigger versions and narrower ones, but there's nothing iminent, unfortunately. Not a lot came from the meeting. It was just a repeat of what we already know.leelorr said:
I don't think it would mke any sense to do that. This motor is an alternative to a mid drive. What it's good for is to get you round at speeds up to about 20mph while pedalling. Then, when you get a very steep hill, it can use the low gear to winch you up at low speed. It can go right down to about 4mph and still be relatively efficient when climbing. The 36v one at 15A can get you up a 25% hill with a bit of pedalling. The 48v one can do 30% and more. That's with a 100kg rider. If you're lighter it'll perform better.craiggor said:
panurge
10 kW
Agreed....although the retro-direct concept would works perfectly even for middrives, the XD is not the right motor for that.....it would make no sense to put a 3+Kg hubmotor of that low power like the XD as midmotor.d8veh said:
I think separated middrives would mostly take advantages from a retro-direct setup, but than, a standalone gearbox should be the more sensible approach....
For a CrankDrive, where you already have gears to play with, the concept is not useful, maybe combining the 2 imputs (pedal and motor) before of a 2 speed gearbox at the right rpm/cadence ratio and go single speed to the wheel could be an interesting option, although not properly a crankdrive....but with a retrodirect 2 speed concept you would have to pedal backwards at one speed, and the dragging side and freewheel headache, are still there
.
docnjoj
1 GW
OK I am about to rebuild my 2 speed and the first question is: How do I remove the alloy plate with the gears mounted on it. It is supposed to have a key, and I can see the keyway on the new gearplate, but it does not show up on the broken gear one that is in the motor now. My guess is a gear puller, and of course I can't find mine so is there an alternative tool? to pull or pry out the gearplate?
otherDoc
otherDoc
docnjoj
1 GW
Well the motor is mostly back together, but I am not sure about the number of shims and I unfortunately nicked a wire. That could be interesting since I'll bet no one has rewired one of these and it does not look like fun. I am hoping that a squirt of silicone bath caulking will help, since I don't think I nicked 2 wires. (Yes of course the nick was right at the end of the axle!) I did get a puller from the auto supply store (only 18 bucks) and I dont think i could have opened it without the puller. Will close it up and try it ASAP.
Here goes nothing.
otherDoc
Here goes nothing.
otherDoc
docnjoj
1 GW
I got a white bag of grease like I have never seen. It is not slippery! Stay tuned.
otherDoc
otherDoc
cwah
100 MW
Anyone tried to feed 48V 20A on this motor? I'm doing this on my q100H and it's great. But sometime I'd like more torque.
A bit more torque and keeping the 25mph max speed I have from my q100H would be perfect
A bit more torque and keeping the 25mph max speed I have from my q100H would be perfect
menvert
100 W
Oh no, that's tragic, I hope it can be recovered.docnjoj said:
cwah said:
The 48v setup should be able to achieve that with the right windings. With a 36v setup ramped up that much, I think it wouldn't last so long.
You'd then be able to do something like 12mph in Low, but I'd suspect 25mph on anything except flat is a bit optimistic, I get about 31mph on flat when I use my approx 42v battery on a 36v 15A setup.
Of course it all depends on many factors - weight, windings, how much you pedal PAS or accel.
cwah
100 MW
42v battery? how many s? If I use 48v battery on 36v controller it'd just blow I suppose?
menvert
100 W
'it's complicated'cwah said:
I have a 12s 36v liFe pack (these sit @~ 39.6v) and I sometimes add a Lipo (1s) in series for a speed boost (an extra 3.8v or so) Under moderate load tends to be about 42v whereas a 48v 13s Lipo (from my research, I don't have one) will run between 48.1 and 54.6v depending on the discharge
Edit: Ah yeah, when I suggested the 13s 48v LiPo on a 36v controller people on this thread did suggest it's likely to kill the controller, but will probably be okay with a 12s lipo
docnjoj
1 GW
menvert said:
Yona just emailed me that it is grease! I have never seen grease that looks like bathtub caulk.
I'll finish the motor tomorrow and test.
otherDoc
cwah
100 MW
menvert said:'it's complicated'cwah said:
Under moderate load tends to be about 42v whereas a 48v 13s Lipo (from my research, I don't have one) will run between 48.1 and 54.6v depending on the discharge
Edit: Ah yeah, when I suggested the 13s 48v LiPo on a 36v controller people on this thread did suggest it's likely to kill the controller, but will probably be okay with a 12s lipo
Thanks. Looking for someone who tries 48v on the controller lol
I tried 12S on my last 36v controller. It worked fine.
Xiongda offer two controllers. The Li Shui has the manual change switch. I have the Kunteng Sinewave 48v one, which only auto-changes on level 5. Level 6 is fixed low gear. On level 5, it has plenty of power, so it only changes down on very steep hills. I'm quite heavy. With you on it, Cwah, I can't see it ever changing down, so it doesn't make any sense to get this motor other than for its quietness. You should try the Q128H, which is like a bigger version of the Q100H, so it should have more torque and the same speed. The 48v Xiongda does about 23mph on the road.
Xiongda offer two controllers. The Li Shui has the manual change switch. I have the Kunteng Sinewave 48v one, which only auto-changes on level 5. Level 6 is fixed low gear. On level 5, it has plenty of power, so it only changes down on very steep hills. I'm quite heavy. With you on it, Cwah, I can't see it ever changing down, so it doesn't make any sense to get this motor other than for its quietness. You should try the Q128H, which is like a bigger version of the Q100H, so it should have more torque and the same speed. The 48v Xiongda does about 23mph on the road.
