You could do that but then you would have no increase in strength over standard, people have folded over cheap chainrings on 3kw, they are not meant for that power on high load, i think it was John Bozi on his LR kit. That's why the Cyclone ones are so thick to handle the load and lifetime .
2014 Specialized Stumpjumper & Luna Cyclone 3000w
- Thread starter Phife
- Start date
You could do that but then you would have no increase in strength over standard, people have folded over cheap chainrings on 3kw, they are not meant for that power on high load, i think it was John Bozi on his LR kit. That's why the Cyclone ones are so thick to handle the load and lifetime .
Here is a new pic. The spider is mounted on the left side of the freewheel. The 46T chainring is on the right side of the spider and the other chainring 38T is on the other side. I don't use spacers any more, the spider is thick enough. Since the freewheel is threaded (stock freewheel) the 5 bolts are screwed from the left side so I don't need to use additional nuts.
The 38T chainring is aligned with the 3rd smallest sprocket on my cassette. Not ideal since I will most of the time use the bigger one. I'll see if additional spacers are needed.
I am pretty confident about the aluminum chainring lifetime. Blackspire are known for their heavy duty stuff. 35 (over 46) teeth are sharing the torque. I'll let you know if it wears out too fast. I only ride 15miles a week so it shouldn't be an issue for me. Kranked has been using the exact same chainring for a while so I figured it was good stuff (although they probably run half of the power...)
The 38T chainring is aligned with the 3rd smallest sprocket on my cassette. Not ideal since I will most of the time use the bigger one. I'll see if additional spacers are needed.
I am pretty confident about the aluminum chainring lifetime. Blackspire are known for their heavy duty stuff. 35 (over 46) teeth are sharing the torque. I'll let you know if it wears out too fast. I only ride 15miles a week so it shouldn't be an issue for me. Kranked has been using the exact same chainring for a while so I figured it was good stuff (although they probably run half of the power...)
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gman1971
10 kW
- Joined
- Oct 17, 2015
- Messages
- 976
Remi812 said:The Bluetooth controller feels exactly the same as the stock one but with more torque. I haven't played much with the settings though.
Regarding my chain skipping tooth issue, it is all fixed now. I went with a bigger chainring, replaced the chain and cassette, and it is all smooth now
I also saved some weight by replacing the stock steel chainring and it looks so much better now !
I bought the aluminum spider from SBP and it is light and robust. The chain guard was to me ugly and kinda useless.
Love how you hid the controller under the motor, well done.
G.
DingusMcGee
10 kW
gman1971 wrote:
Are you kidding?, "...well done"?
I think approving this location[below the motor] is very poor advise:
For trail riding this is about the worst place a controller could be mounted. The case of the controller would be subject to getting bent from hitting rocks [which could ruin its end seals] and the wiring would get a heavy dose of water from the tires splashing mineral laden water on the cases's plugs. Such wet plugs occasionally short circuit control wires and you get unwanted motor responses.
Are you kidding?, "...well done"?
I think approving this location[below the motor] is very poor advise:
For trail riding this is about the worst place a controller could be mounted. The case of the controller would be subject to getting bent from hitting rocks [which could ruin its end seals] and the wiring would get a heavy dose of water from the tires splashing mineral laden water on the cases's plugs. Such wet plugs occasionally short circuit control wires and you get unwanted motor responses.
i like that position under the bracket as it makes the neatest location, anywhere else and you will have long cables runs a big UGLY box controller visible, under their its mostly not visible.
Regardless i don't think many people do rock crawling ! where this may be a real issue... not trail riding. even in that case i would think every rider would 100% avoid trying to get a big knock under the frame as the controller is the least of your problems ! in fact being their it adds more protection and possibly prevent bending the downtube or the chainwheeels in a big knock! so the controller in that spot makes no difference the issue as the main thing is you wouldnt want to get a big knock in that area as you will damage something else regardless.....
if you are feeling anal then you could add a bashguard their for more piece of mind, which would also stop the water splash also and seal up the cables but i don't think this is needed as i have seen lots of people put their controllers under their.
elementary
10 W
Based on outstanding performance and proven strength on BMX bikes, half link primary chains appear to be the best option for Cyclone 3000w...
Not many miles and so far, but half-link chains seem smoother running than standard bicycle chain
Not many miles and so far, but half-link chains seem smoother running than standard bicycle chain
DingusMcGee
10 kW
Alex07,
your arguments are BS -- no offload vehicle manufacturer puts any of their electronic control equipment under the floor so it can rub on the ground.
It seems you speak from so little experience. My motor's lower fins are bent flat from hitting rocks and pressing the frame into fallen logs I ride over. Maybe you do easy trails?, excuse me paths. For your lack of comparative assessment ability the controller case damages to leaking far more easily than the BB or down tube fail after a mild flattening. A flattened down tube houses no electronic components and usually still works as designed when it get a flat spot -- I have some flat spots on mine. But wallow in the stupid-ness of your counter arguments and your poor choice of controller placement for a trail bike.
Water will run down onto any open area on the suggested controller case cover and if the water contains minerals you get a short circuit at the plug.
The motors are somewhat cheaper than the bike frames I run and they make an adequate skid plate.
your arguments are BS -- no offload vehicle manufacturer puts any of their electronic control equipment under the floor so it can rub on the ground.
It seems you speak from so little experience. My motor's lower fins are bent flat from hitting rocks and pressing the frame into fallen logs I ride over. Maybe you do easy trails?, excuse me paths. For your lack of comparative assessment ability the controller case damages to leaking far more easily than the BB or down tube fail after a mild flattening. A flattened down tube houses no electronic components and usually still works as designed when it get a flat spot -- I have some flat spots on mine. But wallow in the stupid-ness of your counter arguments and your poor choice of controller placement for a trail bike.
Water will run down onto any open area on the suggested controller case cover and if the water contains minerals you get a short circuit at the plug.
The motors are somewhat cheaper than the bike frames I run and they make an adequate skid plate.
Hi so you had your controller their but did you have any actual problems with it their ???Ok a bit of mud here or their wont affect anything. But did it fail or stop working ever ? what controller did you have as not all controllers are as waterproof as another?
If you are so worried Dingus about breaking a seal on the controller why are you so happy to use the motor as a bashguard ? as the same issue applies if you hit the motor you will break the seal on the motor and get water inside or bend the brackets out of alignment and get derailments... issue being you dont want to bash the bike in this area on ANY of the parts ! the controller is not special exemption, on the frame it will weaken the downtube if you crush it, motor it will crack the seal or motor and same for controller.. so either put a bashguard on if you plan to go rock crawling. or like most people just ride normaly and don't use your bike as a battering ram lol
I had the aft mid drive which mounts their controller in that location but already had a cover. It never failed but at end of rides the cover was pretty filthy. It was Kelly controller.
I actually moved it from bottom for this reason. Then moved it back for stealth reasons. I'm just saying that spot is probably the area that will get the dirtiest. If u want to have it there, put something to prevent the splash and dirt getting on the controller and seal the controller also.
It does depend on controller how well it sealed like u said. Plenty of integrated controllers in that location like the Bafangs. The bafangs also are low and susceptible to hitting rocks and logs. I just don't ride anything over certain height. I get off the bike.
I actually moved it from bottom for this reason. Then moved it back for stealth reasons. I'm just saying that spot is probably the area that will get the dirtiest. If u want to have it there, put something to prevent the splash and dirt getting on the controller and seal the controller also.
It does depend on controller how well it sealed like u said. Plenty of integrated controllers in that location like the Bafangs. The bafangs also are low and susceptible to hitting rocks and logs. I just don't ride anything over certain height. I get off the bike.
ScooterMan101
1 MW
What Chainrings ( on the Crank ) and sprocket ( on the Cyclone ) work with Half Link Chain's ?
are the BMX Half Link Chains like the spacing of regular bike 8 speed chains ?
I see they are 1/8 " , but don't know what regular 8 speed and 9 speed chains are .
are the BMX Half Link Chains like the spacing of regular bike 8 speed chains ?
I see they are 1/8 " , but don't know what regular 8 speed and 9 speed chains are .
elementary said:
DingusMcGee
10 kW
Alex07,
your lack of observation ability is apparent. The thick grove fitted motor caps are held onto the solid steel stator frame with 6 mm allen bolts while the controller sheet metal end caps with gaskets are fastened to the alum controller shell with 4 little sheet metal screws. Anyone who has done some metal work could visually access that the controller seal and shell stability are orders of magnitude more fragile than the motor seal/caps/stator. As I say, from experience, the motor frame et al is strong enough to be a skid plate and it is likely to retain water sealing ability from some heavy belly hits.
Yet you have conceded my point of the controller weakness & fragileness by saying add a bashgaurd and cover thing to prevent bending & wetting. Yet you still ramble.
It sounds like rather than getting some rock crawling travel when you trail & xc ride, you ride your toy on groomed paths so as not to bump the under belly placed controller? Fine. Some of us here attempt more skilled riding challenges than groomed path riding. My statement that belly mounting the controller is a poor location applies obviously only to us that do such difficult skilled riding.
How about dropping into a retail dirt bike shop and asking them to put the ignition system under the skid plate on such and such a bike you want to buy? Seriously, you would be the laughing stock of the shop. Maybe you could tell them you want a "cutie" bike?
your lack of observation ability is apparent. The thick grove fitted motor caps are held onto the solid steel stator frame with 6 mm allen bolts while the controller sheet metal end caps with gaskets are fastened to the alum controller shell with 4 little sheet metal screws. Anyone who has done some metal work could visually access that the controller seal and shell stability are orders of magnitude more fragile than the motor seal/caps/stator. As I say, from experience, the motor frame et al is strong enough to be a skid plate and it is likely to retain water sealing ability from some heavy belly hits.
Yet you have conceded my point of the controller weakness & fragileness by saying add a bashgaurd and cover thing to prevent bending & wetting. Yet you still ramble.
It sounds like rather than getting some rock crawling travel when you trail & xc ride, you ride your toy on groomed paths so as not to bump the under belly placed controller? Fine. Some of us here attempt more skilled riding challenges than groomed path riding. My statement that belly mounting the controller is a poor location applies obviously only to us that do such difficult skilled riding.
How about dropping into a retail dirt bike shop and asking them to put the ignition system under the skid plate on such and such a bike you want to buy? Seriously, you would be the laughing stock of the shop. Maybe you could tell them you want a "cutie" bike?
juanfeli
100 W
Half links chains make sense for bikes without tensioner or derailleur so you can adjust de chaistays length with horizontal dropouts an play with different chairings and rear sprockets. Like in bmx or single speeds.
Half links strech more an quicker than regular ones.
I recommend kmc z610, which is what trial riders use.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Half links strech more an quicker than regular ones.
I recommend kmc z610, which is what trial riders use.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I think mounting the controller horizontally under the bike is asking for trouble. Several Cyclone vendors tell me they have found the controller to be many times more likely to fail than the motor. The motor has no fragile components other than the halls. The motor case is much thicker than the controller case. Also, most controller manufacturers recommend mounting controllers at an angle with the cables facing downward, so moisture can't seep in around the wires. I certainly wouldn't risk riding in the rain with this mounting solution.
Thanks Drew that's what i suspected ! if it is done properly with a covers/guards and quality controllers like the kelly or phase runner, they are sealed better and made stronger you will have no problems with that location and it looks a lot better and stealthier
SO Dingus the tightwad doesn't get confused don't do this with your $10 Cyclone controller or assume it cannot be done with any controller.... because of such crap parts with bad design you use doesn't translate to ALL.
I have a Phaserunner. I sure as hell would not put a $300 controller down there to get the shit kicked out of it and covered in mud so it can't dissipate heat. Not to mention moisture in all the connectors. Even an expensive controller has to make electrical connections. Wiring down there is much more vulnerable. I managed to rip the speed sensor cable completely off my BBSHD when riding a rocky trail.
drew12345: "I actually moved it from bottom for this reason. Then moved it back for stealth reasons"
??????? The Cyclone 3000 is a great product. But there is nothing stealthy about a Cyclone. They are very noisy and visually imposing.
drew12345: "I actually moved it from bottom for this reason. Then moved it back for stealth reasons"
??????? The Cyclone 3000 is a great product. But there is nothing stealthy about a Cyclone. They are very noisy and visually imposing.
The mini cyclone is a lot smaller and less visually imposing than the C3000w don't confuse them. But i agree that having a controller mounted on the bike with long cable runs will make it even less stealthier and more "Illegal" looking and asking for trouble. i don't know what the fuss about bottom mount controllers is, after all The BBSHD has the controller in that location and its one of the most common kits out their and yes obviously it looks the neatest and less visually imposing . So they they have obviously also dealt with the water issues like Drews bottom mount kelly.
It is definitely not the best place to mount the cyclone controller. It is unfortunately not waterproof and I had to replace it twice because of water intrusion. I think water found its way to the controller after I washed the bike so I am being more careful and so far it has never happened again. I never hit anything but I am not saying it can't happen. Good thing this controller is cheap
Why do you ASSUME: " So they they have obviously also dealt with the water issues like Drews bottom mount kelly."
BBSHD controller is in a heavy metal case and the entire controller is potted in silicone rubber for moisture protection. The Cyclone controller is in a light case with no potting and moisture protection. The BBSHD has no connections down there to be corrupted by moisture. The BBSHD connections are moved upward to the wiring harness. The Kelley has no moisture protections and is not potted in silicone rubber and has electrical connections close to the controller that can be contaminated by moisture and dirt.
BBSHD controller is in a heavy metal case and the entire controller is potted in silicone rubber for moisture protection. The Cyclone controller is in a light case with no potting and moisture protection. The BBSHD has no connections down there to be corrupted by moisture. The BBSHD connections are moved upward to the wiring harness. The Kelley has no moisture protections and is not potted in silicone rubber and has electrical connections close to the controller that can be contaminated by moisture and dirt.
Dogboy1200
100 W
I have a Kelly controller. The waterproofing option in which they pot the whole inside was $9.sather said:
DingusMcGee
10 kW
Dogboy,
so does the $9 Kelly waterproofing job make it stronger so as take some big hits?
so does the $9 Kelly waterproofing job make it stronger so as take some big hits?
Even if you pot the Kelly you still have all the plug in connectors for the halls, phase wires, throttle, ebrakes, pedal assist, dashboard etc. These connectors have no provision to keep out water and dirt.
My Phaserunner is potted but the CycleAnalyst connector and throttle connector are 4 inches from the controller. They are normal plug in connectors with no provision to keep out water or dirt.
The mini Cyclone may be physically smaller than the C3000 but it is much more noisy because of its metal planetary gears. And the C3000 is much noisier than the BBSHD.
My Phaserunner is potted but the CycleAnalyst connector and throttle connector are 4 inches from the controller. They are normal plug in connectors with no provision to keep out water or dirt.
The mini Cyclone may be physically smaller than the C3000 but it is much more noisy because of its metal planetary gears. And the C3000 is much noisier than the BBSHD.
DingusMcGee
10 kW
Once a little highway salt water solution burns up the 5v power supply of your controller ....
You retards will likely still be saying, "But is looks so cute and stealthy under the BB"...
Some highway salt water destroyed the 5v power supply of my 132v Lyen controller. And you know a waterproof Kelly controller likely would have suffered the same fate --- uncovered plugs.
There is no way for the stupid hear good advise ---
You retards will likely still be saying, "But is looks so cute and stealthy under the BB"...
Some highway salt water destroyed the 5v power supply of my 132v Lyen controller. And you know a waterproof Kelly controller likely would have suffered the same fate --- uncovered plugs.
There is no way for the stupid hear good advise ---
Whenever i have electrical connections outdoors i spray long lasting corrosion inhibitor on the contacts and cover them with the extra wide electrical tape to keep them nice an dry. Don't assume everyone is a retard like you dingus its not rocket science if you do it properly . So no mounting your $10 controller with no corrosion protection on the plugs is not the same thing so don't think it cannot be done just because you can't.
