2018 Nukeproof Scout 27.5 TSDZ2B build

skyriverxlt

10 µW
Joined
Aug 18, 2023
Messages
5
Location
Washington
Hi there,
New to the forum and thank you for all the info! I used this forum quite a bit to glean a lot of knowledge.

I own a 2018 Nukeproof Scout 27.5 Sport that I really enjoy. I'm almost 6'4" and have a long back. The XL frame and slack geometry makes me very confident when riding. I had an old FSR from the 90s, without a dropper and might as well named it "Ejector Seat". Modern slack geometry is the way to go if you're tall.
I'm also 55 and the legs just don't have as much juice as even 5 years ago. And...I mostly ride trails from my house. Well, I live on a hill so all our trails are fun downhills or sucky, granny gear uphill. We have some flat stuff too, but most of the mileage loops will require to go back up at least twice. I don't mind uphill in granny, but the heart rate is more of a real concern these days. I rode a Trek Verve 2+ with the Bosch Active line torque sensing motor while on vacation and that convinced me I wanted that feeling of assistance. And I didn't want to pay for a Bosch so I landed on the Tongsheng TSDZ2B.

Bought the TSDZ2B 48V and a 48v 10Ah (200W-800W) Hailong Triangle battery.
I wanted to keep things as light as possible for the trail. My rides are usually 4-6 miles. Development at the downhill side of our area also means I cannot exit the area to the downhill and take the more gradual road back home. So now you have to ride back up granny gear hills. This should help immensely. I've already taken it down the street and back a few times and even in ECO mode it's a relief. Tour mode makes me feels bionic and those granny hills will now be 2nd, 3rd or even 4th gear hills. My rides should be more like 8-10 miles now.

Install challenges-
Wide chainstay since my bike has 27.5 x 2.6" tires and could probably handle 2.8 or even 3.
I had to shave off a fair amount on the non-drive side bottom bracket since the motor cover was hitting the chainstay. I had to put all the spacers that come with the kit, plus the plastic/graphite one off my Nukeproof Neutron BB. This means the drive side is definitely farther left (when on the bike) than before, but not terrible and actually not noticeable when pedaling. I only had room for the locknut so I didn't use the motor bracket mount thingy.
I found a few guys out there that build a fair amount of hardtails and they simply put the motor in the most forward position and only use the locknut. Many of their bikes have big chainstays like mine. Many modern mtbs do now, especially 2.5"-3" tire hardtails. The motor will want to go forward anyway. Meaning, the power of the motor pulling the chain will naturally push the motor to the front. I wanted it mounted up against the front down tube anyway so it works out. I also didn't install the chainstay mount. That thing is honestly sort of joke and my chainstay is too wide anyway. I feel pretty confident that the motor will stay put. We'll see. I know I'll have to snug the locknut down often. It doesn't have any thread-locker yet, but I plan to do that once I've ridden it a couple times.

Cable management was easy and I'm glad I got the VLCD5 display since my 55 year old eyes don't like reading small things up close.

Motor clearance is great. For a very slack, "low-slung" hardtail I still have a full 8" of clearance. I'm very happy with that.

And the motor went on over my dropper cable that is internal, but then comes out and routes under the BB. And it works perfectly fine, just as before the install. Very nice.

I'll report back after a few rides. For now, she's still purty and now even more fun!

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And I still have room for my super tanker Zags water bottle!

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Thanks,
Stacy
 
The maiden voyage was 6.5 miles of fun! The left crank came loose just like I've read happens. Had the motor in ECO or Tour most of the ride. Only hit Speed mode on one hill for about 2 minutes. Motor was warm after the biggest climb, but I could hold my hand to it no problem. It definitely likes a good cadence. I can see if you torque on it hard in a high gear it probably starts getting hot. I'm not too worried since that was on the 42T and didn't even use 1st, 2nd or 3rd. Once I get the 34T I'll be able to use those gears and stay in the right cadence.

I'm impressed actually. It was really fun.
 
Let us know if (and I'm guessing when) you hit that low-slung motor with an obstacle. I've done it exactly once so far up a 2 1/2 foot dry wash, was a bit surprised it happened but the motor was fine. And my motor is up about 4 inches more than yours. It's going to happen, the question is when and how hard will it get hit. This is why I could not get a Bafang or Tongsheng motor that's fixed to the chainring spider, because of the frame ending up pointing the motor down, but maybe you'll be OK.
 
Yeah, and hopefully not while bombing downhill. I kicked up a golf ball sized rock while doing about 20 that clanged off the motor. No damage.
Being a hardtail with a short chainstay, I worry less about hitting pedals or the BB than with my old suspended FSR. One of the benefits of a hardtail. In fact, with 170 cranks I rarely strike the pedals and have only bottomed out on logs. I won't be sending over those with the motor on.

At 12" with a motor, do you have a DH bike? What bike & motor do you have?
 
I've had a couple folks reach out to me on this so I'll do a follow-up report.
The good-
- This bike is even more fun to ride now than before! And if you've ridden a Scout you know that's a lot of fun!
- My granny gear 2-3mph hills are now 4th gear 7-9mph hills. It's crazy how much assistance it gives when you need it.
- Battery life on my 48v 10Ah (200W-800W) Hailong Triangle battery has been impressive.
- Has allowed me to bike into a couple of my favorite fishing holes. I can cover so much ground so quickly without being soaked in sweat when I reach my destination. Just watch out for Bighorn sheep when you're cruising at 18mph!
- I have not experienced any overheating issues. My longest ride has only been about 8 miles, but that was with some very steep hills, pulling 4th gear on Speed (3th highest) mode. It was about 75 F that day so not hot, but also not cool. The uphill usually means I'm going right back down a hill so that must give sufficient time for cooling.
- The type of torque-sensing power has been what I was hoping for.
- I really like the VLCD5 display. It's big enough for my now 56 yr old eyes, but not too big. It's nice to finally know how fast I'm going. As a long-time enduro dirt biker it sort of drove me crazy not having at least an odometer. Sure, I have Strava, but an odo & speedo is just easier for a variety of reasons.

The bad-
- the install challenges I reported in the initial post. They are not for the faint of heart.
- Chain line is off by quite a bit. I can't use 1st-3rd gears. The lowest gear I can use with current setup is 4th. 2.4+ tire bikes will always have this challenge because of the big chain stays.
- trashed my deraileur because I shifted into 2nd or 3rd in a panic for a very steep climb. I knew I shouldn't do this, but muscle memory took over and whack! That was a long walk home. I have replaced the deraileur and have also put a piece of black tape on my shifter indicator. I stop shifting down when I can no longer see the indicator. It's worked pretty well so far.
I have looked at various chain rings to combat this. There are some you can buy for the older TSDZ2, but not the TSDZ2B.

Even with the challenges and the bad chain line issue, I'm 100% glad I went for it.
 
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It sounds like you’ve installed the motor without the non-drive side mounting bracket. I would have thought that the bracket was an essential part . If I was you I’d be considering ‘adjusting’ the drive side chain stay with a hammer and drift . I know it sounds brutal , but it works . You can gain 3 to 5mm . Pedals more central . a better chain line and a properly supported motor .



BTW – your bike looks great .
 

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10mm offset chainring for TSDZ2B - 5mm more than standard
Thanks. Is this the one that AliExpress sells? That's the only place I see it. I hate buying from them, but I may have to pull the string on that one.

And thanks for the suggestion, but there's no way I feel comfortable taking a hammer and drift to my chain stay. Cutting the chain guides off and shaving down the BB was enough for me.
So far, the bracket has not been essential. I've checked the lockring a few times and it has not moved. Motor hasn't moved. Not to say it won't some day, but for the number of rides I have in I'm quite pleased. If I have to tighten once or twice a season then I'm fine with that.

Thanks!
 
I bought one of those chain rings from ebikestuff.eu because I don’t like buying from AE either .

Yep , I hear you . Taking a hammer to a bike frame isn’t for everyone . A chain stay dimple tool is probably a better option .
 

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