cwah
100 MW
Created another thread for that.
flez1966 said:Damn...
When i found this thread I thought I had found the answers!
my controller is a chip/pcb by bolee and then its populated with fets elsewhere and sold, seems to match 90% of whats in this thread but.........
on the bench its running fine, take it out and after 10-15 seconds it trips out.. this 10-15 seconds gets shorter and shorter till its like only 3-5 seconds, and I get 7 flashes.....
oh well.....
Paul.............D said:flez1966 said:Damn...
When i found this thread I thought I had found the answers!
my controller is a chip/pcb by bolee and then its populated with fets elsewhere and sold, seems to match 90% of whats in this thread but.........
on the bench its running fine, take it out and after 10-15 seconds it trips out.. this 10-15 seconds gets shorter and shorter till its like only 3-5 seconds, and I get 7 flashes.....
oh well.....
Check your battery voltage to make sure it is not sagging under load to low voltage cut off.
Paul
AFAIK, all controllers use a small amount of power when left connected to the battery. They're just like any other electronic device you have in the house. Left plugged in they draw a minimal amount of power. I always disconnect one side when I get off the bike for more than a few minutes. It doesn't use much, but will ruin your battery by draining it to 0V over time.knighty said:just checking it's ok to leave these controllers connected 24/7 and turn them on/off with the ignition wire/switch...
no power drain etc... ??
wesnewell said:knighty said:It doesn't use much, but will ruin your battery by draining it to 0V over time.
kentlim26 said:I think it advice better don't. Just add a power switch Box. Just off it !. By just going to connect power all the way to controller, I think the controller will have some Heat. can try for few hours and see , if the controller stay hot or not. as for me, i will not do that. So far, i have never read anyone says " I put my power to the controller 24/7.. will this really damage the caps silently. ? or will it really blow? Must see who has done that ?
kentlim26 said:thanks. i solve the in rush current by going throu a resistor 10watt 100ohm and you will see spark, noise will be entire gone. 48v ~ 65v it works. i have also try 98v throu a 10watt 200ohm, i think the spark will be gone, but this i haven't find out yet. some will use mosfets and build a circuit to the controller, soft switch. i hope you can try to find this out regarding about this 10watts 100ohm, or 200ohm, and there i build inside a switch Box no2. is a main power into the controller = hence No more in rush current
ken
kentlim26 said:i really did that , Half eye closed..
flez1966 said:have you opened this controller and seen what part number is on the mosfets, and what voltage caps its fitted with?kentlim26 said:i really did that , Half eye closed..
kentlim26 said:I haven't open these controller. i bought the controller from Greentime, 18fets 4110, 60amps . I can trust 100% is very likely a geninue fets 4110 from greentime. They are own and tested by respected members methods, John in CR. my caps is likely to be 100v, but my request for this controller must able to work for 16cells ~ 24cells. 48v ~ 100v. i have tested on 48v run, the pick up power is good, top speed is only 53.3km/h, my best choice speed for now i think is still 55km/h 35mph - fast and is safe.
wesnewell said:If you have a GM motor (HBS-xxVxxxxW) then you have the thick (phase) wires wrong. They should be the same as the thin (hall) wires.
(thin)
red to red
black to black
green to yellow
yellow to green
blue to blue
(thick)
blue to blue
green to yellow
yellow to green